Suzuki DT 140 cracked LU.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As promised (for S & G's), here's pic's one from each side;

[boscoe99]

You got to know when to hold em, know when to fold em.

[rodbolt17]

its pretty much normal corrosion.
most all makes do it, some worse than others.
mercury used to say pull the carrier once a year to clean it if used in saltwater.
pull the carrier,weld it. roll.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

its pretty much normal corrosion.
most all makes do it, some worse than others.
mercury used to say pull the carrier once a year to clean it if used in saltwater.
pull the carrier,weld it. roll.

That's what I wanted to hear, thank you!!!

[boscoe99]

The one good thing about the internet is that whatever position one wants backed up, is available.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, its a older engine, and dropping a couple hundred maybe vs $1,000 plus labor for a NEW housing is definitly preferred.

If it was much newer, it'd be worth it.

Its odd because that carrier extends WAY forward and is held in place with two bolts from the rear. I think the outer edge of the carrier corroded and that expanded. I know who ever did the fix before did NOT prime any of the welds/bare aluminum inside.

While on the subject, what product (rattle can) would be the best coating on any bare aluminum after machining?

I'm thinking what ever the shops use after bead blasting coolant passages/heads that are corroded up from salt...

[Nautical]

"Moeller " Zinc Chromate

[TownsendsFJR1300]

"Moeller " Zinc Chromate

Thank you!

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, I sent the above pic's to the machine shop for thier thoughts/price, etc.

They responded back that generally, welding the marine aluminum is a 50/50 shot due to its physical make up. We won't know until its in the welders hand.

It'll probably be another 3-4 months before my neighbor comes back and the u nit comes apart and goes out. (unless he finds another LU)..

[Nautical]

Well, I sent the above pic's to the machine shop for thier thoughts/price, etc.

They responded back that generally, welding the marine aluminum is a 50/50 shot due to its physical make up. We won't know until its in the welders hand.

It'll probably be another 3-4 months before my neighbor comes back and the u nit comes apart and goes out. (unless he finds another LU)..

He is right I would not weld it.The alloy used is mixture of aluminum ,titanium and other ingredients. Weld might hold for awhile but not to be trusted. Its a gamble.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, its my neighbors unit, he's going to be making the decision about it. We'll see..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Pulled the carrier out today. And it was stuck HARD in the case. A HD heat gun, lots of PB blaster and a HD puller with much perseverance got it out.

It appears the last weld job didn't penetrate much (if at all) and was ground down so it was nice and smooth BUT removed 80% of the original weld.

The CARRIER EDGE (that sits INSIDE THE Lower unit), had sooo much corrosion that apparently helped the cracking as it grew and expanded. The housing isn't super thick BUT isn't thin either.

We dropped the LU off at the machine shop later today I deal with and see what they can do with it.

$75-100 for the welding, (if the case takes to welding-which it did before) with instructions NOT to clean up the weld nice and smooth..

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Got the LU back today, $75 for welding.

We determined it was corrosion in the main carrier that split the case.

My neighbor had his aluminum prop serviced while it was apart.


***As an FYI for others, (a duh moment for me), should you need aluminum welded (LU's, etc), a PROP SHOP is about the best place to go. They weld super thin aluminum prop blades, build them up, etc....

Anyway, after some clean up internal grinding/ flushing, new carrier seal we got it back together. Pressure testing showed it nice and tight, no leaks. Shifting nice and solid, shifter dog looked good.

A new water pump impeller & plate installed (Suzuki uses a solid SS pump housing, SUPER HEAVY DUTY), installed and fresh paint drying....

We should have it mounted up Thursday.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

All assembled, re-painted and installed. Works great, looks even better.

With the prop re-furbed, much less cavitation as well, jumps up on plane, like now..... Total, less than $200.00 with EVERYTHING, vs $1,000 for an empty case, no prop, etc...

[zenoahphobic]

The one good thing about the internet is that whatever position one wants backed up, is available.

But no one will deny that this is a patch up job.