Bringing 225 TRXX back to life

[bigdummy]

1993 225 trxx. Put it "away" about 5 years ago. Thought it was going back in use in a short period of time- now 5 years later I'm ready to use it.
Here's the problem- I did nothing to preserve motor at that time.

I've cleaned rebuilt carbs, fuel pumps and new plugs. Checking all adjustments ,etc now. Engine is on stand in shop so easy to access everything at this moment.

Should I be pulling the oil tank(s) apart and cleaning them> Should I change fuel lines, oil lines. etc?

Surprisingly the carbs were very clean for being "abandoned" Everything still looks good throughout the motor (wiring, lines, etc)-but we all know how that can go.

So this leads me to ask for advice and suggestions on whether I should start replacing parts, or get the thing fired up to see if I have any problems. Also, should I spray some wd-40, etc in cylinders before I try to turn motor over (even by hand)?

Thanks for everyone's input and advice

[99yam40]

testing compression would be on my list,
without fogging the motor for storage, you may have rusted cylinders/rings, and crank journals along with rod bearings
there is a reason for fogging before storage.
pull the plugs and borescope the cylinder, no way to check crank and bearings.
if cylinders look OK squirt some 2 stroke oil in them and hope for the best

[amahaork]

just start it on mix 1:50 and see what happened

[bigdummy]

Sorry for delayed reply. When I posted this the site said it did not post so I gave up.

Did the above recommendations, Motor came to life without problem

If you look back several years, this is a motor I was given because it was fouling at low rpm. I got the motor back to almost 98% I'd say. Motor was completely usable for my needs . (Ended up replacing 2 coils backs then)

Since I've started using it again the problem has slowly resurfaced. At under 1800 rpm's boat shakes and floods excessively (almost like it's not running on all cylinders), above1800-2000 it's like it kicks into gear and runs like it should.

I did go through the carbs before I started it. I did not check the enrichment valve/system. (don't have the proper tool at the moment)

Been slowly working through the factory manual, but I'm not a Yamaha tech (and book was obviously written for a Yamaha tech) so I'm not 100% sure of what I'm doing and results accuracy.

Two things I'm trying to clarify- Throttle position senso- when trying to adjust this it seems almost impossible to get it set to .50. Just tighening the screws moves the adjustment out of spec. Is this that sensitive or could this be a problem?
Secondly timing- Timing is electronically con*****ed so not adjustable. Currently don't have dial indicator to set/check timing, but have crudely tried with a calipers set to the required setting (think it's 3.05 mm) and try to get it close that way (I understand a little off is a long way off in this scenio). When I check timing with timing light my pulse isn;t reading anywhere on the scaled printed on the flywheel.

Looking for guidance and suggestions- or more helpful would be a local mechanic that can actually work on this thing. All the current "techs" are younger than the motor and have informed me it isn't worth anything. Plus (one actually told me this) can't hook his computer up so no way to figure out what's wrong

[99yam40]

does the flywheel have TDC marked for each cylinder?
use a white paint marker to make those easy to see with a timing light, and then hook timing light to each plug wire to see if any are close to the idle timing.
if they all are way out I would think the CDI has gone bad.
( am guessing the CDI is what controls the timing)
if just some of the cylinders are out of time ,maybe the pulsar coils that tell it when to fire may have a problem,

also can you look again to see what motor you have?
There is no such thing as a 1993 225 TRXX

[panasonic]

You have the timing light hooked to #1 plug wire?

[bigdummy]

Timing light hooked to what I assume is #1 cylinder (uppermost cylinder when viewing the motor from behind)

Did not check other plug wires/cylinder with timing light- I will do that later today. Flywheel does have several white markings and (I believe) does indicate a cylinder number for these markings.

This evening I plan on trying to mess with his motor a little more. I'll check the individual cylinders for timing and double check the data tags on mounting brackets to verify I am giving accurate engine information about the engine model

Everyone;s help is appreciated

[bigdummy]

Back again- not had much time to mess with boat.
Recheck timing, (different timing light- seems one I was using had a certain "quirk" to get repeatable reading) seems to be fine.

Had a friend go through carbs again (he is independent now but worked as a certified Yamaha mechanic for several years), re-installed carbs , they're leaking. Two bowls leak at main jets, two other bowls have fuel weeping from "somewhere".

I reinstalled carb one evening, pumped up fuel, did not start motor. Came out next morning and noticed the two main jet leaks. Removed them and reluctantly put some gasket sealer on them and reinstalled. Started motor and ran for probably 20 second. Left for the day.

Return next morning, fuel weeping from other carbs and one of the main jets. These all seem to be coming from the bowls, not out of throats. Motor is left in down position.

My question, I assume the metal "gaskets" around the brass screws and jets are not sealing properly. Is this a common issue with Yamaha carbs? Should I put a sealer on these? Would rubber o-rings help. I realize I will be pulling these carbs off AGAIN (see a pattern developing-here fellas? I case you didn't figure it out by now I'm no mechanic). but would really like this to be the last time. If I knew of a place to send these out for repair I would. Locally all the old school mechanics are retired and the new generation is only interested in selling me a new motor

[99yam40]

could this motor be a 225TXRR?

look at this a tell what part number you are calling a main jet.
it shows a gasket and oring on the main jet

Yamaha Outboard 1993 OEM Parts Diagram for CARBURETOR | Boats.net

[bigdummy]

It is part number 15 . Fuel appears to be coming out of the center of that part, yet I cannot see light through the jet from the end, nor can I run a piece of mono through, bottoms out right about where the o-ring is.
This is not instantaneous, I put carbs on, leave for 30-45 minutes and there will be a small (less than a size of a dime) moist spot on the paper towel I place under to check for weepage/leak. On occasion there is an air bubble in the center hole of the jet

My next door neighbor has owned Yamaha's since the early 90's (and still runs his own carb'ed 150) and has always done his own maintenance. He commented he's never seen this scenario before.

I took all brass plugs and the main jet out and resealed. Motor runs much better, especially at idle, but still has a surging, and at times a sudden increase or decrease in rpm (about 4-500 rpms). Also motor was turning 5700, got it to 5200 yesterday and sporadically and would surge to 5700 for a split second.

Also, regarding the throttle position sensor. Are tall as sensitive as mine? In order to get the prescribed .50 ohm reading, I have to set adjustment slightly out of spec, and once I fully tighten the screws it ends up in spec. This process takes multiple attempts to land where it needs to be.

[bigdummy]

Oh, and by the way- it is a TXRR- not sure why I keep getting that wrong, but thanks for getting that part straight!

[BQUICK]

Have you replaced the jet o-rings?

[bigdummy]

No- will standard O-rings work (the black nitrile ones from an assortment from an automotive shop). Don' t recall seeing replacements in rebuild kits- I will double check as I have saved all parts. I will also double check them with a magnifying glass.

Just went out and checked motor, motor was run yesterday afternoon for about 5 minutes and boat was pulled out of the water. All carb throats have what appears to be two cycle oil in them. Can't say whether this is new or not as normally I have the airbox on.

I really need to find a mechanic! This would be a great winter project for them.

[BQUICK]

No....they need to be a little fatter and gas resistant.....there was someone selling the correct ones on EBAY at a good price......