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The green 30 Amp fuse on the motor labeled "Rec / Reg (Main Fuse)" keeps blowing when I turn the battery selector switch on. I tried changing the starter / solenoid as well as the starter relay. I have the ignition turned off and am not trying to start the motor at all. The fuse blows instantly as soon as I flip the batter selector switch to the on position. Any ideas?
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Got a short !! -
Yeah, just wondering if this is a known issue with F115 / Yamaha in general. The motor has 100 hours on it, is stored covered and out of the water and rinsed with freshwater after every use. It must be something common / simple. Maybe a bad voltage regulator would cause a rec /reg fuse to blow? Or something of the like?Originally posted by Keithbaja View PostComment
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Connecting the battery 'backwards' usually blows a main fuse...Comment
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I haven't messed with the batteries in 2 years. Boat was running fine last two years. Took the boat out and ran great for 2 hours. Shut it off on the mooring for 2 hours then tried to start it back up and the fuse lowing began. Neither batteries nor battery cables have been touched in two years. Battery terminals clean / not corroded. Second motor has no issues and is connected to same batteries and negative terminal post.Originally posted by fairdeal View PostComment
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OK then.Originally posted by craigsboat View Post
Well its certainly not a common problem, nor a "known issue".
I'm sorry you spent money on a starter solenoid and relay.
I would try two things:
1. separate the big black connector at the front of the engine -
that connects the main engine harness to the remote control wire -
then see if the fuse still blows
2. Disconnect the plug to the regulator/rectifier -
then see if the fuse still blows
If neither of those make any difference,
I'd be scrutinizing the engine for a chafed or damaged wire...Comment
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Okay, will do. Are you talking about the main heavy gauge negative cable that attaches to the side of the motor clock near the starter? Otherwise do you know of a schematic or even better a photo that shows which negative cable you are talking about? ThanksOriginally posted by fairdeal View Post
Unplugged voltage regulator and the fuses held thru switching on batteries and turning over motor. It must be a bad voyage regulator. Ordered new one. Funny thing is that I changed both motor's voltage regulators less than one year back and they only have less than 50 hours on them. The previous ones were the original voltage regulators with more than 100 hours on them. And I only related them because the dashboard voltage meter was showing all different voltage numbers from 10v to 18v when the motors were running. The change corrected the problem. But the voyage regulators never blew a fuse even when the voltage meter was showing 2 hours of running at swinging from 10v to 18v throughout the entire 2 hour run. I wonder why its blowing fuses this time and only messed with voltage last time?
Once I removed the voltage regulator I discovered a small 1 inch crack down the center of the shinny black plasticy looking part of the back of the regulator. I wonder if this is the cause of the failure and if the crack / failure is caused by heat / voltage overload / corroded battery wires?Last edited by craigsboat; 03-05-2022, 02:18 PM.Comment
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I believe he was talking about the 10pin connectorComment
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Unplugged voltage regulator and the fuses held thru switching on batteries and turning over motor. It must be a bad voyage regulator. Ordered new one. Funny thing is that I changed both motor's voltage regulators less than one year back and they only have less than 50 hours on them. The previous ones were the original voltage regulators with more than 100 hours on them. And I only related them because the dashboard voltage meter was showing all different voltage numbers from 10v to 18v when the motors were running. The change corrected the problem. But the voyage regulators never blew a fuse even when the voltage meter was showing 2 hours of running at swinging from 10v to 18v throughout the entire 2 hour run. I wonder why its blowing fuses this time and only messed with voltage last time?Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
Once I removed the voltage regulator I discovered a small 1 inch crack down the center of the shinny black plasticy looking part of the back of the regulator. I wonder if this is the cause of the failure and if the crack / failure is caused by heat / voltage overload / corroded battery wires?
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RR shunts excess voltage to ground to regulate, depends on what fails and how it fails as to what happens.
are the ones you put in OEM or aftermarket ones?Comment
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Aftermarket. But they had good reviews on amazon, looked exactly the same, were OEM direct replacements and were made in China, just like the OEM ones. Think that there's a big difference in quality control etc? Ive been using NAPA aftermarket Chinese parts in all my cars for over 40 years without a single issue. In fact I'm pretty sure Ive never bought a single dealer / OEM part for a car ever.Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostComment
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remember the old saying you get what you pay for
was there any warranty on those parts?
can you get free replacements?
if not buy some more and see if it was a freak failureComment
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Im sponsored by Amazon. ;-)Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
Checking my receipt the regulator is actually 1 year and 1 week old. So even with a warranty i'd be SOL.Comment
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you can get the real mcoy right here on this website that sponsors this forum
Yamaha 68V-81960-00-00 - RECTIFIER & REGULATOR ASSY | Boats.netComment
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Cool. $115 isn bad. I assume its made in Japan, the USA, Canada or at least Mexico for 6x the price of aftermarket?Originally posted by 99yam40 View PostComment
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