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Beside installed application, what is the engineering difference between Yamaha 12 volt relays 68F8195A-00-00 and relay 6EX8195A-00-00? What does the 6EX designate? Can the two relays be safely interchanged? I am unable to find a data sheet on either part number. My engine is F150TLRC. My source of information re. technical service is Yamaha factory service manual LIT-18616-02-51. My electrical skills are "improving", enough said. I am tooled up with a reliable multi-meter. My baseline issue is that I do not hear my fuel pump kick on (for 3 seconds) when I key on/off, and I have no 12VDC at the connector at the Vapor Separator Tank (VST) to the high pressure fuel pump (L R/Y wires) with key on. I also have no voltage at the first upstream (L R/Y wires) connector. It looks like the next check for 12v is pin 30 of the ECM. Please advise. I have tested the high pressure fuel pump by jumping 12V+ to the R/Y pin on the VST connector, and ground to the L side. The pump runs and pumps fuel (I took safety precautions before doing this, including having a fire extinguisher within reach). I have not measured flow/pressure yet, and will get into the VST in a few minutes, to inspect and clean. Finally, if you can, please explain how this circuit ground works. Note: the markings on the original relay are: NAiS 31217 Japan CM1aF-D-12V ACM32211 M03 This relay is obsolete, but a data sheet is available. Thank you in advance.
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Correction to title: Compare Yamaha relays 68F8195A-00-00 to 6EX8195A-00-00.
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Yamaha part numbers are structured as follows:
The first three characters denote the model code of the vehicle that the part was first used on. 68F being a model Z200NETO/TR outboard motor. 6EX being a Yamaha Waverunner.
The second five characters denote the actual part. 8195A is a relay assembly.
The next two characters denote the iteration of the part. First iteration being -00, then -01, then -02... However, it can also be -10 if a major change is being implemented.
The next two characters denote the colour or finish code of the part, if applicable. -4D for instance being one flavor of Yamaha grey.Comment
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The two relays mentioned above are not interchangeable. Will one work for the other? Possibly yes, functionally. But one may be physically larger than the other and the mounting points may not be the same. Wire connections may not be the same.Comment
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68F-8195A-00-00 is available from Yamaha. Why is the 6EX part number coming up?Comment
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"I have no 12VDC at the connector at the Vapor Separator Tank (VST) to the high pressure fuel pump (L R/Y wires) with key on."
With the key on, the R/Y (Red/Yellow) wire should have battery voltage. Not sure why you are bringing up the Blue (L) wire. That wire is for the ground from the ECU.
Check other R/Y wires to see if they have battery voltage. They too are powered with the main relay closes with the key being turned ON.Comment
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"It looks like the next check for 12v is pin 30 of the ECM."
Pin 30 is battery power to the ECU. There should be battery power on the R/Y wire to the ECU.Comment
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"Finally, if you can, please explain how this circuit ground works. Note: the markings on the original relay are: NAiS 31217 Japan CM1aF-D-12V ACM32211 M03 This relay is obsolete, but a data sheet is available."
Yamaha does not disclose data sheets for proprietary parts.
I see the relay as being in stock. But don't go throwing a relay at the problem. Have you tested the relay per the service manual? If the relay passes its test, it is good. If the relay does not pass the test, there is your problem.
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How it works.
At key on, the main relay is energized. Battery power flows through the relay and onto the R/Y wires. To include the one going to the high pressure fuel pump.
When the ECU senses battery power with the key being turned on it applies a ground to the blue wire that runs to the pump. The pump runs and builds up fuel pressure. For a few seconds.
The motor is cranked and starts. At which time the ECU will then reground the blue wire to keep the pump running.
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One man show...good on ya!Comment
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I appreciate it when someone asks how stuff is supposed to work. The better the understanding the easier it is to find the problem. All too many just want an answer. To a question that might be barely understandable.
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“Sir my boat won’t go. I’ve replaced the battery, filled the tank, replaced the engine and replaced the hull, and it still won’t go.
What could it be? My cousin who knows someone thinks it might be the thermostat or the water pump. My other cousin’s wife thinks it needs to be repainted or something.”Comment
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What happened to BaffinBay?Comment
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Boscoe99,
Thank you for your replies and detailed technical explanations. . My reason for exploring the EX version of the main relay was cost. I did end up purchasing the correct Yamaha specified relay , Yamaha OEM. My approach is to learn as much as I can about this F150TLRC using this site and depending on Yamaha F150 service manual LIT-181616-02-51, YouTube, etc. I am well tooled up and have a nice shop, and love this stuff even as a DIY. My systematic troubleshooting led me to the relay, which I bench tested and found the coil shorted. The new relay solved the high pressure fuel pump not operating issue, and my primary performance issue of bogging down under load. I do not know the cause of failure on the relay. It has been in place since 2004 so I have no complaints about Yamaha quality! In the process I also explored the VST for the first time and found the bowl clean, filter clean, and fuel pump operational. I have since confirmed fuel pressure at 38 psi at idle using a fuel pressure test kit from Amazon (BETTOOL, $35, did the job). I also had a rough idle issue that turned out to be the #4 fuel injector. I found that by doing a cylinder cut out check at idle, pulling each spark plug lead in turn and noting the change in idle speed and vibration. That issue was solved by sending all four injectors out to a professional fuel injection service house for cleaning and service, with report. During that troubleshooting process I checked compression in each cylinder (153-154 psi at cranking rpm), and per the Yamaha service manual: the ignition coils, spark using a tester in series with the plugs, plug wires, and injector solenoids. The engine now has new NGK spark plugs per spec, and primary (suction side) and secondary (engine side) fuel filters. The engine now runs as well as it has ever run for me (3rd owner) at both idle and full load on this heavy (Pathfinder 2200V). The engine has 1200 hours on it.
I have another issue I am working on: the PTT is very slow on trim both up and down, and the engine lifts up on a hard reverse. Tilt is fine. This is after my complete overhaul using OEM parts. I suspect assembly error in the oil pump side check ball circuit and have parts on order. I have an assembly question regarding stack up on the down relief valve 64E-4382G-00-00: does the pin 64E-4381G-00-00 capture the check ball 6E5-43858-00-00 on the right side of the pin (inside the valve seat) or the left side (the pump body side) of the pin? The parts diagram shows the latter. My PTT assembly is the 3 ram Showa, Yamaha p/n 63-P43800-00-00. Note: the oil reservoir is topped off, no air in system, system is properly primed during overhaul, and the manual relief valve is fully seated. I have something out of place in there. Finally, Suzuki service manual 99500-96J10-01E has an outstanding explanation of how this hydraulic circuit works, on this SHOWA unit.
Thank you for your help with this.
Finally (again) I am trying to get my Ebay version of YDS 1.33 up and running. In that process I purchased Dell factory refurbished laptop with Windows 10. My attempts with my Mac with authentic Windows 7 partition did not go well. My Yamaha Winky Blinky from Sim Yamaha is working and shows a healthy engine. I have put together a 4 gauge panel to check vacuum but have not yet used it. Those are separate projects.Comment
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Thanks for the feedback.
Does the PTT motor sound like it is running normally, or slow?Comment
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