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remove driveshaft bushing??

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  • remove driveshaft bushing??

    Hello....newbie to this forum. I have searched and found a few threads pertaining to totally removing the driveshaft bushing and running engine without it. Has anyone done this and had no bad outcome of doing so for an extended period of time? My 03 F90 was squealing so I dropped lower to grease the bushing and found it has mostly disentigrated and the area it is supposed to be is so corroded I doubt a new one will go back in and stay properly. The only thing left was part of the bronze or brass bushing and it pretty much just fell apart when I poked at it. The snap ring was still there as is most of the lip it sits in but I have never seen one with the bushing removed so I'm not sure about if there is enough meat there to hold it. i cleaned a lot of corroded junk out of there. Sorry for the long post. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    anybody?

    trying again. i'm afraid to run motor without the bushing until i get some input from others that have done it. i get mixed opinions from mechanics, thanks

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    • #3
      Well, Yamaha put it in there for a reason. I suspect to keep lateral slop in the driveshaft in check.

      I don't think I would gamble with pulling it out.

      As long as you use the Yamaha waterproof marine grease(not marine wheel bearing grease) , it'll stay quiet for several years at least..

      It should be lubed once a year anyway.


      In your case get a new bearing and see how tight it fits. If its not as tight as it should be, they make different grades of locktite, (super heavy duty, thick, etc) which would probably work for you... Of course the housing has to be clean before application.. Loctite it in, let sit over night and see how well it holds. In normal instances, it works great. Depending on much slop is in there, IDK, the tighter the better thou..
      Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 06-13-2015, 11:49 AM.
      Scott
      1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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      • #4
        clear the bushing bore, remove the snap ring. clean the snap ring groove.
        install a new bushing and the ring.
        reassemble and go play.

        I typically break up the bronze portion to remove the rubber outershell.

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        • #5
          Many have removed the bushing completely. Either by choice or by necessity if and when the bushing support structure corrodes away. Many have simply honed the bushing out to the point where it no longer can service any possible purpose. Some motors don't even have the bushing and their drive shafts seem to hold up just fine.

          I would like to think that Yamaha only uses parts that are essential and critical but experience has shown me otherwise. If one part is suitable for a job then Yams modus operandi seems to be let's use three or more.
          Last edited by boscoe99; 06-13-2015, 01:17 PM.

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          • #6
            corrosion

            thanks for the replies.

            i am sort of the same opinion in that if they put it there it supposed to be there, however i had a 200 johnson with a long shaft and there was nothing even close to any bushing in it that i know of and it is still running good and burning lots of gas.

            so if i can'tget the bushing tight enough due to the loss of metal from corrosion do you suppose 5200 would keep it in? if a new one lasts another 12 years it wont owe me a thing.

            thanks again

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            • #7
              I would use JB weld.

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              • #8
                not good....

                local dealer had bushing in stock.

                well the worst case scenario is what i have. the bushing pretty much just slipped right in the case with very little resistance after i cleaned all the loose crud out of it. i was able use a piece of soft aluminum wire with a hook on the end and it pretty much just slipped back out of the hole.

                rodbolt, how can i be sure the bushing will be aligned with the shaft if i use jb weld? i would assume if it were crooked it could wear on the shaft? perhaps shove the shaft thru before jb weld cures completly?
                Last edited by ncfishhawk; 06-13-2015, 07:30 PM. Reason: remove word

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                • #9
                  yepo.
                  JB weld it.
                  install the lower with two bolts.
                  let it sit 12-24 hrs.
                  drop the lower ,grease it and reinstall.

                  or leave it out and see what happens.
                  I don't have any experience with leaving it out positive or negative.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by rodbolt17 View Post
                    yepo.
                    JB weld it.
                    install the lower with two bolts.
                    let it sit 12-24 hrs.
                    drop the lower ,grease it and reinstall.

                    or leave it out and see what happens.
                    I don't have any experience with leaving it out positive or negative.
                    OK the deed is done. I coated the outside with the jb and let it sit over night. Just put it all back together greased very well with triple guard.

                    One last question.... Any water that gets in the housing above the bushing I assume can escape between the saft and bushing since now there is no channel outside of the bushing. Its all full of jb weld now.

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                    • #11
                      that fit between the shaft and bushing isn't water tight.

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