Best Decarbonizing Procedure?

[Zara Spook]

I have a 2003 V150TLRB. Wondering what folks think would be the best decarbonizing procedure for this engine?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

One option:

COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER

[Zara Spook]

One option:

COMBUSTION CHAMBER CLEANER

Appreciate that. I already have two cans of Power Tune because I heard that was good stuff.

I'm interested more in what folks think is the best procedure to use when doing this, as in what RPMs to take the engine up to, how long to spray before getting the engine to stall, whether to spray it through the spark plug holes afterward, how long to let it sit before blowing it out, etc.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would stick to what the manufacturer for that particular product calls for.

The last spray in combustion cleaner I used was for an Evinrude, made by Evinrude. It was sprayed down the intake while running, (I think high idle), smoked like a b...h. Sprayed till it stalled... They had you let it sit for a bit (its literally been decades) and then run the boat normal operation..

I currently run Yamaha's Ring Free and don't use any additional...

Good luck...

[rodbolt17]

my thoughts would lean towards simply reading and following the instructions for use printed on the can over most any internet advice.
but that's just me.

[boscoe99]

my thoughts would lean towards simply reading and following the instructions for use printed on the can over most any internet advice.
but that's just me.

In the future when you give advice that is contrary to published manufacturer's data are we to ignore what you have written?

[rodbolt17]

one can use or ignore anything I print.
however I don't use powertune much anymore and cant remember the instructions.
lucky for me they are printed on the can and I like reading instructions.
no matter how poorly translated sometimes.

[Zara Spook]

Appreciate all the feedback. Here is another procedure I found on the internet -- wondering if anyone might have any thoughts about it:

I use either Sea Foam or Engine Tuner by Bombardier to de-carb my engines. No, I don't just pour it in to the tank. I remove the carburetor or injector air intake cover, start the engine and spray into each carb or throttle body until the can is empty. Run the engine only at idle or fast idle, but not over 900 RPM while spraying into the cavities. Toward the end I'm trying to flood the engine out (V6 engine). As soon as the engine either floods out or dies, I shut it down.
I remove the plugs and spray a can into the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand to be sure the solution has saturated in, behind, and under the rings. Then I put the plugs back in (but don't tighten), tilt the engine horizontal so the solution sits on top of the pistons. I put the cowling back on and let it sit overnight.

The next day I remove the cowling and spark plugs. I use an air compressor to blow the solution out of each cylinder and turn the engine over again about 10 times by hand, not with the starter. Then I put all the plugs back in (and index the plugs--only mandatory on Bombardier's Evinrude FICHT engines and for racing engines or high-performance injected engines.).

Next I either launch the boat (recommended), or put it on the hose, and start it. Keep your hand on the key because the engine will want to over-rev and burn off the excess solution. If it over-rev's, shut her down and re-start her again. You may have to shut her down sometimes up to three times before you burn off all the solution. If the boat is in the water, just start her and put her in gear and the prop will give enough resistance so the engine won't over-rev as it would if she were in neutral.

De-carbonizing Technique - Moderated Discussion Areas

[Zara Spook]

More important to keeping these F225s running right is to check your RACORS for water after EVERY trip (and drain off any water). Switch to RACORS if you can't drain off water and see the water in the bottom plastic see through bowl.

Let your RACORs get (mostly) full of water just once, and you will be one sorry ass boater IMO. Been there - done that. Check those filters and drain "any" water after EVERY trip. More important than checking the dipstick IMO. Why Yamaha doesn't tell you this in their Owners Manuals, I don't know.

Pertaining to this above, what if you're using a regular Yamaha 10-micron fuel-water separator that doesn't allow you to empty water from it?

[boscoe99]

Pertaining to this above, what if you're using a regular Yamaha 10-micron fuel-water separator that doesn't allow you to empty water from it?

Switch to RACORS

[rodbolt17]

gotta love the internet.
most direct injected and almost all MPI or direct injected motors can and will bend rods if a liquid or liquid spray is injected at the throttle body.

unlike a carbed motor of yesteryear all the intake is designed to do now is move air in the most efficient method for all RPM ranges.

means most liquids tend to puddle in the intake until a rather large slug of liquid is injested all at once.
then it starts knocking.

but hey.
do as you wish.

[Zara Spook]

gotta love the internet.
most direct injected and almost all MPI or direct injected motors can and will bend rods if a liquid or liquid spray is injected at the throttle body.

unlike a carbed motor of yesteryear all the intake is designed to do now is move air in the most efficient method for all RPM ranges.

means most liquids tend to puddle in the intake until a rather large slug of liquid is injested all at once.
then it starts knocking.

but hey.
do as you wish.

Would the procedure I quoted from the link above hurt my V150TLRB?

[rodbolt17]

the easiest way on YOUR SPECIFIC motor is remove the air box.
warm the engine up.
spray the instructed amount,typically on the can in tiny letters, down each butterfly with the engine trimmed fully down/in.
RPM should be in the 1100-1200 RPM as much higher and it can overheat on the flusher.
if the instructions say let stand overnight ok.

if the instructions don't then fill a small cup with whatever decarb stuff your going to use,toss in an old seal or an oring.
let stand overnight.
now look at what the solution did,if anything,to the rubber.

I can tell you what an overnight soak does to Yamaha seals and orings using combustion chamber cleaner.

[zenoahphobic]

In the future when you give advice that is contrary to published manufacturer's data are we to ignore what you have written?

Good one.
What's the point of this forum if we can get absolute clarity from what is written on the container.
The point of the forum is to get personal experience or a wider consensus .
So it often turns out "read the instructions" comment really means "I can't remember , haven't used it for a while, er ... I really don't believe in using the stuff".

Just my little observation.

[Zara Spook]

the easiest way on YOUR SPECIFIC motor is remove the air box.
warm the engine up.
spray the instructed amount,typically on the can in tiny letters, down each butterfly with the engine trimmed fully down/in.
RPM should be in the 1100-1200 RPM as much higher and it can overheat on the flusher.
if the instructions say let stand overnight ok.

if the instructions don't then fill a small cup with whatever decarb stuff your going to use,toss in an old seal or an oring.
let stand overnight.
now look at what the solution did,if anything,to the rubber.

I can tell you what an overnight soak does to Yamaha seals and orings using combustion chamber cleaner.

Appreciate it. The directions say to let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes I believe.

What if you burned out everything you sprayed down the butterflies, and then let what you sprayed into the combustion chambers (through the spark plug holes) sit overnight?

What I'm trying to get at most is any coking that's present in the exhaust port of the two-stroke, so that the air and fuel movement through the chamber is more efficient.

On the one hand you hear people say that letting these decarbonizing solutions sit in the chamber long enough to liquify the carbon deposits is best, so that solid pieces of carbon don't chip off and score the pistons or cylinder walls. On the other hand I don't want leave the stuff in too long and do harm in some other way.