Yamaha 4 stroke IAC or ISC Valve aka mitsubishi IAC

[mokaction]

Well this is the 4th ISC valve I have replaced in 10 years in my f200txra. Just purchased another ICS yesterday from boats.net, there goes another $350 bucks.

I took the old one and pulled it apart.

There is only a few parts..

On this one it turned out that the Bearing on the magnet is bad and frozen up. (The think that is on your right side of the picture) That is probably what is cause the ISC/IAC to stick.

Attached are 4 pictures:

1. Shows the IAC taken apart
2. I put the center shaft together, and you can see how the bearing is set
3. IAC together
4. ebay of a Mitsubishi Eclipse IAC/ISC valve

I started doing some research on this ISC and found out that it is actually a Mitsubishi IAC valve, they are close to the same one in a Mitsubishi 1999 to 2004 Eclipse.

Picture also attached and sells for around $15 to $70 on ebay and most automotive shops.

Why the hell do they do that, when it is Marine parts they add on another 500% to the price??

I have never seen one of these taken apart so I thought I would post this. Also has anyone ever tried putting a IAC from a Mitsubishi car and put it into there 4 stoke Yamaha's??

[boscoe99]

For 39 bucks I would try it and see.

Mitsubishi makes most of the Yamaha electrics.

[mokaction]

For 39 bucks I would try it and see.

Mitsubishi makes most of the Yamaha electrics.

LOL.. Yes I was thinking that, but right now I am so broke, maybe next month. I have found them for a cheap as $15.00.

I have found a universal low pressure pump that is e10 compatible for only $115.00 at my local part store, instead of $500.00 works well and also exact copy of: 69J-24410-02-00

Been running in my boat for a while and has not froze up yet, I have replace the low pressure fuel pump twice before that with yamaha parts and the yamaha parts keep going bad.

Picture below of new fuel pump..

[boscoe99]

The prices charged by Yamaha USA are absurd.

[rodbolt17]

could be Volvo.

[mokaction]

could be Volvo.

LOL, I wish, turns out they are Mitsubishi IAC valves, just with a different orifice in the bottom.

I am going over to the Mitsubishi dealer tomorrow and see if they have a match.

[scottcmb1965]

Im also searching different avenues for sensors and control valves for the two F150's that I am currently fully rebuilding. I have found this so far for the oil pressure sensor on the F150's...... matches the numbers that are on the genuine sensor itself Pressure Sensor Pressure Switch Pressure Valve Pressure Control Valve for 42CP2-9

it is identical and a hell of a lot cheaper than what Yamaha want for this particular part. My next search is the ISC and MAP sensors..... will post up what I find.

Cheers
Scotty

[mokaction]

Im also searching different avenues for sensors and control valves for the two F150's that I am currently fully rebuilding. I have found this so far for the oil pressure sensor on the F150's...... matches the numbers that are on the genuine sensor itself Pressure Sensor Pressure Switch Pressure Valve Pressure Control Valve for 42CP2-9

it is identical and a hell of a lot cheaper than what Yamaha want for this particular part. My next search is the ISC and MAP sensors..... will post up what I find.

Cheers
Scotty

*** that is a good one. I was also looking at a air pressure sensor, looks like it is a manifold pressure sensor. I am trying to get the specs.

I know at one time Ford Taurus had the same V-6 Yamaha engine design, but a lot of the sensors are Mitsubishi.

Here are 3 ISC valve Pictures, can you guess which one is the 63p-1312a-00-00 out of a f150 the other are from a lancer and are only $15.00??

[mokaction]

Ford Taurus SHO | Birth of the Ford Taurus SHO

As you can see, the Yamaha F series outboards are very similar to the SHO engines.

I ordered the replacement bearings for my ISC valve (68V-1312A-00-00) for a $1 and will be rebuilding it. I will post a new thread on how to replace bearing and clean a ISC valve.

[mokaction]

Sorry the number for the replacement bearing for 68V-1312A-00-00 is:

1. NTN part number W688AZZ - OEM is Chrome Steel bearing, that is why it rust

2. 688A-ZZMC3 - exact copy Chrome Steel - will rust in time. = $1.00 per Bearing

3. EZ0-688 Made in Japan - All stainless steel = This is what I will be replacing it with now. = $7 to 10 per Bearing

4. SMR688C-2YS NB2, 8x16x5 mm, Stainless Steel Ceramic Hybrid Radial Bearing = Will rebuild one ISC and test it. I think this will be the best bearing since it is Ceramic and SS. = $10.00 per Bearing

Bearing size is: Description: ID (d): 8.000. OD (D): 16.000. Width (B): 5.000

and can be found at any hobby store or hobby website, just got mine off of ebay for a package of 10 for $10.00

I will try to rebuild 2 ISC valves since I have one that just when bad and the old one from 2 years ago. both units have bad bearings.

