2005 F115 not charging. Stator?

[Coreylaker]

Thanks for the explanation on how the charging system works. My problem is how to isolate and replace the failed component.
Can anyone assist?
Thanks

[boscoe99]

Thanks for the explanation on how the charging system works. My problem is how to isolate and replace the failed component.
Can anyone assist?
Thanks

Fisrt, you measure the electrical output of the rectifier/regulator. If it is below specifications, you then check the output of the stator.

The stator provides electrical power to the rectifier/regulator. If the power being provided by the stator is below specifications then you know that the problem is there. So, the stator is replaced.

If the stator is providing the correct output then the conclusion is that the problem is with the rectifier/regulator. So, the rectifier/regulator is replaced.

Think of this like a lamp at your house. The bulb is not illuminating. You first check the input to the lamp. It is either good or not. If it is good you suspect the bulb is faulty and replace the bulb. If the input to the lamp is not good you might then check the fuse/circuit breaker to find out if it is the cause for no input to the lamp.

The service manual for your motor will provide the specifications for testing both the rectifier/regulator and any specialized equipment needed for those tests. It will also provide what information that Yamaha offers as to how to replace any defective device.

[99yam40]

The service manual for your motor will provide the specifications for testing both the rectifier/regulator and any specialized equipment needed for those tests. It will also provide what information that Yamaha offers as to how to replace any defective device.

That sounds kind of familiar

Kind of strange you have done all this work on your motor and do not have a service manual for it.
By the way the specs in manual are for using the peak reading meter or a DVA adapter with your regular meter

[boscoe99]

That sounds kind of familiar

Kind of strange you have done all this work on your motor and do not have a service manual for it.
By the way the specs in manual are for using the peak reading meter or a DVA adapter with your regular meter

Trying to get through to the guy.

Folks want to fix their motors but in the majority don't want to buy the manual, buy the test equipment, or spend the time to learn what is going on. They seem to want silver bullets given to them.

It is tough when one does not know about DC electricity, AC electricity, peak AC voltage, what a rotor is, what a stator is, induction of a voltage in a coil moving past a magnet, rectification of DC to AC, etc., etc., etc. I am willing to help folks learn but most simply have the attitude of "just tell me the damn part that needs to be replaced, how do I replace it (and can I borrow your tools) and where can I buy it at a discount"?

[Coreylaker]

Mr. Boscoe,
It appears I need to apologize for my reliance on this forum rather than a shop manual. The Chris Craft forum members share their knowledge, experiences and best practices without judgement/insults which has NEVER been the case with this forum. From my first posts I was pretty much called a fool by Rodbolt. He shared a fantastic upper seal trick that certainly wouldn't be in any manual and I thought I had shown my appreciation of his obvious and immense knowledge. I hoped there would be another shortcut with my new found electrical issues. Unfortunately this damned engine continues to cause me headaches. (and for the record, I did take it to my local Yamaha dealer to give it the once-over after I found the loose ground wire, but they didn't catch this charging issue, so I'm not opposed to spending a dollar if that's in your mind).
I bought a Yamaha purely for reliability and continue hoping one day I will never have to put a wrench to it again as my woodies are my hobby and this simply a necessary utility vessel.
Your assumptions of my mechanical ignorance and insults not withstanding, I sincerely thank you for the advice you did attempt to provide and harbor no ill will.

[rodbolt17]

nobody is bustin chops.
it works about like every other outboard with a flywheel charging system.
I do this for a living and have for longer than I care.

I do NOT keep service manuals at the house.

its a simple 3 phase A/C stator that feeds another simple regulator/rectifier.

its firly simple.
if I was testing a rather large coil of wire I would expect to see something less than about 10 ohms.

if I was testing the output loaded I would expect to see about 13-14V simply cause the voltage in,loaded,really wont exceed the voltage out.

at idle unloaded I would expect 15-20V at 3000 or so something in the order of 45-60V.

the continuity test A-B,B-C and C-A sould not show opens.
A,b AND C to ground should show open.

and that about covers any 3 phase outboard charging system.
once my inputs are verified it really has no choice but to be a regulator/rectifier.

yep its that simple.

[boscoe99]

My comments were not directed to the OP in particular. They were comments in general as to a vast number of people that come here seeking whatever it is that they seek.

To the OP, if you want to learn more about the motor get a shop manual. Read it. It is weak but it is helpful. Then, when you have questions come back here. I have more literature that can be provided if you are willing to read and learn it. We will then both be working from the same document(s). I will answer any and all questions that you may have, to the extent of my ability to do so.

