OEM oil filter and fuel

[threeputt]

I have a 2005 115 Yamaha four stroke that I need to order the correct parts for. I thought I had my engine family number but I cannot find it listed here. The numbers are 5YMXM1-742-GA. I found another number showing 68v-13437-40. I need to order the OEM oil filter and fuel filter. I am not sure if this engine has the water separator filter or not but I can look. I also need the oil drain gasket in case mine needs replacing. I have always just found it better to purchase OEM filters but that's just me. It is fuel injected and I have started to winterize it but wanted to get the oil and filter changed first. I fogged the cylinders and the spark plugs look great. I have also changed the lower unit oil so I am good to go with that. I also want to replace the fuel tank sending unit. This Harris FloteBote has a 50 gal tank and the only sending unit that will work is one that goes straight down in thank and swivels at the bottom of tank. I tried the one that swivels at the top and it will not work because of the way the tank is made. Need suggestions on which one to purchase. The tank is 24 inches deep. Thanks for any help. Tom

[99yam40]

Model # will be on the clamp bracket.
Post it when asking about your motor

[threeputt]

I called myself looking but when I get back to my shop Thursday I will post the correct numbers. I would like to purchase the original tank unit if possible but not sure what to look for in way of numbers. I know it has to go down and then out 90 degrees at the bottom of tank in order for it to work. I found out the hard way on the other universal one that I was told would work.
I will look and post all model numbers I find.. It has a NAPA **** oil filter on it now but I still would like to use the OEM. I think I found the fuel filter number I need.

ELEMENT, FILTER

6R3-24563-00-00 $9.23
Not sure if this boat has a water separator filter but I will look this week when I go back to my shop. Thanks

[threeputt]

Here are the numbers I found
F115 TLRD
68V 1039738

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yamaha sells oil change kits that include the filter, gasket and all the oil for my F150.

I suspect they probably have it for yours as well.

The gasket that came with my last kit was solid aluminum, not the one time, thin crush gasket. (no leaks with that new gasket style BTW). And it torques down immediatly...

[fairdeal]

that fuel filter # is correct per the boats.net page

the oil filter is ELEMENT ASSY, OIL CLEANER 5GH-13440-00-00 $10.20
found on
2005 F115TLRD Yamaha Outboard CYLINDER CRANKCASE 1 Diagram and Parts

As for your fuel tank sender,

I would suggest you consider a WEMA "reed switch" sender

pricier than a swing-arm type, but far more reliable and robust

[threeputt]

Thanks for the info. I do see a different part number for the fuel filter than I first mentioned. The one I see on boats.net shows part number
68v-24563-00-00 and it is higher in price > $14.15
The 6r3-24560-00-00 shows it fits engine with number115TXRD instead on the one I have TLRD. Not sure because they both look the same in the picture but I guess I should order the one that fits this engine ????

Also can you recommend a part number for the fuel sender you showed and where I can order it from ? or is that the part number you showed, if so where do I order that one from ? I would be glad to the get Reed type because of all the problems I have had trying to make the other one work. I have my original but I cut the float arm off and not sure what I did with it so I don't know exactly how long it was.

What are your thoughts on using OEM oil filters ? It had a NAPA on it now which was cost much less but I don't want to take chances using an inferior part. Thanks for you feedback on this. Tom

[fairdeal]

the Wema website wemausa.com is very comprehensive and user-friendly

plenty of technical info and you can order directly from them

from their faqs:

"For Fuel/Water senders, the length should be 1" less than the depth of the tank if tank is plastic, and 0.5" less than the depth of the tank if tank is metal. This is to account for possible tank flex."

So you would remove your current sender, and measure the interior depth of the tank with a ruler (of course with caution re fumes & sparks)

Assuming your current gauge is the standard 240-33 ohms it will give you full scale reading -

however -
because boat tanks are not vertical cylinders,

you will have to "discover" the actual relationship between gauge markings and gallons in the tank.

with the boat level and at rest, the gauge readings will be reliable & repeatable

but highly unlikely that the "1/4" etc gauge markings can be taken literally

[boscoe99]

The WEMA sender is electro-mechanical. A better sender than the old float on the end of a stick type but not the best. For not much more money (maybe even less), you can get an all solid state sender. You can buy the sender a few inches longer than needed and then trim it to fit your tank precisely. This is the same design used in a Boeing 787 air plane.

