2006 F150 Coolant hose nipples rusting out, Why?

[vb2oc0371]

First off, I'm new here and want to thank everyone for sharing valuable information. This is a great resource.

Below is a picture of the hose nipple which connects to the bottom part of the coolant hose on an 06 Yamaha F150TXR. While this looks bad, the part is only $28. I'm more concerned about what I can't see internally. I flush my engines religiously with the hose connector (not running), but the water pressure at my dock is poor, therefore the engine doesn't pee when it's being flushed. I've heard that if an engine doesn't pee when being flushed, no big deal, but there's a lot of opinions out there on that. Does the corrosion on the hose nipple indicate potential corrosion problems inside the engine as well? Also, I'm researching, but what's the level of effort required to change the hose nipple out? I have twin engines and both of them have the same amount of corrosion on the coolant hose nipples.

Thanks in advance.

[boscoe99]

From my memory that is a steel part.

What is being seen is external corrosion of steel. What the internal corrosion (if any) inside the motors looks like is anyone's best guess.

One way to view the internals of the block is to remove the thermostat and look in the thermostat bore.

[vb2oc0371]

From my memory that is a steel part.

What is being seen is external corrosion of steel. What the internal corrosion (if any) inside the motors looks like is anyone's best guess.

One way to view the internals of the block is to remove the thermostat and look in the thermostat bore.

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I need to replace the anodes too. This is a new to me boat and I got a great deal on it, but unfortunately no service history records were provided.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have the same engine, same year, about 200 hours, used in salt water(bought new). Religiously flushed, (both with the flusher device and with muffs -running)

Something to consider, I use a product called LP2 to spray the under cowl of the engine occasionally, tilt and trim unit, etc to help keep under hood corrosion to a minimum. The LP2 was recommended by a Yamaha dealer, I believe it was posted here, another LP product is better.

Fairly recent pic's of my 06 under the cowl:

[fairdeal]

you've kept that in beautiful shape, Scott


interesting to see how Yamaha does things slightly differently on each model -

that oil filter location - WTF?

how many rolls of paper towels do you use when you change it?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

you've kept that in beautiful shape, Scott

interesting to see how Yamaha does things slightly differently on each model -that oil filter location - WTF?

how many rolls of paper towels do you use when you change it?

Thank you..

Re the filter, don't loose a drop (used to!).

I pull it and drain while the engine is cold. The filter is already empty. It takes a little longer to drain cold but I've warmed up the engine (on muffs for approx 15 minutes) and the oil was barely warm...

*I figure starting cold is about the same as with a new filter (or with an old filter)-BOTH are EMPTY and the oils either been in the sump overnight (or new oil is now in the sump)-pretty much the same.

Basically the same cold start up inside the engine, just the oil takes a little longer to drain...


BTW, I've tried different ways to drain/pump the old oil out and think I'll stick with the "Seawell tilt and drain":
http://seewellinnovations.com/Demonstration_Video.html

I already have it and used it awhile ago. Pretty slick. I've used the pump (out the dip stick method) which is ok,
but does (in my engine, leave about 2/3's a cup of old oil). Not alot, but the tilt method is a bit cleaner..

[DennisG01]

Getting off on a tangent here, but regarding the filter... Many Mercruisers have a filter mounted the same way. What I do is slowly loosen the filter until the there is the tiniest gap between the gasket and the sealing surface. You'll know you have it right when there appears to be oil "breathing" in that gap. In reality, the gap is larger enough for air to get in (and displace the oil), yet small enough that the oil doesn't seep out. Works great (and allows for a warm oil change)!

Another way is punching a hole in the top of the filter, but I prefer the breathing method since then I don't have a hole in both the top AND bottom of the filter.

Or, do the Yamaha filters NOT have an anti-drainback feature?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great idea too ^^^^^, just cracking it loose so air can get in and drain in a reasonable time!!

Re the anti drain back, I know mine is ALWAYS dry when sitting overnight, thus the "cold" oil change.