The more you know about your motor the better it will serve you.

To summarize what Rodbolt wrote:

- Magnets embedded in the flywheel spin by some electrical coils under the flywheel.
- An electrical voltage is created in those coils when the magnet goes by the coil. That will be AC voltage. AC for alternating current. The voltage will rise and fall as the motor turns faster or slower.
- AC voltage is fed to the rectifier/regulator.
- AC voltage is converted to DC (direct current) by the rectifier part of the R/R. A battery and the electrical equipment on the motor need DC current.
- The DC voltage is regulated within the R/R. That is the regulator part. Voltage needs to be nominally 14.5 volts out of the R/R.

So, the magnets have to be in good shape to induce voltage in the coils. The coils also have to be in good shape so there is the proper output to the R/R. The R/R has to be in good shape to do its job of converting AC to DC and to output the correct voltage. The SM will tell you how to test both, and what equipment is needed for each test.

Always, always, always, double if not triple check the ground connections.

[99yam40]

If you look up the proper manual # on the Yamaha site, you can do a search for it on the web.
sometimes you can find access to a manual for reading but not down loading It still beats waiting for someone with you motor and manual to see your post and post all the info you are looking for which is a Big waist of time in my opinion.
It is always best to have a manual for your motor if you plan on working on it yourself along with the test equipment
Even if you find and read the manual you will still need to pick up the test equipment to do the testings, or just start trowing parts at it and hope

[zenoahphobic]

I don't see why special electrical test equipment is required. Sure, if one doesn't understand the electrical theory applicable then there will be a lot of ways to explain what is relevant to solving the problem.

In the end , notwithstanding poor electrical connections, the OP will be replacing one or both of the two components (stator or rectifier regulator component); which one is faulty can simply be determined with a DVM ($5 Walmart).Because these are not repaired. Reading AC volts at the stator output, and DC volts at the regulator outputs, or Ohm's (continuity) when stationary, and reading forward and then reading with reversing probes at the regulator.

Follow Rodbolt's previous reply.

BTW, it would be more helpful that things are explained in simple terms. E.G. the rectifier is simply made of diodes allowing current to flow only one way each. If they are faulty they either don't pass any current or they pass it both ways. The regulator is included in with the rectifier, it allows any voltage up to about 14.5V DC to pass through. The stator, which has windings of wire can be faulty by being open circuit or by windings that have had the insulation between them failed (commonly by overheating, or physically damaged).

Also it may have been helpful to explain why the motor stops when the battery is disconnected.

So, the OP only needs to identify where he probes his meter if he doesn't already recognise where these points are.

[Coreylaker]

I have a friend with the identical motor. Because my problems were caused by a faulty ground, could I not try my rectifier on his motor/ vice versa to determine if my rectifier or stator is bad? Could I cause harm to his good system if I put my rectifier on his motor and checking its output?
Thanks

[zenoahphobic]

Changing parts

I have a friend with the identical motor. Because my problems were caused by a faulty ground, could I not try my rectifier on his motor/ vice versa to determine if my rectifier or stator is bad? Could I cause harm to his good system if I put my rectifier on his motor and checking its output?
Thanks

In principle you are right, but you know the dilemma.

If you put yours on his and his has the same symptons you may be lead to believe you only need to buy that component to solve your problem. But what if it stuffed up something on his (and originally on yours) as a further consequence of that fault (virus like)?

If you put his on yours; 1. your engine may be good, and you buy that component, or 2. your engine no different, did you damage this component in the process?, 3. if so, your dilemma is do you put it back on his motor, to see if it still works? 4. Or , to be on the safe side, do you now buy two, put one on his? 5. And then try this new one on yours knowing a high possibility that you will blow that one too.

It is all lateral thinking, the harder you think the more possibilities. Sometimes just throwing new parts at something can be very costly.
The only new part that is fool proof is replace the whole engine! (not suggesting that)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

See if this video helps;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q#t=183

[zenoahphobic]

Coreylaker if you have an identical running motor on hand then you can compare digital meter readings in as many combinations you do and if one (or more likely more) are vastly different then yours is suspect.

You need to disconnect connectors to isolate to do this, don't just probe at equivalent points because you will be measuring the affects of more than one component. Use Ohm scale but don't have 12v connected anywhere.

See video above, and if the rectifier/reg has vastly different readings then you may decide to take the risk and put your friends into yours to convince yourself (verify).

[Coreylaker]

It was indeed the rectifier. Thanks for advice, all.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates!