I think by using a hex cap the height might be higher and having an affect on the tubes height used in an up and down environment. The o ring cap pressure is substantial due to hydraulic pressures needed to raise a heavy motor and when bouncing around on a trailer.I dont think yamaha makes the tilt trim assembly , and at least when I did mine it had a hard yellow gumlike substance on the threads of which I had to remove. It might have been thread lock to keep corrosion off the threads.Not sure what it was though.
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F225TXR PT&T repair
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Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View PostCause a Yamaha isn't a Yamaha...
My fork tube (yes, MC again) aluminum caps, o-ring, steel tubes (pressurized) are spec torqued to 17 Ft lbs..
My oil drain plug on my Yamaha MC is spec'ed to be torqued to 30 ft lbs.
The exact same bolt, (in actually a stouter block) on my F150 is spec'ed to be torqued to 20 ft lbs.. WTH????
I could go on...
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Originally posted by robert graham View PostYep, a hex head cap for T&T very similar to the fork caps on your motorcycle...then a nice hex head spanner( like a socket wrench) and would ease the removal....too simple?....
My fork tube nut is maybe 3/8" tall, but then the torque is low and the top of the fork is pinched in the upper triple clamp(holds both forks, handle bars, etc).
As the T&T caps aren't load bearing, again, why does Yamaha want them so tight? Probably to keep DIY'ers from tackling the job. (have to get the correct tool, know the secret to use it (from slipping off), etc...
And Zeno's above post would back that up. The original Yamaha mono shock suspension, 1977, did use that cap (but were NOT re-buildable buying a kit from Yamaha) but was used in assembly.Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 10-30-2015, 06:58 PM.Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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Also sometimes in hydraulics the very tight
ness of threads is dictated by the pressures encountered. Not to stop something from blowing off but to ensure no fluid gets past the thread at very high pressures (say at situation O ring starts to deteriorate. Fine sprays are sometimes not seen but can penetrate through the skin causing serious health issues.
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Originally posted by BottomsUp View PostInteresting discussion of what I thought would be a simple post and answer! So is the consensus then to apply or not apply anything to the threads to ease with future R&R of the caps?
If your shop manual says other wise, I'd follow that..Scott
1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR
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simple outboard careing
I recommend to all my boat owners, but more in salt, to lighty spray oil on the complete motor and wires,screws,nuts, parts, everything under the cowling and also on the outside to tilt the OB up and spray,spray the rams and seals.. and on some system's the tilt motor too..simple no brainer for giving a motor LOVE...
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Originally posted by bajakeith View PostI recommend to all my boat owners, but more in salt, to lighty spray oil on the complete motor and wires,screws,nuts, parts, everything under the cowling and also on the outside to tilt the OB up and spray,spray the rams and seals.. and on some system's the tilt motor too..simple no brainer for giving a motor LOVE...
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Finished!
Finally got a day off with good weather and the last of my parts and tools arrived as well. Used the 4-stroke Yamaha trim wrench from Moto-Stop (Marine Tools and Accessories | Products) and the PVC pipe (10" length seemed ideal for my F225TXR). Repair went well thanks to all the help from the experts on this site. Would have been a cluster and long learning curve without all the tips in this post and others in this forum. Thanks again! Now I need to get it wet!
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