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  • 225VX Overheat

    New water pump + impeller + gaskets and housing. New poppet valve. No tell tale water stream. Overheat alarm never activates while running. Run motor for 90-120 seconds at idle on muffs...no tell tale...stop motor...flush with hose...water flows from tell tale...attempt to restart motor...high heat alarm at "ON" position before "START". Wait a few minutes. Turn key to "ON". No high heat alarm. Remove thermostats just to see if water is getting to them...nope. Nothing but steam. Head gaskets appear fine. My questions...

    - what is the path of the water from the water pump, through the engine, then out of the engine via the tell tale?
    - how do I test the new water pump to verify that its working and there is no blockage between the water pump and the powerhead?
    - does the fact that water flows through the tell tale when flushing with the hose indicate that the water passages are clear?
    - i did not flush the motor with the hose while the thermostats were off.
    - what role does the water temperature sensor play?
    - what role does the thermo switch play?

    I will test the thermostats tonight, but I can't imagine that is my problem as there is no water even making it TO the thermostats. Water pump probably needed to be replaced due to time...its been 2 years since it was last serviced and the boat has sat in storage for a year. Poppet valve was replaced due to age...the motor is 20 years old and the poppet valve has never been replaced. Simple enough job and relatively cheap maintenance IMO. That said, I don't want to simply throw money at the problem until I fix it. I'd like to understand exactly WHY the motor doesn't seem to getting any water.

    Any advice welcome. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Take the lower unit off and connect a hose directly to water pipe in the leg. That will tell you if the blockage is in the engine block or not. Report back.

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    • #3
      Just to let you know the tell tale is not after the water goes thru the motor

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      • #4
        Are the vanes of the pump installed correctly in the housing?

        IE: turn the driveshaft Clockwise while slipping the housing down on to the impeller..

        (The vanes won't reverse if installed backwards)


        .
        Scott
        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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        • #5
          Originally posted by panasonic View Post
          Take the lower unit off and connect a hose directly to water pipe in the leg. That will tell you if the blockage is in the engine block or not. Report back.
          Sorry for the delay in responding. Problem solved....well...not exactly solved, but I was able to successfully test. Before I went to the trouble of removing the lower unit and testing for blockages, I went with the hypothesis that my motor simply didn't like the muffs. I went to Tractor Supply and bought a 100 gallon horse trough...filled it up and put the motor in it. In less than 10 seconds, the tell tale was streaming better than it ever did before. This is likely due to a new water pump replacing the old one that had some melting/deformation present in the housing.

          Fortune cuts both ways however. In the troubleshooting starting several days ago, I removed the cowling. I happened to have the cowling off when I put the motor in the horse trough full of water. I noticed a slight leak coming from bottom of the rectifier. Its the tube that connects near the poppet valve. I've seen a previous post from Rodbolt17 suggesting that this is a water cooled rectifier and that these plates/gaskets wear out over time. Question...Is there in fact a gasket or seal? When I look at the exploded parts diagram for this motor called "Electrical 3" I find an exploded diagram of the regulator/rectifier. Part #22 says "Plate, Rectifier Fitting". Part #23 says is that part that has the two water connections and it says "Cover, Rectifier". Question...Is Part#22 what Rodbolt17 might have been referring to as the "gasket"? Question...which is the likely culprit? Question...do I have to remove the entire junction box to then remove the rectifier/regulator?
          Last edited by Aggiedave; 10-04-2023, 12:09 PM.

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          • #6
            A real complete motor model # would help us look up what you are seeing
            225Vx would not get there

            or even a link to the parts breakdown you are looking at

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            • #7
              https://www.crowleymarine.com/yamaha...z/electrical-3

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              • #8
                so it is a 2001 Outboard 225hp - VX225TLRZ
                write that down and remember to post that info when asking about you motor in the future

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                • #9
                  Looks like a gasket to me...see picture in link.


                  https://www.yamahaonlineparts.com/ya...ect-fitng.html


                  ​​​​​​​

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