'98 115hp 2stroke Oil leak from spark plugs

[rodbolt17]

hahahahahaah
now he wants literature on the tach? from Yamaha ???? hahahaahahaa.

some Yamaha data was poorly translated at best.

that is why some Yamaha motors can run a fever.

but there is really not much literature on the rigging components.

[boscoe99]

Just wanted to update ya Boscoe and gang...picked up and installed today the very special $5 rubber O-ring. Fits nice and snug on carb choke lever. Problem solved. On to the next problem...troubleshooting the digital tach glitch. It's an older model one, reads only rpm, tilt, oil, temp. No buttons. If you know of any literature that could please send me there. Thanks.

Thanks for the feed back and good to hear you fixed your problem. Cheap barstard that I are, I would have used a Home Depot O ring.

What is the problem with the tachometer? There are multiple versions. Which one do you have? Can you post a photo of the front of it?

Or of these, which one does it look like?

https://www.google.com/search?q=imag...HVBSBc0QsAQIGw

[rodbolt17]

I can go even cheaper than a home depot oring.
strip a piece of 16ga multi strand wire about 1". take two strands and twist them together.
wrap that twisted pair around the groove.

keep posting one issue at a time and we can walk ya through it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I can go even cheaper than a home depot oring.
strip a piece of 16ga multi strand wire about 1". take two strands and twist them together.
wrap that twisted pair around the groove.

.

That'll work BUT an "circlip" won't??? Hummm.

[rodbolt17]

dunno where you would get an E clip made in stainless that small.
then where ya gonna get a munchkin with small enough fingers to install it?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm sure you've safety wired parts part before.

To slip on a C or E clip isn't hard to do. Safety wire, (maybe with a small SS washer before that) (thin), would work fine as well wrapped in that machined edge and doubled over.

No more worrying about rubber o-rings going away, getting bumped off either.

[Jason2tpa]

Here is a pic of my tach. Hopefully it opens large enough. It's tough to describe exactly what I see because there isn't such a word to describe lol. But you ever had a digital watch that starts to fail. Only a few segments of each number can be seen. It's like that, along with the digital arrows pointing to either temp or oil, or both. No alarm sounds. It's like the whole screen is going haywire. Sometimes a tap on the screen fixes it, sometimes not. It most often occurs within the first 30 minutes of operating engine. When throttling down after running then neutral, the screen operates correctly. I just don't know where to start troubleshooting, with multiple wires into the wire harness, and multiple wire harnesses, under tach and inside engine compartment. I've searched the internet for this tach's manual hoping it would have a troubleshooting section, but no luck.

Thanks for the feed back and good to hear you fixed your problem. Cheap barstard that I are, I would have used a Home Depot O ring.

What is the problem with the tachometer? There are multiple versions. Which one do you have? Can you post a photo of the front of it?

Or of these, which one does it look like?

https://www.google.com/search?q=imag...HVBSBc0QsAQIGw

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Like pixels going away / failing?

[Jason2tpa]

Sure, you could say that. Like I said, i don't know the exact word to describe the malfunction. My amateur guess is a short somewhere, only because the majority of the time the gauge works perfectly, digital numbers are black, not faded. And because when it does goes haywire it's not just the tach numbers, it's the entire gauge. Sometimes it will go from a faded partial "E" to "F" then to a number or double digits. Ever hear of this? And where do I start, what's the first connection you would check? Thanks bud.

Like pixels going away / failing?

[Jason2tpa]

I believe the original part number for this tach is 6Y5-8350T-81-00. If correct, it's now an obsolete part, which is probably why I can't find any literature on the web. The newer models have the "SET" and "MODE" buttons.

Like pixels going away / failing?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check all your connectors to the tach. Any corrosion will give a bad connection and cause issues. Jiggle the wires to it while watching the display. Tap the display again while watching it.

If all is clean, either corrosion inside the unit or just failing from old age (an electronic component worn out..).

If still no luck, and if possible, pull off the back of the unit and inspect again for corrosion/ green goo shorting across the circuit board, etc..


My 1.5 year old spa went thru three DIGITAL Displays as individual pixels failed...They finally fixed the display (replaced it with an updated one as the old style was a POS)

[Jason2tpa]

Will do. If there happens to be corrosion inside a harness, would this require a new harness? Or perhaps a corrosion spray that could be applied? Thanks

Check all your connectors to the tach. Any corrosion will give a bad connection and cause issues. Jiggle the wires to it while watching the display. Tap the display again while watching it.

If all is clean, either corrosion inside the unit or just failing from old age (an electronic component worn out..).

If still no luck, and if possible, pull off the back of the unit and inspect again for corrosion/ green goo shorting across the circuit board, etc..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Corrosion could be anywhere. They make contact cleaner for cleaning electronic boards, etc. You have to have a good connection and of course a GOOD operating gauge.

I suspect your gauge is just worn out from old age but digging a little can't hurt. Any Green is bad.


As a side note, I have a small FM radio (at least 25 years old) out by my boat lift that's had a bad connection for at least the last decade (have to keep smacking the volume switch to make it work). Pulled it apart last week, accessed the rear of the volume switch (it was soldiered in-did NOT remove it). Sprayed contact cleaner and compressed air while moving the dial. And then some penetrant, works 100% now...

[Jason2tpa]

Haha, fantastic. Gotta love that. Ok man, good ideas thanks!

Corrosion could be anywhere. They make contact cleaner for cleaning electronic boards, etc. You have to have a good connection and of course a GOOD operating gauge.

I suspect your gauge is just worn out from old age but digging a little can't hurt. Any Green is bad.


As a side note, I have a small FM radio (at least 25 years old) out by my boat lift that's had a bad connection for at least the last decade (have to keep smacking the volume switch to make it work). Pulled it apart last week, accessed the rear of the volume switch (it was soldiered in-did NOT remove it). Sprayed contact cleaner and compressed air while moving the dial. And then some penetrant, works 100% now...

[Jason2tpa]

On a hot streak this week...2 issues, 2 solutions, both of which cost me barely nutting haha. Got under the console and removed the wiring harness between the Tach and ignition. Cleaned it up a bit. Noticed there were a few wires plugged where they shouldn't have been. Re-installed...presto. No more haywire screen. And I got the trim sender to work properly and read accurate on the tach so it was a 2-for-1, boom! Thanks again guys, I hope this website is paying y'all for your expertise. Dam shame if not lol. Cheers.

Corrosion could be anywhere. They make contact cleaner for cleaning electronic boards, etc. You have to have a good connection and of course a GOOD operating gauge.

I suspect your gauge is just worn out from old age but digging a little can't hurt. Any Green is bad.


As a side note, I have a small FM radio (at least 25 years old) out by my boat lift that's had a bad connection for at least the last decade (have to keep smacking the volume switch to make it work). Pulled it apart last week, accessed the rear of the volume switch (it was soldiered in-did NOT remove it). Sprayed contact cleaner and compressed air while moving the dial. And then some penetrant, works 100% now...