Seems like that is what is causing them to stick.

[scottcmb1965]

*** that is a good one. I was also looking at a air pressure sensor, looks like it is a manifold pressure sensor. I am trying to get the specs.

I know at one time Ford Taurus had the same V-6 Yamaha engine design, but a lot of the sensors are Mitsubishi.

Here are 3 ISC valve Pictures, can you guess which one is the 63p-1312a-00-00 out of a f150 the other are from a lancer and are only $15.00??

The last picture on the list is the F150 genuine as it is identical to what came off my motors....... i have seen the others that are in your pictures and see two differences.... the obvious of how the connector plugs in.... but the other "Possible" difference is the diameter of the plunger at the end of the valve...... looking at the pics you posted up and comparing it to My one off my F150..... the F150 seems to have a narrower diameter at the end of the plunger....... plus there could be other differences like speed of operation or calibration....... i personally know someone that owns a Mitsubishi Lancer and also someone else that owns a Mitsubishi Outlander that use that particular ISC valve thats in you pictures..... im going to see if i can compare theirs to the Yamaha and test and see if it is usable on the F150.
But till then im still not going to give up on finding another avenue for the exact part like i did with the Oil pressure sensor.
Will keep you guys posted on what i find.

Cheers Scotty

[mokaction]

Scotty,

thx you so much for your interest. I have taken apart 2 of the ISC's that came off my f200trxa and found that the bearings on both of them are ceased up.

Also found out that the bearing's on both ISC are the same chrome steel bearing.

I am think that if I don't use my boat that often that moisture get in to the ISC bearing and in time it will rust up and then cause my ISC to stick.

Since the bearing in the ISC is not that tight it will then to move, but not that freely, like a bearing would.
I've ordered a couple of new bearings, with Stainless Steel track and balls and, SS track and Ceramic balls. So I know they won't rust after time.

Will do a full thread on how to dismantle and rebuild the ISC unit. Also I am finding that it is standard to get 30 ohms from center pin to outer pins.

[scottcmb1965]

Scotty,

thx you so much for your interest. I have taken apart 2 of the ISC's that came off my f200trxa and found that the bearings on both of them are ceased up.

Also found out that the bearing's on both ISC are the same chrome steel bearing.

I am think that if I don't use my boat that often that moisture get in to the ISC bearing and in time it will rust up and then cause my ISC to stick.

Since the bearing in the ISC is not that tight it will then to move, but not that freely, like a bearing would.
I've ordered a couple of new bearings, with Stainless Steel track and balls and, SS track and Ceramic balls. So I know they won't rust after time.

Will do a full thread on how to dismantle and rebuild the ISC unit. Also I am finding that it is standard to get 30 ohms from center pin to outer pins.

Cheers dude,

i just followed what you posted up with what you did to your older ISC's and dissmantled one of mine just now. I have found the same thing, a siezed bearing. So i am going to do the same as you and replace the bearing and put it back together.
I have a theory as to why they rust out so easily so im going to try a little experiment with this one and see if it keeps the corrosion at bay. That can be a discussion for another time.
Thanks for starting this thread, its saving me some dollars already for when i go to start the rebuild on the second F150 i have. I have just finished rebuilding the first one and tomorrow its hit the water to do the tedious "running in" proceedure and log some data at the same time to make sure everything is all good with it

Cheers
Scotty

[mokaction]

Scotty,

Make sure you use stainless steel or ceramic ball bearings. They sell them at hobby stores.

Also I listed the dimensions.

Please don't forget to measure all the heights from of the base before pulling apart.

[mokaction]

I just pulled out the bearing and took the bearing apart, there was no sign of rust, but it would not turn freely.

I took of the sides and cleaned it out with carb cleaner and now it is smooth as silk. That bearing was totally frozen.

attached is a pic of the bearing. As you can see I have it attached to a magnate, so they are not stainless steel.

Going to replace it with stainless and put it back together with some jb wield.