1993 F115. Ignition key provides low voltage to starter solenoid.

[Iyamhappy]

You might want to disconnect the ten pin harness at the motor end and check for any corrosion that may be on any of the pins and/or sockets.

Test the voltage at the brown wire terminal and see if you also have .4 volts there. Presumption being that when you check for voltage at the solenoid that the solenoid was NOT connected.

Thanks. Yes, I pulled the brown wire connection from solenoid, hooked up a DC voltmeter to the brown wire from switch ( actually from neutral switch, and ran the black prong of the voltmeter back the the negative of the battery. It had no voltage and when I turned the key it red 0.4 V. I checked the voltmeter across the battery and got 12.4 V. Just for more info, the boat is used in fresh water.

[99yam40]

Off to a bad start. Your note says 2003. ( in post #6 ). It’s a 1993 as my original note says. I appreciate the help.

yep we both messed up

the battery negative could be a bad connection also, so keep that in mind when testing
do not depend on the cable itself, measure to the battery post itself

[Iyamhappy]

Here is some info from the owners manual that was printed in 1991. The square at the top describes the ignition switch. There is some useful data there. I take the red wire is hot with 12 volts. Black is ground. Brown goes to the solenoid ( through the neutral switch) to momentarily give the solenoid power while cranking. Not sure about yellow and white yet.


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[99yam40]

yellow is key on power and wihte is kill the spark.

[Iyamhappy]

Thanks everyone. Tomorrow I’ll disconnect the red, hook up the battery and check for 12 V. If that checks out, I’ll reconnect the red and turning the key, I’ll check for power again at the connector for the solenoid, and on both sides of the kill switch. The switch is in the closed position right now with the gear in neutral. Before I power up I’ll check the resistance on it. I’ll also do a few checks for proper ground. I’ll report back.

[99yam40]

Thanks everyone. Tomorrow I’ll disconnect the red, hook up the battery and check for 12 V. If that checks out, I’ll reconnect the red and turning the key, I’ll check for power again at the connector for the solenoid, and on both sides of the kill switch. The switch is in the closed position right now with the gear in neutral. Before I power up I’ll check the resistance on it. I’ll also do a few checks for proper ground. I’ll report back.

Key switch in off position and Kill switch just takes white to black to ground out spark. no 12V + to it.

check both sides of the neutral switch with the key in the start position, that will tell if the key switch is sending 12 v to it and if the neutral switch is letting it go thru

And as Boscoe mentioned this is probably a 1992 C115 TLRQ not a 1993
it is a good idea to give the complete model info so others know what you have.

[Iyamhappy]

Did several checks. I’m getting 12 volts to the front and back of the neutral switch when I turn the key. Once again I ran a wire from the brown wire where is disconnects from the solenoid back to the negative of the battery and it shows 12 V when I turn the switch instead of 0.4 V like before. I also checked the ground from the solenoid back to end the battery cable. It’s good.

I’ll see if I can turn it over tomorrow. The temp right now is 95 F, and with my full tank the gasoline expanded and a bit spilled out. There’s a lot of gas vapour in the air, I cleaned it up and will check in the morning.

No real explanation yet. I know I had power at the main positive and negative terminals of the solenoid when I was trying to turn it over. I’m going to carry a long jumper wire to apply positive voltage from the battery direct to the solenoid to activate it without the use of the key should it happen again. I’ll report back if it turns over tomorrow.

[Iyamhappy]

I hooked up the power and turned the key. The motor turned over. Not sure what the problem was when it would not start. One thing I have been doing is taking the ground cable off the battery while doing various checks. However when I had the issue I still had power to the trim on the engine as well as a hot positive and a good ground on the solenoid. I’ll check the block where the positive cable distributes power to all the other wires including the red wire to the key assembly. Thanks for everyone’s help.

[Iyamhappy]

I opened the distribution box to check that the red wire had had a good connection. It did.

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