2012 f-150

[ReelFun1]

can anyone explain to me how to change the fuel filter element , talking about the filter mounted on the front of the motor.also I have been flushing my motor per the owners manual , someone recently told me I must run the engine to get a proper flush account thermostats , any thoughts?

[99yam40]

think about it
can you get water through a closed stat

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with the above 100%, especially if run in brackish/saltwater.

With that said, I run the water thru the aux hose on the port side of the engine(not running) for probably 10 minutes. Then I hook up the muffs to the LU and run it again (engine running) at least 10 minutes, to get the thermostat open and water Everywhere..

I also flush the speedometer pitot hole with a "V" washer hose. Flushes all the salt out that VERY SMALL orifice as you pressurize it. Keeps the speedometer (if your using the pressure speedometer, working)



Re the fuel filter, they changed the style over the years, if you can post the specific MODEL #(like TLXR) would help. Looking up your engine on the parts fisch (up right, in RED, "Purchase Yamaha Parts") is a big help.

Changing out your fuel filter should be in the owners manual as well

[ReelFun1]

replacing fuel filter

thanks guys for your input. my motor model is f150xa , serial # 63p x 1122741 c . the filter housing is plastic. I assume it is threaded but I don't want to damage it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here's the parts fisch for your engine, fuel system 1;

2006 and Later F150XA Yamaha Outboard FUEL 1 Diagram and Parts

Part #8 specifically shows how it goes together and yes its threaded.

That procedure should be in your owners manual if you have it.

Also, if you click above on the right side atop in RED, "Purchase Yamaha Parts"
you can bring up your engine and various componants.

[fairdeal]

thanks guys for your input. my motor model is f150xa , serial # 63p x 1122741 c . the filter housing is plastic. I assume it is threaded but I don't want to damage it

Grasp the "bowl" firmly and "unscrew" - just as you would a bottle or jar.

If you "google" you will see that some owners have reported substantial difficulty - attributed by some to ethanol related "swelling" of the plastic - both in removing the bowl, and in getting it back on.

You can read stories of removing the entire assembly from the engine and putting it in a freezer

[ReelFun1]

thanks guys for the help. I feel more comfortable putting a little pressure on the filter housing now that I see how it works

[rodbolt17]

typically when they are that swollen, I have to remove the cup/housing.
lock it in a vice upside down and use a strap wrench.
sometimes it destroys the cup.
if under warrenty have a dealer do it.
if it comes off typically it will take 12-24 hours before it shrinks enough to reinstall.

[Scialoop]

What percentage ethanol do you have in the states?

Where i'm from I have never had a stuck filter bowl (lucky I know) but ethanol is not so prevalent here.

[boscoe99]

What percentage ethanol do you have in the states?

Where i'm from I have never had a stuck filter bowl (lucky I know) but ethanol is not so prevalent here.

By law it is not supposed to exceed 10%. However, it is not con*****ed very well. Actual tests done on gasoline from pumps has indicated an ethanol content of greater than 20%.

[rodbolt17]

in the past 7 yrs since we have had puke fuel I have seen it as high as 30% in the tester.

E fuels have been the biggest waste of taxpayer funds EVER.

however I refer to it as the marine technician stimulus package.

I got my stimulus funds.

it CANNOT be piped by law. it must be trucked and blended at the fuel distribution terminal.

yep, its so corrosive federal law says it cannot be blended then piped.

yet by federal law we have to put it on our gas tanks.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My 06 F150 has a slip into a plastic bracket type set up(a bit different from the OP's, with a separate nut).. I could force it out but was swollen approx .015", no way it was going back in.

At the time, I wasn't aware of the "freezer trick".

I'm on the third cup in 8 years(original, one under warranty, then I bought one, about $10.00). I heaven't used ethonol in the boat the last at least three years.

I'd be curious if this one has expanded...

[99yam40]

Try it and see what happens

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Try it and see what happens

Probably next week. Been a long two days helping my neighbor with a Suzuki 140 with very cracked foot, (not the skeg) but adjacent to the prop shaft both sides. (Bad metallurgy-about 5", each side)...

Got the boat off the lift, back on the trailer, pulled the foot yesterday to drive 2.5 hours to a place that supposedly repairs them.

What a joke... The work out of a storage area(like a half a garage), don't do the welding there. Mechanic says "run it till it blows up, then fix it". WTH???

My neighbors a part time resident so they would have 3-4 months to screw with it. One person it can stay there once done until he gets back, the mechanic says once it's done, come get or it may get sold. WTF?? Needless to say, we still have it.

I forgot about a local place that does EXCELLENT MACHINE work and welding. I can weld but not aluminum... So Monday, we'll swing by there with the foot and let them have a look...

I'll mess with my filter cup when things slow down just a bit... Your splitting the bill with me if I can't get It back on!!! (ABOUT $5.00)

[99yam40]

at least you will prove it was not the ethanol causing the swelling
or maybe you have not been buying what you think you have

Anyway if you get it off OK then it should go back even if you have to let it dry for a few days.

I have found that welding alum that has been in saltwater and corroded is not easy to weld. Make sure to find someone that has experience doing it and the correct welding equipment( high frequency machine). good luck