2014 F9.9XPB cold start issues

[99yam40]

Yamacop: No I did not! mainly because his last statement wasn't posted when I made my comment. The order in which they are shown may not be correct.
Whats your problem ?? Seems you are more interested in troubleshooting folks on this forum than troubleshooting their problems.

A simple no I did not read it would have been all that was needed


or given some info that would have answered a question would have helped the thread
like explained how or what that starter rod was attached to

[boscoe99]

Where in the heck is Rodnut? I am thinking that "starter" rod is really part of the accelerator pump.

Another question might be, why do some Yam carbs have accelerator pumps and some apparently do not? Or, do they all have them?

[rodbolt17]

best I recall the starter rod is the linkage between the choke soliniod and the choke lever.

gotta member its all translated from a language that's neither redneck nor anglishs.

but that carb works JUST like that old Hercules or the Q jet.
other than the Q jet used an automatic choke,of the intragal or divorced design, the dang things work the SAME.

outboard motor manufactures have spent untold millions on R&D cause idiots cant figure out that human interaction may be involved in cold starts.

years ago when we all drove cars with carbs, it was pump the gas, at least 2 or three times.
crank it.
hope the fast idle worked but it usually did not.

then manually mash the throttle and restart it and MANUALLY keep that beach running until it would idle on its own.

why boaters cannot fathom they may actually need to interact with the mechanics of cold starts is way beyond me.

however its actually fairly simple.

pump the throttle a couple times, this adds some extra juice.
leave the throttle advanced enough so it lights off at about 1500 RPM.
engage the choke prior to starting cause on this model there is no prime start.

this model actually makes the operator think and interact or it simply wont start.

yes Virginia it is that simple.

[jimbruce]

Hello,
Well problem solved. Seems that when I started my questions I somehow knew I would have to eat some humble pie when I finally dove in and looked harder at it. This was a little unusual but new really that hard to find and solve. I just been so busy lately I did not that take time.
So there is nothing wrong with the motor, carb, choke coil or design. It works perfectly. What was wrong was that when we, my brother and I, ordered this boat from Duckworth we had it pre rigged for the a 9.9 kicker and complete remote controls a the helm. They made a new bracket and mounted it under the main engine controls and also mounted the key through the bracket which also has a layer of carpet. Sounds ok but the key switch mounting nut did not thread down very far so the mounting nut interfered with the shroud on the key its self. As such it would not depress in for enough to engage the electric choke unless you really pushed on it.
So I took a utility knife and shave about .060” off the shroud and now it works like it was intended.
All I can say is DUH!!!
Thanks for all your input and help.

Again sorry for my posting goof ups

[boscoe99]

Thanks for the update. Glad you solved your problem and that it was simple.

[boscoe99]

best I recall the starter rod is the linkage between the choke soliniod and the choke lever.

gotta member its all translated from a language that's neither redneck nor anglishs.

but that carb works JUST like that old Hercules or the Q jet.
other than the Q jet used an automatic choke,of the intragal or divorced design, the dang things work the SAME.

outboard motor manufactures have spent untold millions on R&D cause idiots cant figure out that human interaction may be involved in cold starts.

years ago when we all drove cars with carbs, it was pump the gas, at least 2 or three times.
crank it.
hope the fast idle worked but it usually did not.

then manually mash the throttle and restart it and MANUALLY keep that beach running until it would idle on its own.

why boaters cannot fathom they may actually need to interact with the mechanics of cold starts is way beyond me.

however its actually fairly simple.

pump the throttle a couple times, this adds some extra juice.
leave the throttle advanced enough so it lights off at about 1500 RPM.
engage the choke prior to starting cause on this model there is no prime start.

this model actually makes the operator think and interact or it simply wont start.

yes Virginia it is that simple.

I can also remember an automatic choke where you would pump the throttle a couple of times and then push the pedal all the way to the floor. This was to set the choke and fast idle. It had a duct to the exhaust manifold. When a damper got hot enough it would open and provide hot air to the choke mechanism. This would heat it up and take it out of the choke mode.

Now I also remember having a car with a pull-to-choke knob on the dash. Worked great unless and until you forgot to take off the choke. Once the motor warmed up if the choke was still engaged you would trail black smoke while heading down the road.

You turned the key to the on position. You then pressed a starter button adjacent to the key switch.

A black 1948 Plymouth business coupe referred to as the "Cooter". Damn I should have held onto that car. Bought it for $125 and sold it for $125.

Had points and plugs which had to be adjusted damn near all of the time. Six volt system. Small tiny tail lamps. All manual everything. Ahhh the good old days.

[rodbolt17]

my dads old 52 GMC you turned the key,pulled out the choke and depressed the accelerator all the way down to engage the starter switch.
dads old 32 buick with the old straight 8 you had to set the magneto control,set the accelerator control,engage the starter hanle into the crank snout and twist the handle with some authority.

our neighbors JD tractor was similar but had a huge flywheel on the side you had to rotate.

back in the days before modern EFI and electronic ignitions and controls you dang near had to be a mechanic to go get groceries.