One more comment. I would look very carefully at the plug for the HP pump for pin and socket fitment issues. Same at the ECU plug. A bad pin or socket, loose or corroded, can cause problems like you are experiencing.
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2016 F70 Issues
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Originally posted by Double_A View PostI have been experiencing the same problem with a 2011 F70 300hrs. I When the problem fist appeared the boat was running fine then total loss of power and surging. When it cooled down it would run normally. The problem was inconsistent it would happen, then it would be another 10 hrs before it would happen again. I took the boat to my trusted mechanic and he couldn't find any thing wrong. Originally I thought it was a fuel problem and tried a remote tank, no change. I have replaced everything from the fuel pickup in the tank to the VST pump. The problem has been getting worse, it shows now in 8 minutes of running. I purchased the computer diagnostic system from ebay. I had the motor running (cold) ran fine for 8 minutes, then it just shutoff. On the computer I noticed the TPS and Intake Pressure fluctuating wildly with the motor not running. I opened the throttle and the intake pressure changed but still moved wildly. I checked the harness voltage to the TPS and it's showing what the computer shows. My guess its the ECM, I have a call into the mechanic to get his input. Hpoefully he will call me today.
if that is bouncing around it would cause all kind of problems
Possibly one of the sensors going bad causing the voltage to get out of spec ,
or in and out
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
id you check the 5 volt reference voltage to the TPS and intake pressure?
if that is bouncing around it would cause all kind of problems
Possibly one of the sensors going bad causing the voltage to get out of spec ,
or in and out
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Originally posted by Double_A View Post
I checked the voltage in the harness unplugged from the sensor and its jumping from 2V-5V watching it, verifying what the computer shows. I have a video of it not sure how to post it.
I am fairly sure not all are fed from same source
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SOLVED. I spoke to my mechanic and told him what I was seeing. He asked if I had a water pressure sensor, which I do. He said the water pressure and the oil pressure sensors were notorious for leaking into the connector on the older motors like mine. I went out to the garage and unplugged the water pressure and looked at the connector, it had a tiny bit of corrosion in it. With the ignition on, the computer showed stable TPS voltage. I let it stay on for 10-15 min, no problems. I took the boat outside ran it on the hose for 15 minutes ran perfect no errors. Went to the neighborhood park with a long fresh water canal and ran it 10 miles no problems ran like a clock.
Long story short my mechanic did me a solid. I always thought the engine got hot and caused an error (vapor lock or got some component hot), but what was really happening water got into the harness and shorted it then it would dry out and run normally. It was hard to diagnose since every time I took it to the shop it ran fine. I feel confident the problem was solved since it wouldn't run for more than a few minutes at a time recently ( this morning). I have chased this problem for years I hope this post might help someone else out. If this ends up being a false positive I will post here and let you know.
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Originally posted by Gatorlizard View PostGot it back Tuesday but didn't get a chance to run it until today. It ran for an hour and 45 minutes on the hose at 2200 rpm without shutting down. That longer than ever before since having the issue. Won't get it to the river before Saturday.
info like that is interesting to all of us
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Fail on the river today!! Ran for 45 minutes at varying RPM. As usual it quits at 18-2200 revs. Took the cowling off and 20 minutes later I pumped the bulb up and went back to the ramp with it off at 1800 rpm without a problem. I have got to find someone who knows his way around these engines. I don't care if he is 200 miles away from me.
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I think I finally solved the problem. Knock on wood! I rethought the circumstances under which it shut off. I ran the boat again at speed but gradually reduced the RPM over the last mile before running at low speed. It wouldn't shut down as long as I did this. If I ran it hard and pulled the throttle back it would shut off after 5 minutes at low rpm. The last time the shop had it they said the fuel cooler was the issue but they didn't take it off. Al they did was blow air back and forth through the hoses under the manifold. I took the cooler off and flushed/soaked it a half dozen times with acid until I got clean acid out. Put everything back together and ran it 12 miles round trip at 4000 rpm. Pulled it back to 2000 rpm for the last mile to the ramp. It didn't shut down. What do you think?
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Postif there was a build up inside the cooler that caused overheating of the fuel in the VST, that cleaning out should have taken care of it.
something to think about, if the motor has crud that can get into that cooler line, it may repeat
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Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
I am not familiar with those kits, so I have no idea how well they work
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