Unsticking a stuck lower unit

[ausnoelm]

All sorts of sprays are OK for rusted bolts and nuts, most are similar, and some will never work because they cannot get into the rusted/corroded area. Plain old cheap diesel or kerosene is about as good as anything else, then there is a dozen home brews too, all have some purpose, that said, if possible, heat is your friend, and I mean real heat, not a hair dryer or heat gun.

[Keithbaja]

Those motors have a oxygen sensor. I used to be smogged licensed in Alaska & Cali and still prep cars to pass a smog test. A lot of us in the biz just call them oxy's..

[ausnoelm]

Those motors have a oxygen sensor. I used to be smogged licensed in Alaska & Cali and still prep cars to pass a smog test. A lot of us in the biz just call them oxy's..

OK, now where does the "sea" come from?

[Keithbaja]

Those motors have a oxygen sensor. I used to be smogged licensed in Alaska & Cali and still prep cars to pass a smog test. A lot of us in the biz just call them oxy's..

[ausnoelm]

Yeah, you said (typed) that already......but, where does the "sea" bit come from, not in any world can 66 be construed to sea!

[99yam40]

Those motors have a oxygen sensor. I used to be smogged licensed in Alaska & Cali and still prep cars to pass a smog test. A lot of us in the biz just call them oxy's..

so why would someone have to have a smogged license in Alaska.

and no need to prep cars for a test, you just test to see if they pass, if they do not then you fix them properly.

now if you are saying you rig them up to fool a smog test,
I had no idea they even give licenses for doing that sort of thing anywhere in the world.

[Keithbaja]

OMG !! Preping a car for a smog test. Is very normal standard. A tune up, fresh gas 3/4 tank. Gas tank cap check. Check and run monitors, look for vacuum leaks....Anchorage AK. has the program that Cali has. Only a FOOL would just run in to a test facility blindly..... You could be labeled a gross polluter and changes the whole ****..aka. Not good

[99yam40]

so you have to buy a license to do that?
normal upkeep is needed to keep a vehicle to keep running properly.
and the idiot lights and gauges on them tell you if there are problems that need attention.
are people that stupid over there that they have to pay someone to tell them what to do before testing and do what is needed.
Not that many vehicles up there compared to most other states considering the size and population so why are they following Cali stupidity?

[99yam40]

OK, the challenge has begun

All (9) bolts are out - but (4) of the main bolts are screwed halfway in. I have a few wedges in place, as well.

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any head way?
can you get a sawzall blade onto the shaft without destroying other things?

Seems like Rodboplt mentioned cutting the shaft and then drilling in the shaft and tapping the hole to pull the stub out of the crankshaft

[DennisG01]

No real changes, yet. But I'm patient! I've got wedges in there, as well - and I keep spraying it once a day.

Yes, I do think I could sneak a sawzall in there. I'm going to try an air chisel with a blunt tip next.

[99yam40]

I would hit the drive shaft and not the crank.
crank is supported in bearings and is harder to replace

[DennisG01]

All sorts of sprays are OK for rusted bolts and nuts, most are similar, and some will never work because they cannot get into the rusted/corroded area. Plain old cheap diesel or kerosene is about as good as anything else, then there is a dozen home brews too, all have some purpose, that said, if possible, heat is your friend, and I mean real heat, not a hair dryer or heat gun.

Unfortunately, to get a torch in there, it's a pretty small area and I don't want to risk damaging other things.

[DennisG01]

I would hit the drive shaft and not the crank.
crank is supported in bearings and is harder to replace

Good point. And, to that point, truthfully, I've been a tiny bit worried about the wedging and putting undue stress on the bearings. I'm not too worried, though - I think it'll be fine.

I have a spare crank that should be in good condition... it's inside a spare engine that had, what appears, a ring broken and the pieces bounce around inside the cylinder for a while. The piston top was all chewed up. But the crank should be good. I'm just not sure I want to put the time into the rebuild.... if it even comes to that.

[zenoahphobic]

Yeah, often depending on how bad your “good” engine gets you might reach the point where it is easier to repair your “spare” engine with bits from your “good” engine.
There must be a term used for this situation.
Third option, of course is to buy another engine!

[zenoahphobic]

I would hit the drive shaft and not the crank.
crank is supported in bearings and is harder to replace

I think at this point they are one and have no play between them to isolate damaging shocks from hitting.