CENTROID PRODUCTS - Computerized Tank Display - Electronic Senders - capacitive fuel gauges

[boscoe99]

Thanks for the info. I do see a different part number for the fuel filter than I first mentioned. The one I see on boats.net shows part number
68v-24563-00-00 and it is higher in price > $14.15
The 6r3-24560-00-00 shows it fits engine with number115TXRD instead on the one I have TLRD. Not sure because they both look the same in the picture but I guess I should order the one that fits this engine ????

Also can you recommend a part number for the fuel sender you showed and where I can order it from ? or is that the part number you showed, if so where do I order that one from ? I would be glad to the get Reed type because of all the problems I have had trying to make the other one work. I have my original but I cut the float arm off and not sure what I did with it so I don't know exactly how long it was.

What are your thoughts on using OEM oil filters ? It had a NAPA on it now which was cost much less but I don't want to take chances using an inferior part. Thanks for you feedback on this. Tom

You indicate that your motor is an F115. F as in Four stroke.

The 6R3-24560-00-00 filter is for a 115. No F as in a two stroke.

I don't have a dog in the hunt when it comes to oil filters. Yamaha does not make their own. It is made by someone else but branded with Yamaha's name. NAPA is known for selling good quality products. I would not have a problem using theirs.

[99yam40]

Seems I remember reading about some filters containing check valves so that all of the oil does not drain out while sitting causing a longer period of time the motor is at low oil pressure.
But I have no idea if the OEM filters or the aftermarket ones for that motor have any of that

[boscoe99]

Only thing that I know for sure is that Yamaha will say their brand is the best and the one that should be used on their motors. Even if the other filter carrying the other brand was made on the same production line and to the same specifications (other than paint and finish) as the Yamaha branded filter.

Exact same filter but

Yamaha branded paint = great filter
Non-Yamaha branded paint = quality of filter is suspect

[threeputt]

fairdeal, thanks for the good info. My tank is 24 inches from bottom to where the unit bolts in. It is a metal 50 gal tank and I am willing to go ahead a purchase the best gas tank unit for this boat. Running out of gas is not fun on a 96 degree day in the middle of the lake. I assume the bolt patterns are all the same ?

I have heard all the debates for years about which oil filter is best and which one is the worst. Never really run into one that did not have the check valve so I will probably just order the NAPA like is on it now.

The oil plug gasket looked great when I changed the oil last season. I am going with the Reed type sending unit for sure. It looks like a big plus to me and no more hanging float. My engine is of course a four-stroke ( F115 TLRD ) and the last fuel filter number I showed is the one for my engine ( 68v-24563-00-00 $14.15 )

Thanks for the good information from all. Tom

[DennisG01]

I think it's a good idea to go with a quality, name brand filter. I'm including NAPA in this, by the way. Last time I bought from them, their "g o l d" line was made by Wix, and those are good filters. This is definitely one of those areas that unless someone does extensive research, it's best just to stay with a "known" good filter. It's just not worth possible damage to your engine to save a few bucks. And, by "extensive" I don't mean relying on what someone finds on a few forums - especially not those "I've never had a problem with X" type of posts.

A few years back, I was comparing some various filters to the Mercury brand that I use on my Mercruiser. I cut them open to look at the guts. Mallory seemed on par with the Merc (which was very robust and well put together on the inside). Sierra was pretty good, too - although a little "lighter" on the inside than the Merc. I looked at two Frams... I will NEVER put one of those on ANYTHING I own! Where other manufacturer's use metal, Fram was using cardboard. The filter media seemed very cheaply attached. On one of them, the pleats had even come apart allowing a huge hole in the filter media!

[rodbolt17]

do yourself a huge favor.
buy a fluid extractor and leave the drain plug ALONE.

I do have a modified drill and heli coil tap that I rethread stripped drain plugs with .
occasionally they get stripped going in, occasionally the AL galls to the plug and the threads come out with the plug.

if you simply suck it out the plug NEVER EVER strips nor leaks.