NO Spark HELP!!! 1992 Yamaha 115hp V4

[chileynikolay]

Rod said it has 2 ,
do both triggers(pulsers) have the same output and Ohms?

Yes they have the same test numbers , about 330 ohms and about 0.45v on a regular voltmeter , waiting for my dva to come in and get a more accurate reading. I was told it's rare that both triggers to go out so I'm trying to see why then is the voltage from them so low.

My understanding is that the stator spins and creates the higher voltage (85v and 16) Volts via the charge coils, and then it gets stores in the Cdi and the trigger tells the Cdi to release the voltage to go to the coil packs which will step up the voltage to a much higher voltage for the spark. If the charge coils are working , the energy is in the cdi, now it's waiting for the trigger to let it go to the coils, but because of the very low current to the Cdi from the trigger, it's telling me that something is wrong with the trigger. My question is, is there a possible way that the problem is in the cdi and not the trigger and why would that be?

[ausnoelm]

Buy a manual and trouble shoot properly, or take it to someone who actually knows what they are doing, measuring voltages and resistance is completely useless UNLESS you know what they should be!

[chileynikolay]

i do have the manual. (seloc and CDI)

It states that everything needs to be;

Trigger: W/R and W/Y - 280-430 ohms 2.5v DVA min
W/B and W/G - 280-430 ohms 2.5v DVA min
Stator: Brown/Red - 600-800 ohms 85v DVA min
Blue and Black/Red - 10-20 ohms 16v DVA min

with my multimeter without DVA i got the following

Trigger: W/R and W/Y - 333 ohms 0.45v(without DVA) (low?)
W/B and W/G - 333 ohms 0.45v(without DVA) (low?)
Stator: Brown/Red - 690 ohms 60v(without DVA) (good?)
Blue and Black/Red - 15 ohms 10v(without DVA) (good?)

My big question is:

Because my ohms measure good, with my DVA still coming in the mail, do the results i got show anything wrong with the trigger or the CDI. I heard that to get an estimate DVA, you can divide the RMS by 0.707 and it will give you a pretty good number of what the DVA voltage is. I am waiting for the DVA to come in the mail, but in the meantime want some advice on what it looks like it is.

[pappastratos]

what have you found out ?

[chileynikolay]

My DVA looks like it should come in this week. Im confused with some things though.

1. What voltage should i get cranking in the stator leads and trigger leads?
guide it says 2.5v for triggers and 85/45v for stator coils.

without DVA but with new Fluke i get 1.36v for the trigger leads and 80.5 and 10.6 for the stator leads.

so i am low on the high speed coil voltage, but why am i not getting an output voltage from the CDI at using the good low speed voltage. I will get DVA reading soon but even with the fluke it looks good for the low speed. the way i understand this is that i wouldn't be using the high speed voltage until 1500 rpm.

2. what resistance should i have?
guide it says:
OEM parts 288-432 for triggers and 840-1260 and 102-152 for stator coils.
aftermarket 288- 432 for triggers and 600-800 and 10-20

resistance i got 333 for the triggers and for the stator coils i got 712 and 15


I am getting closer to the CDI brand reading. I am going to check maybe someone replaced using aftermarket parts.

As soon as I get the DVA i will post up all my results and have you guys take a look at them but any advice is appreciated

[chileynikolay]

i just realized, the cdi manual updated in 2012 says i need 45v for the high speed coil, but on the 2014 updated manual it says i need 16v for the high speed coil. so which one is it? If 16v i think I'm okay, the 45v, i am way too low

[rodbolt17]

dude
do you understyand what peak voltage VS RMS voltage means?

without a DVA use the AC setting it will be slightly closer.

even better use an analog meter.

best is use the correct test equipment or all readings are suspect.

second is use the correct manual.

the stator feeds the CDI unit an ac voltage.
in the CDI its rectified and stored in a capacitor.

the pulser coil signal simply triggers an SCR on the discharge side of the capacitor allowing the stored current to discharge through the ign coil primary windings.
yep its that simple.

to lose spark on all 4 would mean you lost two pulser coils at the same time.

one pulser triggers spark on 1&3 the other on 2&4.

the charge coils charge the caps for all 4.

[chileynikolay]

good evening everyone. I finally got the DVA and the results are in.

for stator:

the stator is having in the engine is a CDI brand aftermarket stator.
i got 163v on the low speed and 24v on the high speed.
specs say 85v on high speed and 16v or 45v (depending on revision year of manual) on the high speed.

for the trigger:

i got 5.4 for both triggers (changes when flywheel spins faster or slower)

BIG NOTE: i measured with the lead connected to the cdi and disconnected. when connected i would get the same results with the rev blue lead disconnected also but when it is connected everything would drastically go down.

ALSO, i noticed a few times now, that i see spark for only a couple seconds when cranking the first time during of day and then i cannot replicate it anymore.

My guess is that the CDI is bad and needs to be replaced. I believe the stator should at least fire some kind of spark even if the high speed is low since the low speed seems perfect and when cranking, it is obviously using the low speed coil.the previous owner obviously got a brand new aftermarket CDI stator and count figure out the problem and donated the boat to an auction where i got it from. I have a brand new trigger but don't want to install it is not necessary because i can still return in. I also have a brand new OEM power-pack coming in on Saturday.

let me know your suggestions about what you think the problem is and please comment about why the high speed stator is low and why it would be like that especially when the stator looks brand new.

thank you guys

[seppi]

have a look at your kill switch

He did by disconnecting white wire !!

[zenoahphobic]

Seeing that seppi has bumped up this old thread, I wonder if chillynikolay could tell us what the final outcome was.

[Cigar Minnow]

OK fellas - I replaced the main relay and it appears that it was not the problem - now when I turn the key to the on position the alarm buzzer goes off and continues to sound until I crank the engine - engine cranks freely but no spark at plugs - 12 volts at coils, no voltage at fuel injectors or throttle position sensor . Bought the YDS software and installed and set device to COM 1 and followed instructions - plugged into diagnostic port turned switch to on and software will not communicate with engine. I have a feeling that this may be more than I can handle but would like to try it anyway. Any and all suggestions appreciated thank you

[pstephens46]

OK fellas - I replaced the main relay and it appears that it was not the problem - now when I turn the key to the on position the alarm buzzer goes off and continues to sound until I crank the engine - engine cranks freely but no spark at plugs - 12 volts at coils, no voltage at fuel injectors or throttle position sensor . Bought the YDS software and installed and set device to COM 1 and followed instructions - plugged into diagnostic port turned switch to on and software will not communicate with engine. I have a feeling that this may be more than I can handle but would like to try it anyway. Any and all suggestions appreciated thank you

You posted to wrong thread. This is some old V-4 115 thread. YDIS was not a thought yet. Think I remember setting COM port after key was turned to “on” position. I use it so rarely I cannot remember.

[dray0151]

I only had to set the PD to comm one once but you have to turn the key on before boot up the PC and start the software.