200HP 4 stroke no water thru "pee hole"

[TAEZZARS]

I have a set of 200 HP 4 stroke Yamaha's, F200XB & LF200XB (2014's)
My problem is with the LF200XB. Why trying to warm up the engines for their second oil change, the LF engine did not pass water thru the "pee hole". These engines have only 89 hrs total time & this could be a warranty item, but I am 150 miles from a dealer. Is there anything simple to do to get water flowing thru the engine? The engines were thoroughly flushed (15 minutes) prior to winter storage. Ooops, edit, The engines were drained, blow out with 10 psi air & the upper flush hose connections were left open.

[99yam40]

try sticking a piece of heave mono or weed wacker line in it to see if that will help or blow some compressed air up it while flushing to move things around some

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Were they used in salt water?

[99yam40]

The engines were drained, blow out with 10 psi air & the upper flush hose connections were left open.

could something have crawled up in there if left open.
I know down here some of the wasps will build mud nests in all sorts of open holes

[TAEZZARS]

Thanks guys, I have tried a pc of 80 lb mono, with no results.
These engine ONLY get used in salt water, but I am anal about flushing with Saltaway.
I do live where all kinds of bugs hide in holes, haven't found one.

Finally got a call back from my dealer in Coos Bay. He thinks an internal failure.
Will get it looked at next Friday (5th of June) & I will post the results so we all know.
Thanks again for the thoughts.

[99yam40]

Have you tried the hose flush port or just running on muffs or in the water itself?

If you have compressed air handy ,I would give that a shot while on flush hose too

[TAEZZARS]

Here is my report as promised. I hope it helps.
The dealer took the lower unit off & the water pump housing had a blockage where it tappers out to the .50 dia. (approx.) passage hole (looking down on the impeller housing). The housing material appeared to be melted, but the melted material was very thin & only over the hole. The stainless insert had no discoloration, nor did the plastic housing. Dang, I should have taken a photo.
We then dropped the right engine L/U and found it to be OK. Interestingly the wear patterns of the impellers onto the bottom of the stainless inserts were different. In the good pump housing the pattern was consistent, in the housing that would not pee, the pattern was very wide near the intake port. The dealer agreed to warranty the housing & impeller, due to no discoloration on the stainless insert nor the plastic housing.

As a heads up, the dealer says that Yamaha issued a bulletin stating that BOTH the garden hose connection AND the "muffs" should be used when flushing the motor while running. Interesting that neither Yamaha NOR my dealer has bothered to tell the engine owners. They only told me because I was there with a related problem.

[99yam40]

I believe the owners manual said not to run motor if using only the hose connection.

But I have known some that have without problems.
were you doing this when flushing your motors?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe the owners manual said not to run motor if using only the hose connection.

were you doing this when flushing your motors?

The hundred dollar question!

[mesias_yam]

As a heads up, the dealer says that Yamaha issued a bulletin stating that BOTH the garden hose connection AND the "muffs" should be used when flushing the motor while running. Interesting that neither Yamaha NOR my dealer has bothered to tell the engine owners. They only told me because I was there with a related problem.

It would be interesting to see that bulletin... How those with the boats in the water will manage?

[TAEZZARS]

Not to sound arrogant, nor unappreciative, but just to explain, I am 72 years old & have had outboards since the Merc 1000 (100 HP) back in 1964. I do know how to flush an outboard & never had an impeller problem until now. This some of why I am a bit nervous about this issue.

I don't like the new method of the upper hose attachment, I choose to use the "muffs" & run the engine, as this puts water directly at the impeller. Also I feel the warmer water will get more salt out of the system. After this fiasco, I have put a Y in my hose line & run both as insurance. These engines are way too pricey to melt down, let alone the reliability I need, 40/50 miles out, chasing tuna.
BTW, I use Saltaway as a final rinse. ( I run each motor, one at a time).

As for the bulletin, I did not see one. I guess you would have to ask your local dealer, or contact Yamaha. Also, if it is such an issue, why doesn't Yamaha contact owners & send the bulletin to them ?
mesias_yam, you make a interesting point, I agree.
Thanks to all of you for taking the time to help.

P.S. These are the finest engines I have ever owned.

[rodbolt17]

never saw that bulliten. I also NEVER run F150 and larger 4 strokes on a flush muff alone.
I will use the flush attachment on the motor alone but NEVER the flush muffs.

my F150 will overheat on just the muffs as will most F150,200,225 and 250.

[TAEZZARS]

never saw that bulliten. I also NEVER run F150 and larger 4 strokes on a flush muff alone.
I will use the flush attachment on the motor alone but NEVER the flush muffs.

my F150 will overheat on just the muffs as will most F150,200,225 and 250.

I have the same question that mesias_yam has. How do engines in the water manage ?

I had a Honda 150 that I ran on muffs for years w/o issue.

The muffs must completely cover the inlets & water pressure must be strong.
With that being done, where is the issue?

[rodbolt17]

due to the odd curve of some of the Yamaha gearcases most muffs wont seal correctly.
its just to easy to use the onboard flusher.

most F250 and larger I actually run 2 hoses due to the large volume of water those motors use.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've seen the marina use the combo set up after some newer seals and WP. He (a Master tech) started with both turn on, then went just to the muffs to make water was getting to the power head with the WP.

I flush with the hose outlet first, then fire it up on the muffs ONLY just(as mentioned above) to get the thermostat open and water everywhere.

I recorded my F150 (showed the alarm working initially) on the muffs ONLY. No overheat, never has since new;

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/SRT...ff81b.mp4.html




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