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1993 F115. Ignition key provides low voltage to starter solenoid.

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  • 1993 F115. Ignition key provides low voltage to starter solenoid.

    I have no response when I turn the ignition key. I checked the solenoid and it will function if I apply 12 V from the positive side of the battery to the solenoid. The engine will turn over.

    I checked the voltage from the brown wire that connects to the solenoid and it shows 0.4 V when the key is turned. The ground from the solenoid is good. I also replaced the solenoid with a spare new one and bench tested both units. They function correctly and produce a good solid “ click”. I’m suspecting the key switch, but anyone have any other thoughts? Thanks.
    Last edited by Iyamhappy; 08-14-2023, 09:13 AM.

  • #2
    measure the voltage into the keyswitch and coming out of it.
    that will tell you if the problem is before, in it, or after the switch.
    the start circuit goes thru the neutral start switch also

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    • #3
      "1993 F115. Ignition key provides low voltage to starter solenoid."

      There is no 1993 F115. What is the complete ID for your motor?

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      • #4
        Whoops C115Q

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        • #5
          The remote control is a Yamaha 703.

          0BBDBEFD-857D-4ACE-9FD6-E59E52BA154D.jpegB367A78F-F1DA-4484-B923-93D7EB396FAF.jpeg

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          • #6
            do you think you can point out what the motor is on this place?
            I do not see a 2003 C115 Q there
            Yamaha - Outboard - 115HP OEM Parts | Boats.net
            Last edited by 99yam40; 08-14-2023, 06:47 PM.

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            • #7
              Not 2013, 1993. Thanks.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Iyamhappy View Post
                Not 2013, 1993. Thanks.
                who said anything about a 2013?
                check you reading glasses

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                • #9
                  Off to a bad start. Your note says 2003. ( in post #6 ). It’s a 1993 as my original note says. I appreciate the help.

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                  • #10
                    Here is what I am guessing.

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                    • #11
                      I split the case apart by undoing the screws. Here is the switch in full view. I see the brown wire goes through what I believe is the neutral switch so I’ll have to check that. The brown wires that look broken are actually soldered to the terminals on the switch. I wonder if that was a previous repair.

                      0FD49635-973E-4FB0-8CD9-0136B6F67F84.jpeg784CCF0C-9252-40D3-9E8A-F961B4A6CE9E.jpegD582D2D9-BCEA-498D-BA1C-86172B385B85.jpeg
                      Last edited by Iyamhappy; 08-14-2023, 09:29 PM.

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                      • #12
                        You might want to disconnect the ten pin harness at the motor end and check for any corrosion that may be on any of the pins and/or sockets.

                        Test the voltage at the brown wire terminal and see if you also have .4 volts there. Presumption being that when you check for voltage at the solenoid that the solenoid was NOT connected.

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                        • #13
                          More connections to check.


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                          • #14
                            Yep. A bastardized repair on the neutral safety switch. It come from the factory with bullet connectors.

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                            • #15
                              Thank God for the FAA.

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