yamaha 90TLRA charging/running volts output?

[zenoahphobic]

Take a deep breath.
If you are worried about discharging a battery to below it then being able to start, you can setup a cutout ( disconnect from all your equipment when battery discharged too far).
I think you have answered that the new battery you bought was less than fresh, hence my suggestion from what you said that it is faulty maybe true. And there is something fishy (sorry pun) about the engine providing 15 plus many more volts.
Yes battery info ******!
AGM batteries looked down upon. What about Lipo? Hydrogen batteries?
Just sceptism and resistance to change.

If your batteries test that they are serviceable keep using them. We need pictures of your wiring to help us to better view your setup.

[SeaDawg3]

thanks Zeno, I`m good.
it`s more frustrating trying to find what you want/need more than anything else...

new tinned terminal ends on the battery cables and adhesive heat shrink.
all bilge pump connections and power supply to the fuse block under the helm all new heat shrink eyelets. Fuses replaced, grounds checked out and circuits proved. new trim/oil harness and new harness for the recent install of the yamaha multifunction gauge set. speedo and tach.

I can`t do to much right now for the spaghetti under the deck placed by the manufacturer.

there is a .5v difference between checking the volts at the battery, engine running VS viewing the volt gauge in the MFG. ie 14.7 @ bat terminals and on MFG 15.2 when last tested.


My suspicions are just that, we all can assume how, what and why walmart shoppers do what they do.
IF I opened the battery while in the store I would have pointed out the low water to the isle clerk/supervisor, BUT I`m sure it would have turn out ugly if WM saw me do that in the store. Of course when your buying something new, you have the expectation that there is nothing wrong or no monkey business about it...

what I thought: the battery was mishandled and knocked over spilling the water. You`d think common sense would have the WM employee just automatically take the battery off the shelf or take it to the auto center for fill up.

was there a call for clean up in isle 6? I don`t think I`ll ever know... lol...

so with what I had to work with being the only marine DC battery on the shelf, I serviced it , put it on the maintainer and installed it... and all was/is good until I installed the "better" gauges and saw slightly higher than before output... and that higher output could have been there all along with variations within the analog volt gauge.

it is pretty simple, and less troublesome than all the typing. But when I have unknowns, no records or history, replacing and updating parts is a proactive plan given the age of the engine and boat.

I`m just debating and on the fence about the larger 1000MCA/800CCA battery VS finding another brand and settling for some other brand that may not be in the local area...

who knows, I may just be giving up a decent battery as a core. testing both at the same time can not be done. I need one in the boat to run the bilge pump if necc with all this rain...
so the older one is back on the bench, and that one also comes to full charge in short order on the battery tender... just weird or nothing weird at all... as 15+ volts is not entirely abnormal.
I must be bored or something, lol...

[zenoahphobic]

The perfect setup

At my advanced years I still yearn for everything to be perfect but realise that this is Unachievable. Thinking wisdom and knowledge must be at it's peak by now but alas the body and mind is deteriorating. Procrastination and "what if this and that... Increasingly takes over and coupled with forgetfulness leads to greater anxiety.
You know I am working on my boat updating my dual battery setup. I still deciding whether my battery selector should be under deck or outside in a hatch. I have installed two separate digital voltmeters that are also visible when looking into boat whilst on the trailer.
In the meantime the second battery died and has been discarded leaving me worried about the now loose wires floppy about!
Knowing that I can't have many more climbing and contorting left in me I dread having anything not conveniently accessible .
Reality sets in, in that my boat is going to spend more and more time on the trailer and that it is far more important that things are to be accessible from outside the boat in order to maintain its reliability.
So it is more important that I can see the state of the batteries (voltmeters), be able to shutdown all batteries. and easily verify that this has been done, from outside the boat. Climbing in and crouching into the hull is too inconvenient and therefore less likely to be done! The negative which is outweighed by the convenience is that on board I need to step onto the stern, and the switches and batteries are more exposed to potential water damage.

[SeaDawg3]

copy that buddy! copy that...

in my persistence to make the world a better place, I went ahead and got a new "starting" battery. according to the Store clerk it arrived 2 weeks ago.
brought it home and checked the volts and it`s resting at 12.64 which seems to bc the magic number with off the shelf batteries. I can`t tell you how many I`ve bought over the years and this was the same number...LOL...

so I tossed it on the Battery tender and when this hurricane passes or rain stops I`ll install it in the boat.

