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I have a 1993 130hp txrr that is not transferring oil from remote to engine tank. 3 flashing lights on digital tach. I have tested everything connection that I can find and have read on in this forum. Still missing something. I have been testing form continuity and I found the posting below that talks about testing volts but not sure if it is the same for my engine. I think it was for 2004 200hp HDMI. Is the below the same for my motor?
ok
at key on what does the tach oil indicates do?
should self test then display the far right bar.
if it displays a center bar it wont transfer automatically until SWB or the SWB circuit is repaired.
SWB is the switch in the remote tank. closed when oil level is sufficient for transfer.
open and NO automatic transfer AND the center bar lights.
you can also verify the ECU "sees" SWB closed, or open, with the lap top.
there is a splice on the black/red wire from the remote tank where it turns to green(or Green/white) heading to the tach and to typically green/black heading to the ECU.
a quick test, simply drain the engine tank, turn the key ON.
look at the tach.
you should have an audible and 3 bars flashing.
if you don't have 3 bars flashing check the SWB and associated wiring.
all SWB does is sit there and tell the ECU if there is sufficient oil for automatic transfer. remove the ground (open switch or circuit) and the tach sees the open and illuminates the center bar and the ECU sees the open and inhibits auto transfer.
if SWB passes the flasing bar test,make sure the remote tank is about 1/2 full, then on to some VOLTAGE testing.
with the remote tank about 1/2 full and SWB is known good as well as the circuits here is what happens.
when you drain the engine tank SW3 closes.
SW3 is the lowest switch on the engine tank.
SW3 commands the second transfer on command as well as setting the audible command and setting the far left bar on the tack via the green/red.
now IF the ECU 'sees' SW3 on AND SWB on it assumes 1 of two things.
1 is its an initial engine tank fill or 2 the system malfunctioned.
the ECU responds by applying a ground path via the blue wire from the ECU to the transfer pump.
this ground path will be applied for 180 seconds.
this is your test window.
have the meter set up from brown at the pump bullet connector to the engine block, pump connected.
anytime the key is on this should display battery voltage.
if this test passes on to the blue wire.
either use the manual switc ECU side bullet connector OR find the transfer pump blue wire at the ECU and back probe it with a paper clip.
now set the meter on the DC scale of at least 15V.
one lead at the pump blue wire bullet connector.
the other lead at the ECU blue wire.
turn the key on,you should have an audible and 3 bars flashing.
the meter should show less than 1/2 Volt within ten seconds and remain that way for 180 seconds.
if it shows battery voltage then the ECU ground is working and you have lost circuit continuity on the blue wire.
see what I mean, its a dirt simple circuit that employs 4 switchs.
SW1 engine tank switch all the way up, commands pump off.
SW2 switch in the middle position,commands pump ON.
this switch simply bounces from SW1 to SW2 and back all day long, until something goes horribly wrong.
SW3 is the lowest switch,when closed commands pump on, commands RPM reduction,commands audible and grounds the circuit to illuminate the tach far left bar.
the ECU responds to SW2 or SW3 by applying a ground path on the blue wire between the transfer pump and the ECU.
if SWB is OPEN, or the circuit compromised, the ECU will NOT respond to SW3 or SW2.
however all alarm functions will work.
remember the ECU does NOT control the tach visual indicates, tach indicates are con*****ed by SWB and SW3 ground paths.
remove the ground from SWB, or unplug the connector at the remote tank, and the tach illuminates the center bar.
the ECU does monitor the switchs.
hope this helps.
Thanks and i understand this is a stupidly simple system but missing something.
If anyone knows the topic name of a previous post that might help please let me know and I will continue to read as many post as i can.
ok
at key on what does the tach oil indicates do?
should self test then display the far right bar.
if it displays a center bar it wont transfer automatically until SWB or the SWB circuit is repaired.
SWB is the switch in the remote tank. closed when oil level is sufficient for transfer.
open and NO automatic transfer AND the center bar lights.
you can also verify the ECU "sees" SWB closed, or open, with the lap top.
there is a splice on the black/red wire from the remote tank where it turns to green(or Green/white) heading to the tach and to typically green/black heading to the ECU.
a quick test, simply drain the engine tank, turn the key ON.
look at the tach.
you should have an audible and 3 bars flashing.
if you don't have 3 bars flashing check the SWB and associated wiring.
all SWB does is sit there and tell the ECU if there is sufficient oil for automatic transfer. remove the ground (open switch or circuit) and the tach sees the open and illuminates the center bar and the ECU sees the open and inhibits auto transfer.
if SWB passes the flasing bar test,make sure the remote tank is about 1/2 full, then on to some VOLTAGE testing.
with the remote tank about 1/2 full and SWB is known good as well as the circuits here is what happens.
when you drain the engine tank SW3 closes.
SW3 is the lowest switch on the engine tank.
SW3 commands the second transfer on command as well as setting the audible command and setting the far left bar on the tack via the green/red.
now IF the ECU 'sees' SW3 on AND SWB on it assumes 1 of two things.
1 is its an initial engine tank fill or 2 the system malfunctioned.
the ECU responds by applying a ground path via the blue wire from the ECU to the transfer pump.
this ground path will be applied for 180 seconds.
this is your test window.
have the meter set up from brown at the pump bullet connector to the engine block, pump connected.
anytime the key is on this should display battery voltage.
if this test passes on to the blue wire.
either use the manual switc ECU side bullet connector OR find the transfer pump blue wire at the ECU and back probe it with a paper clip.
now set the meter on the DC scale of at least 15V.
one lead at the pump blue wire bullet connector.
the other lead at the ECU blue wire.
turn the key on,you should have an audible and 3 bars flashing.
the meter should show less than 1/2 Volt within ten seconds and remain that way for 180 seconds.
if it shows battery voltage then the ECU ground is working and you have lost circuit continuity on the blue wire.
see what I mean, its a dirt simple circuit that employs 4 switchs.
SW1 engine tank switch all the way up, commands pump off.
SW2 switch in the middle position,commands pump ON.
this switch simply bounces from SW1 to SW2 and back all day long, until something goes horribly wrong.
SW3 is the lowest switch,when closed commands pump on, commands RPM reduction,commands audible and grounds the circuit to illuminate the tach far left bar.
the ECU responds to SW2 or SW3 by applying a ground path on the blue wire between the transfer pump and the ECU.
if SWB is OPEN, or the circuit compromised, the ECU will NOT respond to SW3 or SW2.
however all alarm functions will work.
remember the ECU does NOT control the tach visual indicates, tach indicates are con*****ed by SWB and SW3 ground paths.
remove the ground from SWB, or unplug the connector at the remote tank, and the tach illuminates the center bar.
the ECU does monitor the switchs.
hope this helps.
Thanks and i understand this is a stupidly simple system but missing something.
If anyone knows the topic name of a previous post that might help please let me know and I will continue to read as many post as i can.