Boat mounted fuel water seperator replacement

[boscoe99]

The Racors that I am talking about are over 20 bucks a pop:

S3228SUL RACOR FUEL FILTER

The Yam filters are not as expensive but close:

YAMAHA MARINE FUEL/WATER SEPARATING FILTER

In the scheme of boating 20 bucks is not much. I just hate the thought of throwing away a perfectly good filter.

And if the vacuum gauge/filter minder saved me a day on the water that would otherwise have been lost, then it will have paid for itself many times over. I had to drive 350 miles to get to my boat. Last thing I wanted was to have a day on the briney blue disrupted by a clogged filter. With the gauge I instantly knew the status of the filter.

And I was using the two micron filter for better filtration. So, I had a bit more concern as to how quickly the filter element might clog up. Yamaha tries to scare folks off as to the use of the two micron filter. It will be junk in their eyes until they decide to offer one, then it will be the cats meow.

Is the gauge essential? No. Can it fail? Yes. Was it worth it to me? Yes. Will it be worth it to others? Only for them to decide.

[zenoahphobic]

probably used that cheap kit with the plastic oil pressure line.

yep was a common autozone waste of money.

had you gone with a PROPER copper line with a strain relief it probably would have lasted much longer.

my 2500 4X4 chevy made it from 87 to 2005 (294K on the odometer) with no issues.

my choice would have been an electric sender/gauge with no oil line.

Yep we live and learn.

Had the occasion even with copper pipe a guage began to leak because the chamber cracks from all the flexing.

Only ruined suit trousers from that one, but the extra behind under dash lubrication caused a headache to clean up.

[rodbolt17]

ever noticed on autos/trucks that used copper tubing from the factory had a strain relief that very few hotrodders ever thought about.
it simply consisted of 4 to 6 loops just prior to any fitting.
takes the strain off the compression fitting and helps prevent cracking.
never seen one with a proper strain relief crack or leak.

[bajakeith]

Guage

I would never install a Vac gauge for a outboard system...And never,,ever use telflon tape or RTV on anything outboard...and the only hose camps should be a OeTiker or zip tie that has a rounded head...not a worm screw type clamp...Grrr

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would never install a Vac gauge for a outboard system...And never,,ever use telflon tape or RTV on anything outboard...and the only hose camps should be a OeTiker or zip tie that has a rounded head...not a worm screw type clamp...Grrr

[zenoahphobic]

The clamp pictured, although I would agree are good, they in fact are actually no different to a "screw" type.
That is, there is a loose spot. I think the trick is with any clamp they have to precisely match the hose diameter. I think a "failing" of screw clamps is that it is very rigid near the thread, and that they can be overtightened , not so with the pictured one. You can clamp all you like with pliers to the point you bust the whole thing(with a lot of force), sought of self limiting designed into the shape.
Seen plenty of these in irrigation and water plumbing , but never in manufacturer automotive/ fuel application

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The clamp pictured, although I would agree are good, they in fact are actually no different to a "screw" type.
That is, there is a loose spot. I think the trick is with any clamp they have to precisely match the hose diameter. I think a "failing" of screw clamps is that it is very rigid near the thread, and that they can be overtightened , not so with the pictured one. You can clamp all you like with pliers to the point you bust the whole thing(with a lot of force), sought of self limiting designed into the shape.
Seen plenty of these in irrigation and water plumbing , but never in manufacturer automotive/ fuel application

Those clamps are made in many different sizes and were standard on Evinrunde/Johnson engines for fuel systems for MANY years. That's where I saw them initially MANY years ago..

You can't over tighten them as they'll stop clamping down at a certain point.

I just had the fuel hose off my primer bulb yesterday checking the condition of the inner hose and for and debris in the bulb. I have two of those clamps on each end of the bulb and under the cowl.

If you look at the hose where it clamps, the hose is "indented" equally around. And there is still a "click or two left" but wouldn't go anymore as it was tight

They've been on the boat since for at least a decade and still look / work as new (the boat is under cover on a lift so no, the sun isn't on it 24/7.

