Yamaha F60LB prop nut kit & torque specs

[dredgerat]

Anyone know what the Yamaha part no. is for a 2023 Yamaha F60LB engine and what the prop nut torque is? The owners manual says 25 ft. pounds but when I took off the aluminum prop that had been put on at the dealership to replace it with a stainless steel one it seemed looser than that. Just wondering.

[DennisG01]

I don't know, but is it a nyloc nut or a castel nut?

Either way, unless it's damaged, there is no reason to replace it. Especially since it's brand new - I wouldn't even replace it (blindly) at 5 years old (or, really, not even at an older age, still).

It may not have been put on to the right torque spec to start with. Or, it just needed the typical "check up" after some use.

[boscoe99]

You might want to familiarize yourself with the Yamaha parts catalog. www.yamahaoutboards.com

[boscoe99]

Anyone know what the Yamaha part no. is for a 2023 Yamaha F60LB engine and what the prop nut torque is? The owners manual says 25 ft. pounds but when I took off the aluminum prop that had been put on at the dealership to replace it with a stainless steel one it seemed looser than that. Just wondering.

Are you sure? Stop and think about what you wrote. You are making a mistake that millions make. Those who either don't know, don't care to know, or are just sloppy.

After decades, Yamaha finally got it right. You might want to consider doing that also.

Maybe panasonic will ring in. Let's see what he has to say.

[99yam40]

get it tight and line up the castle nut to the hole where you can get the cotter pin thru

[dredgerat]

I don't know, but is it a nyloc nut or a castel nut?

Either way, unless it's damaged, there is no reason to replace it. Especially since it's brand new - I wouldn't even replace it (blindly) at 5 years old (or, really, not even at an older age, still).

It may not have been put on to the right torque spec to start with. Or, it just needed the typical "check up" after some use.

The reason I was wanting to know was to order a spare kit in case I ever had to replace the original, it is a bronze castle nut.

[DennisG01]

The reason I was wanting to know was to order a spare kit in case I ever had to replace the original, it is a bronze castle nut.

Ah, thank you. THAT reason I FULLY understand and share!

All that said, I don't doubt some people do torque them - and that is TOTALLY fine - I'm not knocking ANYONE for doing that in any way, shape or form. "For me"... I've put on a couple hundred props and I have never torqued them - although I think most will agree that you start to get a "feel" for things over time... so maybe that IS sort of like torquing?

[dredgerat]

Yes I noticed that it didn't seem to be up to 25# at the time I switched props but the only reason I mentioned the 25# part was I had read it in the owners manual otherwise whenever I changed a prop on the old motor I just tightened it up snug where I could lock the nut and leave it at that. Thanks to all who responded with help and comments.

[panasonic]

Are you sure? Stop and think about what you wrote. You are making a mistake that millions make. Those who either don't know, don't care to know, or are just sloppy.

After decades, Yamaha finally got it right. You might want to consider doing that also.

Maybe panasonic will ring in. Let's see what he has to say.

I gave up on that years ago...if I said Pound Feet to anyone, 99% of them would just look at you weird! Lol

I did notice when working with the Brits ,when we had BAE 146 jets, that they mostly said pound feet.

[zenoahphobic]

get it tight and line up the castle nut to the hole where you can get the cotter pin thru

Maybe not relevant but many years ago I lost a brand new Mercury prop (lifted engine, bare shaft, never found).
I suspected that there was some play that enabled the prop to hammer onto the brass nut and broke it in two, then loosing the lot when decelerating.
The other theory that I didn’t accept is that Mercury used a hex stamped locking washer where the tabs are bent on to the nut faces; that some failure there made the nut spin off.
Never liked the cumbersome pieces of that arrangement though.

[99yam40]

Maybe not relevant but many years ago I lost a brand new Mercury prop (lifted engine, bare shaft, never found).
I suspected that there was some play that enabled the prop to hammer onto the brass nut and broke it in two, then loosing the lot when decelerating.
The other theory that I didn’t accept is that Mercury used a hex stamped locking washer where the tabs are bent on to the nut faces; that some failure there made the nut spin off.
Never liked the cumbersome pieces of that arrangement though.

I never liked the flat tabs either.
but never lost a nut with a cotter key thru it.
I do not remember ever using a toque wench on a prop nut.
you can try and then decide to overtighten or back it back off to Ine up the hole

[robert graham]

get it tight and line up the castle nut to the hole where you can get the cotter pin thru

Exactly!….