OK I smell fresh brownies in the oven, time for coffee,

[SeaDawg3]

bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt pass/fail...

put in a brand spankin new 800cca/1000MCA in the boat and the volts right after start up is>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 15.2, then 15.4 and then 15.6 after a few minutes of idling WTH???

all wiring, all grounds, new reg/rec, and new spankin battery yield the same result as the other fully charged deep cycle battery.

I`ll have to go with what Boscoe reiterates and say this is the norm...

remember no load... crank up the stereo, then she`ll drop a few, turn on the pumps, and yes she`ll drop a few...

but what has me concerned is the constant 15+ being pumped into the battery when the over charge should go to ground as per SM.

[boscoe99]

bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzt pass/fail...

put in a brand spankin new 800cca/1000MCA in the boat and the volts right after start up is>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 15.2, then 15.4 and then 15.6 after a few minutes of idling WTH???

all wiring, all grounds, new reg/rec, and new spankin battery yield the same result as the other fully charged deep cycle battery.

I`ll have to go with what Boscoe reiterates and say this is the norm...

remember no load... crank up the stereo, then she`ll drop a few, turn on the pumps, and yes she`ll drop a few...

but what has me concerned is the constant 15+ being pumped into the battery when the over charge should go to ground as per SM.

Where are you seeing in the SM a reference to an over charge should go to ground?

Current to a battery is as critical, if not more so, than is voltage to a battery. I would not worry a lick about 15 plus volts being output from a 90 HP two stroke Yamaha. Maximum output of the rectifier/regulator is 10 amps and only a portion of that will make its way to a battery. For the short amount of time that the battery is connected to a running motor this is all but inconsequential.

Yamaha states the output of some motors as being 12 volts when what is really seen is 14.6 volts to a fully charged battery. So, when they state the output of a smaller motor as being 15 volts I can certainly see it outputting a higher voltage. But again, the current is all but nil.

Quit trying to fix what is not broken.

[SeaDawg3]

Where are you seeing in the SM a reference to an over charge should go to ground?

Current to a battery is as critical, if not more so, than is voltage to a battery. I would not worry a lick about 15 plus volts being output from a 90 HP two stroke Yamaha. Maximum output of the rectifier/regulator is 10 amps and only a portion of that will make its way to a battery. For the short amount of time that the battery is connected to a running motor this is all but inconsequential.

Yamaha states the output of some motors as being 12 volts when what is really seen is 14.6 volts to a fully charged battery. So, when they state the output of a smaller motor as being 15 volts I can certainly see it outputting a higher voltage. But again, the current is all but nil.

Quit trying to fix what is not broken.

hahah your killin me... But a few beers to you Bos!

13 year old unknowns, ok, it surely doesn`t hurt to replace a few items, fuel line, fuel filter, fuel pump, rec/reg etc etc having no history which is what I stated from the beginning.

why it`s so difficult to verify the output when 14.6 is stated in the SM is beyond me. I can only report what I see on a known good meter and known good parts.

now that all components are known to be good and seeing the same numbers as before (with slight variation between what could be resistance/charge levels in the other batteries) it is still subjective to the discussion in these threads about output based on the members experiences...

isn`t that what we are doing?

so as long as all is good, then no harm no foul...
with items that should have been changed, could have been changed, but now I know they have been changed for new and operating as expected...

having not seen the higher numbers listed in any written form I have seen is the question...

BTW I have a SELOC SM, and they could be wrong, I`ll have to read it again.

[SeaDawg3]

ok, page 4-39 Yamaha charging systems:

The single phase charging system found on inline motors (and a few of the stripped down V models) provides basic battery maintenance. Single-phase, full wave systems like these are found on a variety of products. Many outboard engines, water vehicles, motorcycles, golf carts and snow mobiles use similar systems.

This charging system produces electricity by moving a magnet past a fixed coil. Alternating current is produced by this method. Since a battery cannot be charged by AC, the AC current produced by the lighting coil is rectified or changed into DC to charge the battery.