[DennisG01]

Another thing to keep in mind, in regards to clamps, is the application that they are being used on. In other words, high or low pressure? A fuel bulb is low pressure. But anything downstream of a high pressure fuel pump is, obviously, high pressure. I do like Oetiker clamps, but for me, using them on a something like a fuel bulb would be WAY overkill. Certainly can't hurt to use them, but isn't necessary - especially if it's something that you regular remove. Heck, on the fuel bulb you could get away with zip ties. But those ratcheting clamps are very nice.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Another thing to keep in mind, in regards to clamps, is the application that they are being used on. In other words, high or low pressure? A fuel bulb is low pressure. But anything downstream of a high pressure fuel pump is, obviously, high pressure. I do like Oetiker clamps, but for me, using them on a something like a fuel bulb would be WAY overkill. Certainly can't hurt to use them, but isn't necessary - especially if it's something that you regular remove. Heck, on the fuel bulb you could get away with zip ties. But those ratcheting clamps are very nice.

Agreed 100%^^^^.

[zenoahphobic]

Those clamps are made in many different sizes and were standard on Evinrunde/Johnson engines for fuel systems for MANY years. That's where I saw them initially MANY years ago..

You can't over tighten them as they'll stop clamping down at a certain point.

I just had the fuel hose off my primer bulb yesterday checking the condition of the inner hose and for and debris in the bulb. I have two of those clamps on each end of the bulb and under the cowl.

If you look at the hose where it clamps, the hose is "indented" equally around. And there is still a "click or two left" but wouldn't go anymore as it was tight

They've been on the boat since for at least a decade and still look / work as new (the boat is under cover on a lift so no, the sun isn't on it 24/7.

I've never seen them on Evinrude/Johnston motors here? I'll have to go and pull a few peoples Johno's covers off and look. No evinrudes for decades here but my father and a mate had that brand.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never seen them on Evinrude/Johnston motors here? I'll have to go and pull a few peoples Johno's covers off and look. No evinrudes for decades here but my father and a mate had that brand.

Prior to this Yamaha (my FIRST and first 4 stroke) my first new engine was a 1980 Force 75 HP, had one mercury with a hole in the head from the combustion chamber to the water jacket(a freebie I fixed).

The rest of my personal engines since 1979 were all Evinrudes, 75 HP, V4 looper 140, V6 150 (which this F150 replaced). All those Evinrudes had those clamps (all carbed too).

If I knew about RingFree back then, that 150 Evinrude would likely still be on the transom...

My boat before re-power;




After:

[zenoahphobic]

TownsendFJ1300,
I know it has been commented on before, nice setup!
I am trying to retire by the water, they probably would not allow that setup but are amiable to the various floating docks particularly pump ups.
How long does it take you to raise / lower ? And are you able to work on the boat in its raised position?

[bajakeith]

Decarbing VS Ringfree

sorta like apples to grapes !! The Evinrude/Johnson "Engine Tuner" is "recommended" every 50 HRS and at Least once a year..per the can I'm holding..seems a bit much to me..A 100 hrs is what I recommend with the TCH3 which is a long way from the early oil's and the curve zip ties I use is part #320107 but don't see a mfg brand..possible merc.. I go thru about a 100 a season..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

TownsendFJ1300,
I know it has been commented on before, nice setup!
I am trying to retire by the water, they probably would not allow that setup but are amiable to the various floating docks particularly pump ups.
How long does it take you to raise / lower ? And are you able to work on the boat in its raised position?

Thank you...

I keep it raised up ALL the way just to keep it out of the sun. When launching, it might take 6 minutes to fully lower and the boats floating. With the extensions attached to the lift cradle and my "walk arounds"(painted), I can do all the maintenance EXCEPT LU oil change. I can R&R the LU(for say WP change) on the 4 post lift too (got a set up for that..)

For the LU oil change, two options.
(1)I have a 4' x 8' floating "work dock" (not very stable) and can put that under the LU and change. See below:

(2)I have davits (installed way before the 4 post lift in) I can put the boat on solid ground. (there's another davit just above where I'm taking the picture)


This pic was taken over this summer after I built the float..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

sorta like apples to grapes !! The Evinrude/Johnson "Engine Tuner" is "recommended" every 50 HRS and at Least once a year..per the can I'm holding..seems a bit much to me..A 100 hrs is what I recommend with the TCH3 which is a long way from the early oil's and the curve zip ties I use is part #320107 but don't see a mfg brand..possible merc.. I go thru about a 100 a season..

I was having issues with the Evinrude as I didn't use it enough.

Cleaned the carbs twice in two weeks due to varnishing/sitting. I've since found an excellent stabilizer and the RF works great.

I didn't know about either back then and didn't trust the motor. The marina, after I cleaned the carbs the second time recommended "Gas Shok" which helped alot. I never had to pull the carbs apart again. This is all around 2005..

I run the RF regularly in the Yamaha along with K100, NO issues at all with that mix...