Question for Rodbolt/Boscoe

[SeaDawg3]

There you go, if it was under warranty they should have records of what was done. Cross you fingers and make the call


As you said a motor that sits can have problems with rust on shiny internal parts.
I had 3 of the main bearings on my C40 that were rough when rolled by hand and saw a small spot of rust on the crank when I pulled it apart. being the 2nd or 3rd owner means you have no idea what has happend to the motor .

true.
not much I can do about any recourse if it is not a good finding.
I went through the motions, hired tech, sea trial yada yada yada.
buyer beware, etc etc...

hopefully I`ll get another season out of her before I decided to upgrade or drop a similar sized engine on her. a 115 would be nice, but the 90 moves here along at a nice clip.
todays 4 strokes are heavy as balls, to heavy for this one...

welcome to the world of boating...

[99yam40]

Yea, but it would be nice to know what was done to it.
This motor might run fine for many years still.


all you can do is keep it up following Yamaha's recommendations.
The lower needs to come off every once and awhile to lub things up like shafts and bolts to make sure they do not get stuck.
Water pumps need attention too before there is a problem that shows up and causes major problems a the least convenient time.

Nothing worse than having an overheat and then breaking bolts trying to get things apart or having to saw off the drive shaft to drop the lower unit

[SeaDawg3]

Yea, but it would be nice to know what was done to it.
This motor might run fine for many years still.


all you can do is keep it up following Yamaha's recommendations.
The lower needs to come off every once and awhile to lub things up like shafts and bolts to make sure they do not get stuck.
Water pumps need attention too before there is a problem that shows up and causes major problems a the least convenient time.

Nothing worse than having an overheat and then breaking bolts trying to get things apart or having to saw off the drive shaft to drop the lower unit

true again,

the lower unit has def been off, and by the looks of it more than once, lol.
the tell tale signs are there, wrench marks, 2 washers per bolt, I checked the trim fin/anode bolt, all good. In a normal sense you`d think the WP was serviced. Right now it flows superbly. and I do have a new kit on the way for stock. same for the rec/reg I`m going to swap out soon.

after all that, what did not make any sense was the grease and prop.
one of my first tasks was to drain n fill the LU and install a new prop.

found the LU oil to be dark and maybe a few drops of water. the tech did say she could go another season on this oil when I asked if he checked for metal/water in the lube.
I changed it out 2x so far and it`s ok.

the prop however was loose, grease on the splines was black, ok it hasn`t been off in a while, why the PO didn`t pick up on the loose prop, I don`t know, a simple tightening of the nut and bam. Or we can assume the boat was stored with the prop off.

I do know the boat was under cover, the cover itself was in bad shape so it was tossed. the boat could have been stored under a car port or at a shore home, anyones guess...

anyway, took care of that.

[99yam40]

Well run it like you own it and enjoy it ,

pick up some of the water proof grease Yamaha recommends for putting on splined shafts. having prop or the drive shaft stuck is not something you want

[SeaDawg3]

will do. I have a bunch of top tier grease, BRP, Amsoil, BellRay, a spare prop and spacer/washer/nut, etc...

Thanks...

[99yam40]

I have only seen one prop that would not come off before,
had to destroy the prop to get something on hub center to finally get it off shaft.

But have read where Rod and others had to cut the drive shaft off to remove lower unit and then deal with removing the shaft from power head and replace the shaft with new in the lower unit.
Lots of expense to go through for not pulling and greasing things up as Yamaha recommend on a regular basis

Happy boating

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just an FYI.

As Yam99 above mentioned, Yamaha brand "Waterproof grease", used for splines, mid section bushings, etc, IS the best you can use (and highly recommended). I suspect it will hold up MUCH better than non-marine specific grease.

IE; Couple years ago I cut corners and used marine wheel bearing grease (local dealer didn't have any in stock) on the mid section bushing. Lasted 2-3 months before it started "squeaking" at around 1700 RPM's-sounding like a bird circling the boat( extremely annoying)

Yep, "Do over" time. Drop the LU, re-apply..

A tub of Yamaha's grease wasn't very expensive and IT IS WATERPROOF and won't fling off...

[SeaDawg3]

Just an FYI.

As Yam99 above mentioned, Yamaha brand "Waterproof grease", used for splines, mid section bushings, etc, IS the best you can use (and highly recommended). I suspect it will hold up MUCH better than non-marine specific grease.

IE; Couple years ago I cut corners and used marine wheel bearing grease (local dealer didn't have any in stock) on the mid section bushing. Lasted 2-3 months before it started "squeaking" at around 1700 RPM's-sounding like a bird circling the boat( extremely annoying)

Yep, "Do over" time. Drop the LU, re-apply..

A tub of Yamaha's grease wasn't very expensive and IT IS WATERPROOF and won't fling off...

are you familiar with BRP synthetic grease? Bombardier waterproof grease.

the grease 10oz cartridges I have in stock even have their owns guns, so there is never any cross contamination, lol...

I will grab some Yamaha grease to have on hand.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

are you familiar with BRP synthetic grease? Bombardier waterproof grease.

the grease 10oz cartridges I have in stock even have their owns guns, so there is never any cross contamination, lol...

I will grab some Yamaha grease to have on hand.

That grease ^^^ should be fine.

Just passing on non-Marine grade WATERPROOF grease won't cut it..