Lifting Eye 1985 etxk ?

[R Socey]

I need to remove my twin 1985 150 etxk outboards to replace my transom. Is there a hook, or harness that I need to get? Any help, part
numbers would be greatly appreciated!

Thank You!

[DennisG01]

The lifting hook/ring should already be there. Did you physically look on the top of the engine, yet?

[R Socey]

I havn't looked in awhile - don't remember seeing them, but I wasn't looking for them either I just realized yesterday that I needed ,to pull both motors while doing an exploratory rotten wood tare out. I was battling waps so I didn' t pull the covers; where they made their nest. I"ll check tomorrow - I think the Raid has calmed them down.

[DennisG01]

It's less of a "hook/eye" and more an Omega or Ohm shape. But, yeah, get those wasps out of there, first!

[R Socey]

Just got to the boat today. Looks like one lift ficture. I wonder if the motor will be balanced when lifted from there?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just got to the boat today. Looks like one lift ficture. I wonder if the motor will be balanced when lifted from there?

I suspect the engine will lean forward some, but it isn't going anywhere with the hook.

You should be fine with that, especially if using an engine lift or come-a-long with a roof rafter(re-enforced)

[DennisG01]

Yup. Like Scott said, no worries. It will lean a little bit (my 250 does, anyways), but it's completely con*****able and will be easier than you think. Think about it... you're lifting from the top of the engine - all the weight is below the hook - where can it go?

[R Socey]

Thanks guys : better safe than sorry! The boat is sitting on it's trailer in the grass / future driveway, and that is where everything has to go down unfortunately.

I was going to put down some heavy plywood, build some, stands, and get after it with a hoist like this. I hope it will reach. The ground is flat.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That lift will easily lift the engine with plenty of room. That adjuster on the end is for balancing the engine and adjusting the angle of it. You will need a second point to attach to your engine if you use that attachment...

However, I doubt your'll be able to roll it in the grass with the engine attached.

As you have to pull both engines (with one lift), I'd suggest pulling each in the driveway(or a hard surface, then lowering /storing each engine in the garage (or wherever). That or moving the hull once the engines removed. Those casters on the lift are very strong but maybe 2-3" and aren't made to roll around on the grass/ plywood (plywood, you'll be getting jambed up at each seam).

Suggestion, Do you have a garage you can back the boat (doesn't have to fit fully) into?

I have a two car garage and have re-enforced the rafters with 4x4's.

I then ran 1/2" threaded rod through the 4x4, through the sheet-rock ceiling and attached an eye hook. A 2,000 lb "come along" ($20.00s maybe?) attached to that eye hook.

I've lifted small block Chevy engines with it, then roll the car back out. Then lower the engine to a cradle, etc... It'd work very easily with your boat on a trailer. You'd probably end up laying the engine on its side on some carpet and slide it to the side while the work is being done..Just a thought..

[zenoahphobic]

Remember to allow for extra height clearance. As the engine weight is taken up the boat will also rise because of flex in trailer,tyres and trailer springs releasing.

[DennisG01]

I did almost the exact same thing as Scott did to his garage ceiling rafters. Works great! There's many examples of engine stands out there, this is the one I made for my spare engine. It shows the foot removed, but it is high enough for the foot to be on there, as well. My 8-year old daughter can move it around the garage. I've since added a shelf on the front side of the stand to hold a battery, tools, etc. Just a thought in case you wanted to move them around. You could build this wider to store both motors at the same time, if you wanted.

Concerning moving it on the grass/plywood... You could look into replacing the wheels with wider wheels. Although, I think if you use 3/4" ply you might be OK. Or, put a width of thinner plywood (maybe 12") under the gap between the pieces of plywood and it should roll just fine.

[zenoahphobic]

You're a fine carpenter DennisG01, that's a piece of furniture.
I prefer to use steel (weld), wouldn't like to stain that timber with water and oil.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That IS a nice piece of work Dennis!

Glad I don't have a spare engine or I'd have one too.

I'd probably tackle the same design with steel and the welder too..

And yes, the ceiling rafters work great, are cheap and your not storing a big engine lift you likely won't use again.

[R Socey]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Unfortunately I don't have access to a hard spot, or a garage at this time. The boat (25') is on the side of my brother's house where we intend to concrete. It is cumbersome to move, and there is nowhere to put it at this time - his garage, and driveway are replete with vehicles already including his boat.
I plan on making some stands like the robust ones Dennis has made. I especially like the 4x4 with support construction - I don't work with metal. Mine will have to be much taller though. It is 4.5 ' from the top bolts to the bottom of the skegs.
I will also have to make sure I have enough height to pull them - that is an estute consideration zenoahphobic! I could use a pickup bed hoist like such. It would alleviate the height concerns, and the casters; rolling issues?

[DennisG01]

Thanks, guys. I actually first thought of welding something up, but I had some of this wood already laying around. One of the reasons I made it so beefy was that I may someday transport the spare to our cabin in Maine (I'm in PA) where the Grady is (and the "main" engine). My thought was to keep the engine on the stand, crank/slide it into a pickup truck, then take the weight off the wheels by setting the whole thing on two 6x6's that run left-to-right (fit tightly) on the pickup truck bed, lag the stand to the 6x's and securely strap the whole thing down.