Overcharging, 16.4V at battery

[jackmanjls]

Re: F90TLR, 2006 90hp.

I'm trying to determine if my Rectifier/Regulator (R/R) is defective.

The command link (CLink) is completely to the right side of the display (pegged). It indicates max V charge.

Putting a meter on the batt indicates a max voltage of 16.4V, this is too high.

The R/R is hot. Turning on all electrical and monitoring the CLink reveals the display is still pegged to the right.

The output plug for the R/R has 5 wires, 3 white, 1 red and 1 black.

My service manual is not clear on how to test the R/R. I want to do a continuity test on the full-wave diodes but can't find the schematic online. The manual says to measure the peak voltage at the coupler but doesn't give any reference to what wires at the coupler.

Can someone direct to a schematic diagram or tell me the procedure to test via the 3W, 1R and 1B wires.

I have YDS1.33 will that give me any detailed analysis? if so, how do I do?

[boscoe99]

Oh boy. Here we go again.

[boscoe99]

What service manual do you have? If Yamaha, which it should be, you will find the test procedures for both the rectifier/regulator and the lighting coil (input device for the R/R) on pages 8-16 and 8-17.

It is normal for an air cooled R/R to be hot. Notice the cooling fins on it? They are there to dissipate heat.

YDIS is not used to test an R/R.

Is the electrical connector for your R/R part of the device itself or is the connector at the end of a short harness?

[fairdeal]

Oh boy. Here we go again.

I'm getting my popcorn ready for when Seadawg3 checks back in !

[jackmanjls]

This is the Yama manual LIT-18616-02-86.pdf. I verified with the local Yama dealer.

The elect connector is part of the R/R. On page 8-17, #3 it says:

Replace the Rectifier Regulator if the output peak voltage of the stator coil is above specification. That's my situation. The stator coil has 3 wires they are white. So if I measure peak V from any W-W I should get the following:

Stator coil output peak voltage:
White (W) – White (W)
r/min
Unloaded
Cranking 1,500 3,500
DC V 12.4 45.3 98.3

To verify this I went to the schematic at the end of the manual and found #20 (stator coil). I can clearly see that this is the V across the coils (W-W).

That should give me the stator coil V.

The only issue I have is that the meter that I have (Centek HarborFreight) doesn't read peak. On the meters AC setting if I read that will give me RMS and I think if I multiply that number by 1.4 than that s/b peak.

Any suggestions?

[boscoe99]

Get a peak voltage output adapter. Then measure the output from the stator.

The meter is set up for AC voltage at 60 hertz. I don't think you can use the AC function on your meter to calculate peak voltage given that the hertz is varying in your outboard motor whereas it is constant in your house.

But here is the deal. The SM says to check the output of the R/R. If below spec you then check the stator output. If the stator output is equal to or above the stated stator specification then the assumption is that the R/R is defective and it gets replaced.

But there is no check for an R/R that has what one might think is an over voltage condition. According to the SM your R/R is outputting more than 13 volts and is within specification.

You gotta love Yamaha data.

Is the high voltage new to you? That is, was it somewhat lower in the past but now all of a sudden has gone over 16 volts? If so, I would suspect that the R/R is defective. These are known to be somewhat problematic.

[jackmanjls]

Everything was fine when I put the boat away last May and went north for the summer. I came back to SWest Fla, bought a new start batt and the problem occurred. The boat has only been in the water for 1 week and at no time did the CLink read normal ie it was always overcharging.

[boscoe99]

Did the Command Link voltage read OK last May when the motor was last used? If so, I presume that the regulator has now failed.

What brand and type of battery was installed? Do you have wing nuts on the battery?

[jackmanjls]

The batt installed was maint free and not with wing nuts.

I talked with the local yama dealer and told him that i read online that there could be issues if the start motor was AGM, maint free and with wing nuts. He said they have 100's of boats that they maintain and many have the above. He said he heard of the above but couldn't explain.

Can you explain about the batt and wing nuts? Seems strange to me.

[jackmanjls]

Also the batt read ok last May when I put away. This issue occurred this season after the batt change. A load test on the batt revealed that it was dead meat. I replaced with a Duracell (not the1.5v ones but the big daddies).

[fairdeal]

The batt installed was maint free and not with wing nuts.

I talked with the local yama dealer and told him that i read online that there could be issues if the start motor was AGM, maint free and with wing nuts. He said they have 100's of boats that they maintain and many have the above. He said he heard of the above but couldn't explain.

Can you explain about the batt and wing nuts? Seems strange to me.

from the Yamaha website
The Boater's Log Vol 3, No. 6 | Yamaha Outboards

"The final word on what type/size/rating of battery you must use is in your outboard’s owner’s manual – for example, Yamaha Marine Group specifies flooded-cell batteries to avert potential overcharging gel-cell or AGM during extend periods of high-speed engine operation. "

[boscoe99]

from the Yamaha website
The Boater's Log Vol 3, No. 6 | Yamaha Outboards

"The final word on what type/size/rating of battery you must use is in your outboard’s owner’s manual – for example, Yamaha Marine Group specifies flooded-cell batteries to avert potential overcharging gel-cell or AGM during extend periods of high-speed engine operation. "

This advice has been over come by later events. Latest Owner's Manual's do not specify only flooded lead acid batteries any more. A bulletin was issued by Yamaha to say that AGM and gell cell batteries are OK for use with four stroke and HPDI models.

Once they were bad. Now they are OK. Go figure.

Who knows; in the future flooded lead acid batteries may be verboten. It is Yamaha.

[RetiredGuy]

As Boscoe99 pointed out earlier
There are different version R&R devices for that motor

My guess Yamaha switched to the short wiring harness unit from the plug embedded unit after the R&R burned up the ECM and EXPENSIVE wiring harness too many times under warranty.

Bottom line replace the R&R ASAP it's a poor design or you can wait and later replace the ECM and the wiring harness your choice

[SeaDawg3]

I'm getting my popcorn ready for when Seadawg3 checks back in !

hahahahha no no no, even tho I have thick skin I had enough of the beat down.
just does not make any sense using the correct Yamaha part with worse results than previous...

[boscoe99]

Yamaha make sense?

Whatever you are smoking send me some of it.