Yamaha 703 shift control hand is loose

[okeechobee]

I purchased a 1993 Lund 1660 that has a 1999-2000 (registration says 1999, tag on motor indicates it is a 2000) 2 stroke, 90 hp Yamaha with a 703 con*****er that has the lift up handle for idling or starting, I'm not sure what this does. Seems to start better when I do not use it. It has a key switch choke. The actual shift handle is loose and can be pulled out about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from the control box itself. I thought is was like the new boxes that lets you pull out on the handle and then give the motor acceleration while in neutral but it isn't. My question, does this have a screw or bolt that can be tightened to cure this problem or is this something I just have to live with or replace the entire con*****er which runs in the neighborhood of $300.00. Thanks for your assistance.

[99yam40]

If you would always post the complete model # of your motor it always tells what year model it is.
I would think taking the con*****er apart should lead you to what the problem is. sounds like a clip or bolt is missing or something is broke

[boscoe99]

The lift up lever is used to advance the the throttles without shifting the lower unit into gear. Sometimes it helps a cold start which seems to be the opposite of what you have determined. Once started the lever can be raised to increase the idle RPM to reduce the engine warm up time.

Remove the outer cover on the handle and there may be a screw that can be tightened to better hold the handle in place.

2006 and Later Rigging Yamaha Outboard CONTROL STANDARD SIDE 703 PUSH Diagram and Parts

[okeechobee]

Thanks for your replies boscoe99 and 99yam40, I did take the outer cover and there is a threaded whole in the middle of the shift handle with no screw in it but in examining the hole and it is about a 1/2 inch deep but it does not go all the way through. I will try to get it apart. Thanks for the link.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You shouldn't have to pull it apart any farther if your at the threads.
A hardware store run, or break out the spare metric bolts and find what fits correctly.

(if not replacing with OEM, I'd use stainless steel)

A spot of loctite upon re-assembly wouldn't hurt either..