welding the alloy

[FabricGATOR]

Good day folks,

The search terms I used before wasting everyone's time: Welding; welding lower; alloy; weld alloy;

I am surprised that I didn't find my answer...

Can someone advise what the SX150TXRY year 2000 lower unit alloy is for welding?

Any advice or direction would also be beneficial and greatly appreciated. I know that a lot of what succeeds in this type of operation is weighed heavily on both the operator (weld technician) and the equipment.

I have a chunk knocked off the leading edge of the skeg that is about and inch below the bullet. My brother who is an accomplished marine welder is bringing his tig equipment. We both know that sometimes a weld repair like this can grow / run away.

Knowing the alloy and using the correct filler material for that alloy (as well as conditions, cleanliness, contamination) can make or break a repair.

Thank you and have a great week!

[robert graham]

I knocked a thumbnail chunk out of the leading edge of my skeg just below the bullet...just about the same as you, and it's not a structurally important area....so I just cleaned it up with a file and fashioned a blob of JB Weld into the missing chunk area, let it set up, file, grind, sand to blend, a coat of gunmetal blue spray paint and it's as good as new....and that's been about 5 years ago!....lot less cost$$/trouble than welding...

[FabricGATOR]

Hey Robert,
Thank you. I have thought of that and maybe the way I go.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This doesn't answer you question exactly but should help;

Here's a thread I made up re some serious welding to a cracked Suzuki LU

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...u-th25399.html

We had the aluminum prop cleaned up and found (duh), the guy welding the fine edges of an aluminum prop could / would have welded the case, probably with better results...

**I didn't have any damage (short of scruffed off paint to my skeg) but eventually installed a genuine Skeggard protector; http://skeggard.com/

I did have it custom made with the drain on the left rear on the unit (vs the front leading edge).

Its EXTREMELY WELL made, fits like a glove, no more re-painting the skeg.

I did loose approx 1 MPH on the top end (around 45MPH), but its well worth it IMO....

I would simply install the Skeggard after painting the LU and be done with it.

(it will cover your damage from what you posted) Holler back if you want pic's of it installed..

[FabricGATOR]

Thanks Scott,
I had read that one yesterday before posting this question.
I am also aware that they can/will/do deposit welding on the LE of the propellers and then machine them back to true. Neat stuff.

I saw on THT a guy that had his bullet cracked and ran it back to the mooring. One more strike and he would have lost the whole gear carrier along with his propeller. I think (hope) he ended up replacing the casting. His was too far gone.

I ride the FJR1300AW here in Stuart Florida...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks Scott,
I had read that one yesterday before posting this question.
I am also aware that they can/will/do deposit welding on the LE of the propellers and then machine them back to true. Neat stuff.

I saw on THT a guy that had his bullet cracked and ran it back to the mooring. One more strike and he would have lost the whole gear carrier along with his propeller. I think (hope) he ended up replacing the casting. His was too far gone.

I ride the FJR1300AW here in Stuart Florida...

Cool!

BTW, do you have helmet locks for the FJR? I design, manufacture helmet lock brackets for ALL year FJRs (including the ES) and most BMW's, the Kawasaki Concours and several others. Anything under "Easy Helmet lock" is mine (my distributor); http://pirateslair.net/HelmetlockS.htm

I don't miss the heat from my old "04 heater" but loved the bike...


Gen II and III's(many more options with or without electrical outlets)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's a pic of my Skeggard on my F150;