Anode bolt grease

[cleddau1]

Interesting points, Dennis, the river is tidal for 5 miles upstream of my mooring and the water is always salty except possibly for an hour or so around Low Water when it might be just river flow. But at LW my boat is either high and dry or at sea.
I windsurf on the same stretch of water and thus have tasted the water on many occasions. Cannot windsurf at LW as no wheels on my board. However the next time I walk across to check my mooring at LW I will taste the river water.
Tidal range here is 15 to 25 ft so I go downstream up to 2 hours after HW and return in the 2 hours prior to HW, so I think the engine is always running in salt water.
For example next Wednesday HW is 7.6 METRES LW 0.4 METRES

[fairdeal]

Al is going to be your best solution as it is the only one that can be safely used in both waters. In fact, there's even times when it's better than Mg (fresh) and Zn (salt) when used STRICTLY in those waters.

The way I read the literature,

aluminum (specifically, meeting MIL-DTL-24779B) anodes are always "better" - for an outboard motor.


Aluminum provides a higher level of protection than zinc, AND lasts longer.

Magnesium has the risk of "overprotection" - causing the paint on the engine to blister - if the "fresh" water is polluted (as by acid rain) or if taken into brackish or saltwater.

Aluminum provides completely adequate protection in any water.

So far as I can see, Yamaha has only ONE part number for each size/shape of its anodes. I'm betting they are all aluminum.

[DennisG01]

Cannot windsurf at LW as no wheels on my board.

Ha!

It's not so much about "taste" only. There's lot's of things that come into play here.

I don't know if the OB vs IO thing really matters, but I think Fairdeal is correct - like most (engine) manufacturers, "their" anodes are Al. I know that it's true for Merc. I'm pretty sure that when I picked up a new lower bracket anode for my Yamaha is was/is Al (light). IIRC, I specifically asked for Al but the parts guy said "No worries, they're all Al, now".

[Capt No Slack]

right or wrong......I have had good luck with Permatex 14a

it is an "anti galling" thread sealant that loosens with standard hand tools (no heat needed).

this is what I use on my lower unit bolts, water pump bolts and sacrificial anodes boats etc...etc...

applied properly and allowed to cure this stuff will forms a waterproof seal around the bolt that shouldn't wash out

[zenoahphobic]

Just off the top of my head. Anodes are sacrificial the quicker they corrode or diss appear the better the protection . So an anode that lasts longer must not give the same protection.
So I expect the so called aluminium anodes are alloys with whatever they call it lower on the galvanic electric table so they chemically react with the water solution electrolyte rather than the aluminium and other metals that make up the engine.
Therefore I expect some of these shiny long lasting aluminium anodes are because they are cheaper to make and will look more pleasing for longer!! But offset by less performance (galvanic protection)!!!

[throrope]

Ok rodbolt, you serviced our 90 hp TLRD and we run 90% in Pamlico sound. What anodes should we use? Don't be bashful about mfg & part number. Thx

[throrope]

right or wrong......I have had good luck with Permatex 14a

it is an "anti galling" thread sealant that loosens with standard hand tools (no heat needed).

this is what I use on my lower unit bolts, water pump bolts and sacrificial anodes boats etc...etc...

applied properly and allowed to cure this stuff will forms a waterproof seal around the bolt that shouldn't wash out

I think that's the same stuff I just first time used on our truck's front suspension and plugs. The bottle now sits next to the brew and gets used like hot sauce. Website says it's good for marine. That reminds me - gotta go fog the cylinders.

[rodbolt17]

we use genuine Yamaha anodes,unless they are backordered then we try to use maryter.
for general bolts I simply use water proof grease.
trim tab bolts get locktite 518.

[pstephens46]

we use genuine Yamaha anodes,unless they are backordered then we try to use maryter.
for general bolts I simply use water proof grease.
trim tab bolts get locktite 518.

Bought a Yam trim anode yesterday. Broke the thread area when tightening the old one. Shockingly the Yam tab was only $20. Guessed it would be much more.

[fairdeal]

Bought a Yam trim anode yesterday. Broke the thread area when tightening the old one.

I've broken two in the three years I've owned the engine;

IMO the 31 lb.ft. torque spec in the F225 SM is excessive.

Plus much of the casting isn't being held by the bolt.

One of these days I'm going to get a longer bolt, then drill/tap the anode deeper

[pstephens46]

I've broken two in the three years I've owned the engine;

IMO the 31 lb.ft. torque spec in the F225 SM is excessive.

Plus much of the casting isn't being held by the bolt.

One of these days I'm going to get a longer bolt, then drill/tap the anode deeper

My torque wrench was set to 30 lb ft!

I will go for less and use the 518 as Rod suggests

[rodbolt17]

the one in the pic would have gone in the trash on removal.

[throrope]

Dang - I just missed Santa.

[rodbolt17]

me too.
I wanted a chronograph.
did not get it.
I will now buy it.
argument with the wifey dear Ill figgue it out.

[throrope]

By now wives appreciate reason for yelling at us, which drowns out the ringing in my ears. Now where did I leave my brew?