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  • #16
    Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
    Obviously its for a two stroke lower end.

    This valve is machined to fit into the block?

    On all Yamaha 2 strokes?

    One per cylinder I gather?

    Just curious, never heard of it.

    Learn something new everyday! Thanks
    there are 2, 1 for each main bearing on the crankshaft
    I'm putting my first outboard together that someone else disassembled so I'm
    probably going to have more questions :-)
    I've got the parts catalog and service manual to help me along, but can't put the crank and pistons back before this check valve issue is solved.
    I might just assemble it without the valves to see if she runs ok first, then when the valves come in, install them then ?

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    • #17
      Kind of doubt I would put something together just to "see if it runs" without a part from the oil system! then pull it to bits again to fit them.

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      • #18
        What happens if it does not run well with the valve removed? Will damage ensue?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by ausnoelm View Post
          Kind of doubt I would put something together just to "see if it runs" without a part from the oil system! then pull it to bits again to fit them.
          Good point, but the motor was submerged for 8 hrs, and the valves are a month away from Panama, I'm thinking I'll find other issues that will call for parts too as I assemble and fire it up.

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          • #20
            Thanks for the update and additional information.

            Rodbolt will chime in and I suspect it needs to be there for longevity. To wait a month is a PIA, but to get a MUCH longer life on the engine, its worth it...
            Scott
            1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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            • #21
              Maybe it would be of some value for running the motor short term to use the double oil/gas ratio....until you can install the new check valves....this is recommended for break in of freshly rebuilt engines anyway...

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              • #22
                Originally posted by robert graham View Post
                Maybe it would be of some value for running the motor short term to use the double oil/gas ratio....until you can install the new check valves....this is recommended for break in of freshly rebuilt engines anyway...
                woot, thanks for the meat and potato's answer, so running without the valves will double the oil input ? I can live with that short term. thank you thank you thank you :-)

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                • #23
                  I am now lost on this thread.

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                  • #24
                    I am sure he meant that maybe it would be a good idea to mix oil with the fuel to double the oil.

                    But from what Rod posted(he is a Yamaha Master tech) It would be best to wait for the valve in my opinion.

                    Using the crankcase pulses to help feed the main bearing with oil, and with out the check valve that feed may not be there.

                    Still no complete motor model # to help people know what motor he is talking about

                    But I have no idea where it is getting the oil.

                    You could be waisting a crank along with a block if it does not get the oil it needs

                    A complete motor model # probably would help us know what motor you are dealing with
                    Last edited by 99yam40; 04-04-2016, 07:07 PM.

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                    • #25
                      From what Rod posted, it sounds like the valves are in the block, under the main bearings(hence, remove the bearings).

                      Your now talking about tearing the engine down to the crank AGAIN, to replace those valves.

                      And plus 1 re possibly toasting the crank...
                      Scott
                      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                        I am sure he meant that maybe it would be a good idea to mix oil with the fuel to double the oil.

                        But from what Rod posted(he is a Yamaha Master tech) It would be best to wait for the valve in my opinion.

                        Using the crankcase pulses to help feed the main bearing with oil, and with out the check valve that feed may not be there.

                        Still no complete motor model # to help people know what motor he is talking about

                        But I have no idea where it is getting the oil.

                        You could be waisting a crank along with a block if it does not get the oil it needs

                        A complete motor model # probably would help us know what motor you are dealing with
                        OK its a 1999 200 2 stroke FETO model sold in Panama, the valves are located on the center bearings in crank shaft, 2 of them. I found a small metal disk from the valve, " I assume " in the bearing race ? the sleeve the bearing turns in. the boat was flipped in the surf, up side down for 8 hrs, righted and torn down by a local mechanic 2 days later. his prognosis due to crankshaft marks was a new crankshaft bearings and rods $6,000. I'm putting the motor together with just a new gasket set and whatever else might have failed, like the valves. Its my first motor assembly and only wanted to know how to remove the old valves, but the replacements I was told are a month away, and I'd like to get the motor running, do some great big **** fishing and try to sell the boat and motor in the process, to fund another boat. I'll be upfront and honest with all potential buyers.
                        I found zero info on the net about these valves so I inquired here, thanks for all your replies, there has been some treasures for me among them :-)
                        I'll be back ! with different threads :-)

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                        • #27
                          Rod told you how to get it out If that is all you wanted, but I do not know if that metal came from that check valve.
                          I replaced all of the crankcase re circulation check valves in my C40TLRX due to 2 of them not checking any more when I tested them whan I had it apart.
                          I took apart the good one I removed and it had a plastic disc in it.
                          I have no Idea if these are even close to being the same on these completely different motors, but if you pull the valves out you might open them up to see what they are made of or test them to see if the allow flow only one way

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                          • #28
                            I'm going to order the parts state side and have them shipped overnight, just have to open a account with the shippers here. If I'm going to start repairing motors, best to have a reliable parts source :-)

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