Pooring Steering

[okeechobee]

I purchased a 1993 Lund 1660 Pro V Deluxe last season and it had several small issues with the 1999, Yamaha 90 hp, 2 stroke motor. I had the motor repaired and it now runs well at slow and high speeds. It still will not start without removing the cover and using the the emergency starting system. After it starts it is good for the day. After I shut it off for a day or two I have to through that procedure again, but that is not my question. My question, when running at high speeds the boat wants to pull to the right. The slower the speed the less it pulls. I called the previous owner to see if the boat reacted that way when he owned the boat and he said it drove that way when he purchased it. I am the 3rd owner and it has seen a lot of fishing. Any idea what I can do to correct this problem? Thanks in advance for any help you send my way. Happy New Year to all!

[throrope]

Congrats! You have one of the last indestructable two strokes imported.

Aft of the prop is a fin shaped plate that also serves as annode. Just above on the topside of the cavitation plate is a "rectangular" plastic plug covering an adjustment bolt. The plate is an anti-rotation fin. I suggest adjusting it via systematic trial and error until it steers same enough port to starboard.

You likely have same electric fuel enrichment system we have on the middle carb that includes your "emergency starting system". Amoung it's internal parts, all available here at a discount below msrp, is a diaphragm that if damaged has been reported to cause your issue. If your recent service did not include a complete breakdown and systematic cleaning of every air and fuel passage In your carbs, I suggest you start back at square one with a more qualified and committed resource.

Ours was little used and sat for sometime before we aquired it from the second owner. The throttle and shifting were tight and difficult until I realised they are maintenace items easily changed out in twenty minutes.

When our steering cable stuck solid, I found a maintenance video from Mercury (?) while looking for a replacement system. I was able to force the cable back out of the tube using a 3/8" socket extension and with annual cleaning and lube, the original cable continues serving us.

I went through two sets of fuel line and an expensive carb rebuild due to old gas, a contaminated fuel system and our wunderful ethanol fuel mix. While the materials on your outboard were upgraded to resist the alcohol, carburators on these are very susceptible to fouling and clogging due to fuel degredation. The crap gums up, separates and can eat E10 rated stuff just sitting in the tank for a few months. I replaced all with a tank sized for our habits and ran soft anealed copper for fuel line save 3 feet at tank and motor. I now empty all fuel into the truck after near every trip with an electric solenoid auto fuel pump on a 12v plug with fuel hose, drain the carb bowls and water separating fuel filter, and leave the tank open and upsidedown to completely dry of fuel. Now I can swap out those remaining short lengths of fuel line annually in ten minutes for ten bucks. Haven't had issue since.

Even if you forgo DIY like I in favor of Joe's marine in Wanchese NC, I suggest the service manual available online through Yamaha Publications. It's pricey until you use it the first time.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to add to the above, your trim tab should be set roughly one mark over to the right. This alone makes a BIG difference... (Pic is from my F150 Yamaha shop manual). (First pic to the left)


throrope,

You may try this grease-able steering shaft nut. I had it on my last boat after the steering seized up (like yours). Its been on my current boat since 1997 (salt water use-greased lightly maybe every other outing) and the steering is like new and has never been apart. Well worth the $ IME.

Steersman Steering Cable Grease Guard 7/8" Aluminum

DOUBLE CLICK TO ENLARGE PICTURES

[throrope]

Just to add to the above, your trim tab should be set roughly one mark over to the right. This alone makes a BIG difference... (Pic is from my F150 Yamaha shop manual). (First pic to the left)


throrope,

You may try this grease-able steering shaft nut. I had it on my last boat after the steering seized up (like yours). Its been on my current boat since 1997 (salt water use-greased lightly maybe every other outing) and the steering is like new and has never been apart. Well worth the $ IME.

Steersman Steering Cable Grease Guard 7/8" Aluminum

DOUBLE CLICK TO ENLARGE PICTURES

Thanks You!

[boscoe99]

I purchased a 1993 Lund 1660 Pro V Deluxe last season and it had several small issues with the 1999, Yamaha 90 hp, 2 stroke motor. I had the motor repaired and it now runs well at slow and high speeds. It still will not start without removing the cover and using the the emergency starting system. After it starts it is good for the day. After I shut it off for a day or two I have to through that procedure again, but that is not my question. My question, when running at high speeds the boat wants to pull to the right. The slower the speed the less it pulls. I called the previous owner to see if the boat reacted that way when he owned the boat and he said it drove that way when he purchased it. I am the 3rd owner and it has seen a lot of fishing. Any idea what I can do to correct this problem? Thanks in advance for any help you send my way. Happy New Year to all!

This is completely normal. It is a function of the propeller trying to turn the engine which results in the boat being easier steered to the right than the left. It is also a function of the engine trim angle.

Try this. Get onto plane at whatever cruise speed you wish while leaving the engine trimmed fully downward. The boat will definitely be easier to steer to the right than to the left. Trim the engine up some. The difference will become less. At some point, if the engine is trimmed high enough, the boat will be easier to steer to the left than to the right.

The trick is to find the cruise speed that you want to use, and then determine the engine trim angle that gives you the most boat speed for the cruise RPM. Keep in mind that as you trim the motor up the RPM will also increase somewhat. One variable will be affecting another.

Once you have determined your cruise speed and engine trim angle see if the boat still wants to turn to the right? If so, start moving the torque tab anode that is just in front of the propeller. Move the aft edge of the tab to the right. Try the boat again. The situation should be better. If the boat still turns easier to the right than the left then stop and move the aft edge of the tab a bit more to the right. At some point you will find the trim tab position that provides for an equal effort to turn right and left. But remember, it will only be at your cruise RPM speed with the engine trimmed to the setting that you determined is the best.

Mercury Marine explains this better than most. Here is some stuff from them.

[okeechobee]

Thanks for the information concerning my 1999, 90hp, 2 stroke Yamaha outboard, I will start adjusting in the morning. I appreciate everyone's responses.