200 OX66 Lower Unit

[o2bfishin]

Hello,
Hoping some guys who pull these cases apart for a living can help me out, resealing a 2003 SX200TXRB with less than 400 hours on it but age and salt have done their thing. I understand the prop seals can be pulled by screws or modified seal pullers but this can be tricky, I am a ASE mechanic with an automotive and heavy truck shop so I can handle tricky but it also wont bother me to put in the work to do it right and get inside to inspect the unit and punch out the seals. I already know that I will need to drill out or air saw the retaining nut as not to strip the case threads but the manual shows using a puller against the prop shaft on this one but I have seen where some techs say just take out the shift shaft and use a slide hammer, what works best for you guys?
Thanks!

[rodbolt17]

as I am a Yamaha Master tech.
I use the tools.

yes cutting out the claw nut is standard.

then I remove the shift shaft.

then I use the tool that threads on the prop shaft and my slide hammer.

its like a barrel nut.

then I use oxy/acetylyne and heat the crap outta the case.

remove the water intake screens.

then slide hammer it out.

when drilling the claw nut.
I typically use a 5/16ths bullit point bit.
drill two holes about 1/2" apart and a third hole about 180* from the first two.
then its hammer and chisel time.

[o2bfishin]

Thanks Rodbolt, hoping you would respond, I dont have the correct adapter from my 1/2 thread on the puller to the metric prop thread but may be able to use a prop nut and weld it on an old body shop puller adapter. will plan to BBQ it and new paint job on the unit when done, was toying with cheating them out to save the paint as the motor is trailered / garaged and still looks new....

[99yam40]

I do not do this for a living, so take what I say as you wish.
I have removed a few prop shafts with the carriers by drilling a hole large enough for the prop shaft to slip though in a board that will fit across the lower case opening.
Use spacers and washers to be able to put the nut on the shaft and turn it until the carrier popped loose. add more washers etc when you run out of threads on shaft.

I had to use a splined prop thrust washer in the correct area on the shaft with the spacers/washers to be able to hold the shaft from turning with a pipe wrench when getting down on the prop nut, but it has worked on 3 different motors for me without the need to heat

Good luck and let us know how things go for you

Oh yea, if you use heat as Rodbolt said,
remove the plastic water intake screens before using the heat or you will be buying new ones

[o2bfishin]

Thanks for the advise 99yam40, I have tranny case bearing pullers and was going to try and set one up to basically pull it the way your describing, using the case for leverage sounds like your way may just be easier though
Like I was saying to Rodbolt I would love to save my purty factory paint. even with zinc oxide primer and Chromabase / Clearcoat its still not as good as the factory dip.

[rodbolt17]

the nut is brass.
do NOT try to pull with the nut.

I have used a 3 jaw slide hammer,the aft prop spacer and the prop nut.

pain but it works.

easy way is have a local machine shop make the tool.

[99yam40]

Rod is right on prop nut being a brass nut.

May be a good idea to find a metric nut that fits that is made of stronger material and use grease or antiseze to keep threads from galling.

Also if using spacers and washers make sure the hole that the shaft goes through is big enough for the splined part of shaft to fit through.
Took me awhile to figure out why it would not move farther

[o2bfishin]

Rodbolt, I haven't been to the shop since I started this thread to work on the unit so I didn't notice the composition of the nut, I will get the guys over at the machine shop to drill and blind tap me one out of a piece of bar stock, this way no matter what I decide to do I will have something solid to pull on.

[99yam40]

here is a thought I just had, it you are going to have a machine shop make something for you,
Have them make a threaded rod to fit the threads on the shaft so you can screw it on, and have the outside threaded also for you to run a large nut onto it to rig up as I originally said.
That way it would be less of a chance to damaging the prop shaft threads while torquing down on the nut

[rodbolt17]

I use 1 1/8ths prop shaft scraps from inboard shafts.

have the shop drill and tap one end about 1" deep for the propshaft threads and the other end about 1" deep for your slide hammer thread.

or buy the tool from a Yamaha dealer, its the tool for pulling left hand case shafts but works equally well on right hand units.

[o2bfishin]

Was able to remove claw nut today as per your instructions, even on the low hours unit it was obvious it was never going to turn without the threads coming out of the case, I will roll the torch over to my bay in the morning. I have a 18mm O2 sensor spacer with over an inch of threads in it and the other end I am cutting in 5/8 18 threads for my big puller.
my question is now how to hold the hot potato in place while working on it....

[rodbolt17]

that's why I use the correct tool or a copy of it.

that way when that VERY hot carrier/propshaft comes out I am holding it with the slide hammer not dropping it on the floor nor getting SEVERLY burned by the hot BOILING gear oil that's coming out with it.

its just to simple to BUY or MAKE the correct tool for the job.

but its your unit, your skin, do as you wish.

[99yam40]

my question is now how to hold the hot potato in place while working on it....

Vise would be my thought. need to hold it well if using a slide hammer.
If you try the way I said there is not much force/movement of housing as you are pulling against the case itself

Might try without the heat to start out with, if it will not work, then put the heat on it

[scofflaw]

Do you have a part # for that barrel nut ?