can't shift 25hp yamaha

[shiftless15]

New to forum. Hello.

I have a (low useage) 1985 Yamaha 2 stoke, recoil starter OB. Previous owner installed new lower unit 5 years ago, so 'it' is (was?) in good shape. Motor was running well until I replaced the impeller, this season. Now locked in 'F.' Problem is NOT in the powerhead. With LU removed shift linkage works fine. With LU on work bench there is no movement in the shift linkage rod. Gear box is engaged, and turning drive shaft causes propeller to rotate in a 'forward motion." Any suggestions on DIY resolution for this? Not likely to take a 30 year old motor to a service center but if anyone has an idea what professional repair would cost on this that, too, would be helpful. Thank You.

[boscoe99]

Was the shift handle put into the reverse gear position (and left there) before you removed the lower unit? Was the shift cam rod on the lower unit not messed with during the time the lower unit was removed?

[shiftless15]

Thanks for your reply.
Having had weeks to think about 'this' I would say that the linkage was not left in 'R.' I believe that it was in 'N' and I'm sure that I wasn't careful in handling the LU in replacing the impeller, so I probably (also) moved the shift rod in the process.

[boscoe99]

If you can gain access to the lock nut without shifting the motor into reverse you are a better mechanic than I.

If there is no vertical movement of the shift cam rod with the lower unit on the work bench then it is possible that the shift cam rod has been raised so far upwards that it no longer contacts the shift plunger.

Maybe Rodnut will come along shortly with a way to check to see if this is the case and, if so, what to do about it.

[shiftless15]

boscoe99

Thanks for your description. I'll keep track of the flow of information.

Was tempted to remove (or attempt to remove) the shift rod assembly, but -beyond my anxiety and the $$$ of replacing gaskets/seals- I found a web reference saying that the rod is not removable is the linkage is in "F"position.

[99yam40]

I found a web reference saying that the rod is not removable is the linkage is in "F"position.

not sure what this means.

I believe the unit is spring loaded to Forward gear and the shifter has to force it into neutral and reverse, so my thoughts are that it has come out of where it should be but I could be wrong.
Service manual should have info and pics maybe

[rodbolt17]

it is indeed spring loaded for fwd.
the shift pin rides on the shift cam which is moved by the shift rod.
remove the lower,push down on the shift rod while rotating the prop shaft.
if it shifts into REV then place the shift on the engine to rev and reassemble.

that barrel nut is NOT an adjustment so do not even think about it.

if it wont go to rev while pushing down the rod it will require prop shaft removal to reset the shift cam.

never ever pull up on the shift rod as it can disengage from the clutch pin.

I do a few a year for the DIY crowd.
like its been pointed out here, no training is needed for outboard service work.

[boscoe99]

it is indeed spring loaded for fwd.
the shift pin rides on the shift cam which is moved by the shift rod.
remove the lower,push down on the shift rod while rotating the prop shaft.
if it shifts into REV then place the shift on the engine to rev and reassemble.

that barrel nut is NOT an adjustment so do not even think about it.

if it wont go to rev while pushing down the rod it will require prop shaft removal to reset the shift cam.

never ever pull up on the shift rod as it can disengage from the clutch pin.

I do a few a year for the DIY crowd.
like its been pointed out here, no training is needed for outboard service work.

That was my thinking/concern.

[shiftless15]

Ahhhhh

I'm afraid that this is bad news. Will consider what my options are.

Appreciate all the input: can visualize the 'situation' better, now.

Have looked at Yamaha manual and not enthused about prospect of addressing this project. But, maybe, my thinking should be, "Sure............ take this thing apart 'to destruction' -it already doesn't work so what do you have to lose?"

Any thoughts or cautions on disassembly/reassembly -based upon your own experiences- will be appreciated.

Thanks

[rodbolt17]

my thoughts?
take the lower to a dealership that employs factory trained techs and uses factory approved tools.

that gearcase is rather expensive.

should take about 2 hours to disassemble and reassemble it.

like I say I do 3-4 a year just because of this.

throw in some of the 9.9-15 and especially the T8 and it bumps up to 10 +.

[robert graham]

I'd tell the Yamaha technician that while he's at it to replace all the seals in the lower unit, driveshaft, shifter shaft, prop shaft....then you should be good to go with your 30 year old lower unit...hopefully

[99yam40]

I'd tell the Yamaha technician that while he's at it to replace all the seals in the lower unit, driveshaft, shifter shaft, prop shaft....then you should be good to go with your 30 year old lower unit...hopefully

it is not a 30 year old lower unit, if you read what he wrote it was replaced with a new one 5 years agao

[SeaDawg3]

my thoughts?
take the lower to a dealership that employs factory trained techs and uses factory approved tools.

that gearcase is rather expensive.

should take about 2 hours to disassemble and reassemble it.

like I say I do 3-4 a year just because of this.

throw in some of the 9.9-15 and especially the T8 and it bumps up to 10 +.

which facility do you work at Rod? you can pm me if you`d like...

back in the day, I`ve traveled to LI NY to find a qualified service center for warranty repair. alot of what you say is true for those that repairing correctly is out of their wheel house.

[shiftless15]

what if

I've been looking at the Yamaha manual (on line) and considering options. I'm surprised at how 'different' things are on the different HP models. On mine (84/85 25 hp) it seems possible (to me) that if I take on the relatively easy task of removing the shift rod and mounting plate (and, it seems, the complete water pump assembly) I should be able to see into the front cone of the transmission. It really isn't possible to force the springs and gear cluster(s) forward enough to insert the shift rod 'ramp' where it should be?

If not doing that ........................ If I remove the propeller facing lockwasher and retaining ring (somehow) would sliding out just the major gear/shaft assembly be enough to get access (via welding rod/screwdrivers/probes/etc) the the front of the housing in order to reseat the shift rod? Or would I have to pull out the forward gear and all the seals/bearings that Yamaha admonishes 'are destroyed with removal.?'

I'd bring the thing into a service center to have the locking ring (I think you know the proper name) retorqued, but I don't believe I can remove it on my own.

I really do occasionally address this sort of stuff. Already have a micrometer, dial caliper, four leg gear remover, slide hammer bearing puller, and some dykem blue, etc. But I'm astounded by the non stop list of specialized tools that the manual calls for. Had to laugh our loud when I saw a suggestion to use Desenex Foot Spray to check clearances. Someone need to inject some sanity into the outboard world! My own problem ...........................: there's no reason that a retaining bracket shouldn't have been part of the gear-shift-rod-assembly to prevent this sort of 'pulled out too far' situation from occurring.

Just rambling, there ........................

Any input, on any part of this, based on your own experiences, will be carefully considered.

Thank You.

[99yam40]

Being you have not posted what model # motor you have, is this a parts breakdown of your motor and lower unit?
1985 25LK Yamaha Outboard LOWER DRIVE 1 Diagram and Parts

If this lower is only 5 years old, it may come apart with out too much trouble