To control the charging rate and additional device called a regulator is used.
When the battery voltage reaches approximately 14.6 volts the regulator sends the excess current to ground. This prevents the battery from overcharging and boiling away the electrolyte.



That is what I read, hence starting the discussion...

and the very first time I`ve seen this higher reading on any watercraft, boat, car , truck, twin rotax engine.
so Thought I`d ask to learn about this outboard.

[boscoe99]

ok, page 4-39 Yamaha charging systems:

The single phase charging system found on inline motors (and a few of the stripped down V models) provides basic battery maintenance. Single-phase, full wave systems like these are found on a variety of products. Many outboard engines, water vehicles, motorcycles, golf carts and snow mobiles use similar systems.

This charging system produces electricity by moving a magnet past a fixed coil. Alternating current is produced by this method. Since a battery cannot be charged by AC, the AC current produced by the lighting coil is rectified or changed into DC to charge the battery.

To control the charging rate and additional device called a regulator is used.
When the battery voltage reaches approximately 14.6 volts the regulator sends the excess current to ground. This prevents the battery from overcharging and boiling away the electrolyte.

That is what I read, hence starting the discussion...

and the very first time I`ve seen this higher reading on any watercraft, boat, car , truck, twin rotax engine.
so Thought I`d ask to learn about this outboard.

OK. Got it. They are describing a permanent magnet type of electrical generator that shunts current to ground to try and keep the output voltage at a specific point. In lots of motors it is more or less 14.6 volts. But, it can be whatever point the electrical engineer that designs the regulator wants it to be. In your motor it is not 14.6 volts.

Many think that just cause one Yamaha operates in one manner they will all operate in a similar manner. Nothing could be further from the truth. It bites mechanics in the ass all of the time.

[SeaDawg3]

whoo hoo!
in the years with repairing/running similar systems, this is the first time I`ve come across this reading. hence the 15+ throwing up a red flag...
Now I know, Now I learned something about this 90...

Thanks B! I`ll hoist up a few Miller lites for ya!

[boscoe99]

My final comment on this thread. Yam must have gotten so tired of questions being asked about voltage outputs that they finally put something down in writing. Here is what the 2015 Product Information Guide has to say. The 90 is not in there since Yamaha USA no longer offers that model here in the US.

[SeaDawg3]

hahahahaha hahahahaha hahahahaha

BUT BUT BUT!!!

my model is not listed! a 2 stroke! 2002 90TLRA


hahahahaha hahahahah ahahahaha

[99yam40]

Yep time to end this circus

[SeaDawg3]

thats really not fair 99...

I have a great sense of humor, so wasn`t this fun for you to???

like I said, If 15v was common knowledge, this thread would not exist...

thanks, have a beer, and relax.

man it`s a good thing I don`t have to start a thread on how to drain my carbs or fix the choke, ***... God Forbid...

good night Gracie

[zenoahphobic]

Where are you seeing in the SM a reference to an over charge should go to ground?

Current to a battery is as critical, if not more so, than is voltage to a battery. I would not worry a lick about 15 plus volts being output from a 90 HP two stroke Yamaha. Maximum output of the rectifier/regulator is 10 amps and only a portion of that will make its way to a battery. For the short amount of time that the battery is connected to a running motor this is all but inconsequential.

Yamaha states the output of some motors as being 12 volts when what is really seen is 14.6 volts to a fully charged battery. So, when they state the output of a smaller motor as being 15 volts I can certainly see it outputting a higher voltage. But again, the current is all but nil.

Quit trying to fix what is not broken.

Your second paragraph; voltage cannot be disascotiated from current. V equals R times I.
It is easy just to say go back to electrical school.
But your point is that the current output is low (10 amp) (but can also be argued that this is serious current to do damage to a battery) and the boat is not running for hours on end; that this does no harm.
Overcharging does not evaporate the electrolyte but rather only the water component . The important problem with this it can leave the plates exposed, leading to insoluble coating making the cell in affect smaller.
All the volts Yamaha quote are conditional.
This probably also makes an allowance for wiring and where the voltmeter is actually stalled.
So, if you drive for hours on end at 15 volts the battery will be overcharge. The accepted voltage is 12.6v so the safest charging is really slightly over this (12.60000001); but the time will be infinite and totally impractical.