[CatCam]

BTW, I've tried different ways to drain/pump the old oil out and think I'll stick with the "Seawell tilt and drain":
Demonstration Video

I already have it and used it awhile ago. Pretty slick. I've used the pump (out the dip stick method) which is ok,
but does (in my engine, leave about 2/3's a cup of old oil). Not alot, but the tilt method is a bit cleaner..

THIS!!! I forget who, but somebody on this forum recommended this Tilt N Drain made by SeeWell Innovations -- they have it on eBay for $17.95 -- This thingy work great!!!!

[boscoe99]

What's the point of the Seawell tilt and drain?

An F115/F150 can be tilted up, the drain plug removed, a bucket held under the drain spout, the motor lowered and all of the oil will simply go into the bucket. When the oil has stopped draining simply tilt the motor back up.

Should be able to do this without spilling a drop. Nothing to buy. Nothing left to be put away that has oil on it.

Unless this gizmo is like another tool that needs to be had no matter what I don't get it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What's the point of the Seawell tilt and drain?

An F115/F150 can be tilted up, the drain plug removed, a bucket held under the drain spout, the motor lowered and all of the oil will simply go into the bucket. When the oil has stopped draining simply tilt the motor back up.

Should be able to do this without spilling a drop. Nothing to buy. Nothing left to be put away that has oil on it.

Unless this gizmo is like another tool that needs to be had no matter what I don't get it.

Ah, no... Holding a container, first off with a wide enough mouth NOT to spill, good luck.

Now, you have to hold it under that little rubber Yamaha spout while it slowly dumps 5.5 quarts of oil while pushing the tilt down switch. There's some weight there too as your container fills up.

And the mid section sticks out to the rear right below the drain getting even more in the way...

Now, even if using a bucket, you have to pour that into another seal-able container to get rid of (that's a mess by itself).. In that video, you put the cap on and your done (short of re-fill, filter)..


Even without it, whatever you use; bucket alone, electric pump with dip stick hose, etc, there's still oil left over in the bucket/hose/pump that'll be dripping (if you bother cleaning it up).

[99yam40]

Great idea too ^^^^^, just cracking it loose so air can get in and drain in a reasonable time!!

Re the anti drain back, I know mine is ALWAYS dry when sitting overnight, thus the "cold" oil change.

Are you using Yamaha filters recommended for you motor?
I thought I read some where that yamaha filters had check valves keeping then from draining back so oil would be more available to lubing the motor at start up

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Are you using Yamaha filters recommended for you motor?
I thought I read some where that yamaha filters had check valves keeping then from draining back so oil would be more available to lubing the motor at start up

Yep, OEM Yamaha filters since new. I don't know how long the oil will remain in the filter once warm, but I do know cold, its flat DRY....

Its cheaper/easier to buy the Yamaha oil change kit which comes with a Yamaha filter, a 5 quart container of oil and a drain plug washer. You still need another 1/2 qt of oil to get it in the middle of the hash marks...

[CatCam]

What's the point of the Seawell tilt and drain?

An F115/F150 can be tilted up, the drain plug removed, a bucket held under the drain spout, the motor lowered and all of the oil will simply go into the bucket. When the oil has stopped draining simply tilt the motor back up.

Should be able to do this without spilling a drop. Nothing to buy. Nothing left to be put away that has oil on it.

Unless this gizmo is like another tool that needs to be had no matter what I don't get it.

Bosco - look at the video and you'll see -- yeah it is a cheesy video but you don't have to hold a bucket in a tilted position because of your lower unit, and you can put the used oil directly into your recycling container. After draining and removing the tiltndrain simply connect the end of the hose to the threaded end of the adapter. I've used mine and when anyone else on the Bayou that has a Yamaha 4-stroke (15 up to 150 HP) changes their oil they borrow it.....I wouldn't do a change without it.
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...78C&FORM=VIRE1