Precision Blend doesn't keep up at high throttle settings.

[diveprez]

Greetings.

I searched the threads and came to realize my problem may be more complicated than I thought. I have a '91 150 ETLD on an '89 Grady-White 204CC that I've owned (and totally rebuilt) for 7 years. The digital combination gauge has never worked, neither has the tilt sensor (at least it doesn't show). Everything worked great until I had the engine pulled (by a shop) to replace the mid-section steering arm (seriously corroded). Now, when I run ABOVE 3600 it runs fine for maybe :30 then the alarm and engine speed reduction kicks in. If I shut it off for maybe three minutes, it will start up and run below 3600 for four or five minutes, but then alarm and reduced speed. This continues until something clicks and I can run all the way back in at under 3600. It's driving me crazy. The guys at the shop just want to start replacing parts, but I've seen from the forum (BTW, you guys really know your stuff!) that it might be a tilt sensor or CDI problem, and my shop guys have never mentioned any of that. OK.., it's an old motor, but it runs (ran) great, has terrific compression, a new lower unit, etc, etc. I can run it below 3600, but I go offshore, and when it's flat or I see bad stuff coming I want to get back ASAP. So.., here's what I know. I bled the system first thing. The remote tank pump works. However, it ONLY RUNS for :30 with engine off and switch on. The oil level in the engine tank is never below the low mark on the tank. I've pulled the sensor and it looks fine and the screen is clean. I've got a Clymer manual, but the oil section is not helpful. My wife and kids are really $@&%$ (at me!) when that alarm goes off and we shut down offshore. It ruins the whole fishing vibe!

Thanks in advance..., you guys rock!

[boscoe99]

When the alarm sounds, stop and check the oil level in the main (engine mounted) tank. If it is low the alarm will sound and the motor will go into RPM reduction mode.

When was the last time that the oil strainer at the remote tank was replaced? If it is partially clogged it may restrict the flow of oil such that the pump cannot keep the main tank filled as needed.

Here is something you can do for yourself. Remove the plastic sump from the main oil tank and drain the oil into a clean container. Put the oil in the remote boat mounted tank. Reattach and secure the sump. Turn the key to the ON position. The pump should run for 180 seconds or until the main oil tank is full. If the main oil tank is not being filled in three minutes time you have a clogged strainer, pinch oil transfer line or perhaps a very weak pump.

Why not get the tachometer and trim sender fixed?

[diveprez]

Thanks Bosco

I'll check the remote tank strainer. I hadn't thought about the oil line being kinked.., I'll check that too.

[greasyshaft]

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[diveprez]

Thanks Greasyshaft

Great name BTW. Will do. Ran today.., same problem. Didn't know to check vent hole, but it's lined up. I'll drain main and check remote tank screen and flow in AM.., supposed to go offshore tomorrow (weather permitting). Thanks for your help. We'll get this bugger fixed!

[rodbolt17]

why are you jacking with the engine tank????????>
if you pulled that switch assy did you RECOVER the strainer to tank gasket????

[diveprez]

morning update

Hello rodbolt.., I had the boat in the shop last week and the mech pulled the sender and screen to show me it wasn't blocked and that the float worked. I don't remember if there was a gasket or not. I remember he lined up the arrows when he put it back in. I think I found the problem. The hoses and control stuff that runs through the grommet on the engine cover were just jammed in and the metal "hold down" must've been torqued on with a air tool. The remote switch by the main tank now fills the main much faster. I've also removed the remote tank and replaced the small in-line strainer. A question though..., how does the remote tank vent? I couldn't see anything and I hesitate to put it back in without making sure it's correct.

Thanks

[diveprez]

Greasyshaft was correct!

Back from a seatrial with an infrared thermometer. Ran it up to 4300 after warm-up..., the alarm went off and the hottest cylinder was 155. Bad thermoswitch. Thanks greasyshaft! A $35 fix..., gotta love it.

[diveprez]

Everybody was right!

Went offshore yesterday and no "overheating" message from bad thermosensors.., However low oil kicked in after 1/2 hour run at 4000 RPM. The pump on the remote tank can't keep up and slowly draws the main tank down. Question.., can the pump only be replaced or is the tank and pump a unit?

[rodbolt17]

why not fix the restriction between the remote tank and the engine tank?
google some.
do some forum searchs.
I have beat the stupidly simple precision blend operation to death.