How to pull out a frozen bearing housing. 50 hp /89

[bogunnar]

I have a 50hp-89. Water in oil coming through water pump seals. I want to disassemble the LU to check bearings etc. I had to drill and split the cover nut, but now I cannot get the bearing hsg out. I made two "puller hooks" from 10 mm bolts (as shown in many Youtube wideos) and have them pulling from prop shaft end. It is not moving at all.
Next is heat and hammer. Here I need help. Where to heat and how much? Is it most likely to be stuck in the front part of the bearing hsg and in that case how far from rear end of LU housing is this? Any way to check I am not overheating the LU housing. What kind of grease/anti-corrosion paste shall I use during assembly to avoid/delay freezing?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #52, (carrier) is obviously what your pulling out:

1989 50ESF Yamaha Outboard LOWER DRIVE 1 Diagram and Parts

I don't know if on that model any part of the shifter has to come out(some do).

If not, I had the same issue with SUZUKI 140 LU. I probably had 100 ft lbs on the puller initially.

What we did was use a good heat gun (and that thing got extremely hot). We'd spray PB blaster inside to try and loosen any built up crap on the case.

Then heat the case all around where the carrier EXTERIOR touches the LU itself. Ours was hot enough, you could NOT touch the case. Have a friend help, ours was definitely a two person job..

A couple of medium blows, with load on the puller, to the puller bolt and it popped and came out.. Don't worry about cooking the seals, your going to replace them anyway.

We had our case welded so I cleaned it super clean with brake cleaner. They like LU oil on the the seals. On the inner housing, I used (after painting) Yamaha's waterproof grease, just a light layer on the cleaned aluminum. So far, its been good...

Wait till someone chimes in about the possible removal of the shifter.

And good luck. Your set up there should be fine.

[bajakeith]

Bearing Carrier's

They can be a Bitch !! heat and a whack with a dead blow hammer helps.. Assemble with two stroke or LU oil, checking prop seals carefully on removel and install. most are back to back and in the cavity between fill with a GOOD marine grease..I use OMC's Triple guard, as its the stickest,bestest marine grease out there for most app's..why did Rude's run at all ?? good chem's !! "that's their's a joke son"

[rodbolt17]

my tool of choice?
the one I had a local machine shop build.

it a simple coupler.
my slide hammer threads on one end and the prop shaft threads on the other.

remove the shift shaft before attempting to pull the carrier/shaft assy.

and I use oxy actelyne and lots of it.
oh, remove the water intake screens.

[bajakeith]

I must be loseing it !!

Come to think of it I have the same thing,, two big nuts welded together and surfaced at the machine shop, and screw's on my slide hammer that does a lot of sitting in a box,,But the one I had made is for a Volvo 280.. which makes good reason,,with out question the best built lwr end ever and run for many,many,many years and getting "That" bearing carrier out takes skill,luck,finess and a lot of cussing !! any one here know what a "morgan knocker" is ??

[99yam40]

Here is something I rigged up to pull a 2000 C60 carrier and shaft out.
pic on post #20
Not sure if yours would be the same as it is a lift-push shift shaft not the turn type like the C60, but I think it would be.

plywood,large washers, couplings,etc for spacers, and then used the prop nut to screw down to get the shaft and carrier to pop loose and slide out without heat


http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...tml#post104452

[boscoe99]

my tool of choice?
the one I had a local machine shop build.

it a simple coupler.
my slide hammer threads on one end and the prop shaft threads on the other.

remove the shift shaft before attempting to pull the carrier/shaft assy.

and I use oxy actelyne and lots of it.
oh, remove the water intake screens.

Read and heed.

[bogunnar]

I made it!


I dont like to use a slide hammer if the roller/ ball bearing involved may be reused.
There was no traces of metall on the magnetic drain plug so I asume gears are in god condition. Bearing races have no visible pitting, but are misscolored due to saltwater introsion. I will give it a god clean up, inspection and if it looks okey, put it all back again. I have one doubt thou. My Clymer mention schims, but I have not seen them yet. A gear like this is normaly schimed to give best contact between gear, but Clymer dont mention how to do it. Under the zinkanod there are hand carved figures/numbers. This was obviosly meassurements done att factory to deside schim thicknesses.

In the housing where the o-rings has been seated there are very miner corrosin pittings. Do you recommend using Loctite silicon sealant here?
Above mentioned OMC's Triple guard perhaps can do the job, but is hard to find over here, but Ebay is a possibility.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Is the sealing surface(s) ITSELF pitted?

Pitting "inside" or "outside" of the seal won't make a difference.

The O ring itself its whats separating the oil from the water.. As you can see, its a very tight fit and when assembling should be spotless clean.

Grease for your prop shaft/prop will work fine too... its simply to make it a little easier assembling..


I greased the inside (after painting) the Sazuk (mentioned above) as the case was welded and I had to grind DOWN the inner case to get the carrier to fit... It was on its second weld job and was NOT terribly found.

Re- gear lash, if you have the spec's for that LU, PM me and I'll send you some literature on how to do check, adjust it... Its similar to the setting up of new gears in a rear wheel drive differential but quite so complicated(no crush bearings/drag factor, etc..)

[bogunnar]

Thank you Scott. It isn't pitted where o-ring is seated but close to. Anyhow I will pressure test it frequently in future. I will give my Clymer a go before I contact you. I have worked a lot on differentials but they where heavy truck sizes up to 150 ton Euclid's and I could see what I was doing.

Thanks again,
Bo Gunnar

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thank you Scott. It isn't pitted where o-ring is seated but close to. Anyhow I will pressure test it frequently in future. I will give my Clymer a go before I contact you. I have worked a lot on differentials but they where heavy truck sizes up to 150 ton Euclid's and I could see what I was doing.

Thanks again,
Bo Gunnar

Your welcome.

My F150 manual calls for corrosive resistant grease.

I sent you a PM re pressure tests, etc too..

[throrope]

my tool of choice?
the one I had a local machine shop build.

it a simple coupler.
my slide hammer threads on one end and the prop shaft threads on the other.

remove the shift shaft before attempting to pull the carrier/shaft assy.

and I use oxy actelyne and lots of it.
oh, remove the water intake screens.

After I gave up, I think Joe's Marine Service in Wanchese used the same tool on mine. That reminds me, I think I'm due for service.