2002 LF225 stalled and now won't start

[bacardi23]

Hi guys!

I've got a 2002 LF225 that was running pretty good and without any issues since I fixed it back in september until yesterday..

I went fishing yesterday..I drove to some of my spots, turned the engine off and drifted while fishing for groupers than moved to another spot and so on whilst always shutting off the engine when I got to the spots..

Anyways, about 2 or 3 miles out at about 5 or 6 knots and the engine stalled but I was able to turn the key off, set it in neutral and was able to restart it immediately after...

This happened about 4 or 5 times while fishing yesterday and I thought the main fuel tank was almost empty..after the 2nd time I switched to the 2nd tank and primed but it kept happening..

Just when we were picking up to back head back to the marina it stalled once more about 10seconds after I turned it on but it would not start again nor does the Trim work on both the 701 control box nor the engine...

I had to use the little backup engine the trustful 2-stroke 15HP Yamaha to get back to the marina... took me about two hours for a 15/20min drive...lol

Anyways.. I went back to the marina this morning with the multimeter and extra fuses but all the fuses check out ok and the battery is fully charged but still sprayed some electric contact cleaner and put in new fuses but nothing changed..

Before, with the ignition key on the ON position I would hear the fuel pump but now I don't hear the fuel pump working (I believe)...
The only thing "weird" is a buzzing from the main relay that I never heard before which probably was the reason I said "believe" I didn't hear the normal fuel pump noise..



SO, my question is: How do I test the main relay?
on mine it is written SN2210 1F29

It's the part #30 according to the Boats.net diagram


#30 RELAY ASSY 68V-81950-00-00

Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!

Vando

[rodbolt17]

its a simple relay.

typically if a relay,like a solenoid, makes a buzzing or chattering sound the control voltage is to low.

I would check all the battery connections.

[zenoahphobic]

yep, voltage drop, resistance somewhere.

yep, auxillary motor use adds hours and greater exposure to danger (e.g. running down sea, or against heavy sea). Ideally your auxillary motor should get your boat up on plane, but who would put a much bigger motor on and also has the capacity on the transom. But this not your problem posted.

[bacardi23]

well... I just went down to the marina to check the voltages.

I get 12.78 at the starter motor which is the same as the battery.
I removed the main fuse and measured the voltages.
between pins 2 and 3 (green/yellow and red/yellow) I also get 12.78v
but between the other cables I get 11.86v..

It started to rain so I put all the covers back on and removed the battery cables and came home..

how so I test the relay here at home? ohms and continuity (and voltage drop across pins)

Most likely I will have to bring the boat home because it's much easier to test here...
I just have to figure out how I can lift the engine with the trim?


As for the backup engine.. it suits my needs an uses, so no problem with that.
I live on a 38sq miles island..about 2miles off the coast it's already about 1000m (just over 3000feet) deep an there are 4 seaports around the island there's that.. I was almost 2/5th around the island from main seaport where I got the boat now.. so 2 hours at half throttle on the backup engine is not much of a problem

[boscoe99]

Having two of the same model makes life a bit simpler. If you suspect the relay then simply swap relays between the two motors. See if the problem moves to the other motor or stays on the same motor.

I would double check all electrical connections wherever they may be. At the battery, at the battery switch, at the motor, between various points on the motor, etc.

[bacardi23]

Hi Boscoe... yes that would be awesome but I only got one main engine and no one else here on the island has one of the same..

What's bothering me the most is that none of the 6 fuses I can see are blown and that main relay that is just below the "trim relay box" and only secured by one screw is making a loud buzz noise that never made before..

Is there a way to safely hot wire the power trim to lift the engine?
I'd rather do that instead of untightening the pressure release bolt to raise the engine..

Anyways, tomorrow I'll be going with my father to the marina pontoon to manually lift the the engine so we can load it on to the trailer and bring it home..

Boscoe, would you be kind enough to test one of your main relays for continuity, resistance (ohms) and voltage drop? (voltage drop is measured on the continuity test.. example: red on pin1 and black on pin2 and black on pin1 and red on pin2 and so forth..) should give the voltage drop

Thanks in advance

[boscoe99]

You got me. It is unusual (but not unheard of) to have a single LF225 on a boat. I assumed (yes, I know) that if there was an LF225 installed then there was also an F225 installed. That is, that the boat had two motors. Sorry.

To get the motor tilted up just disconnect the control circuit coupler to the relay. Then, using a jumper wire, apply 12 volts to the terminal with the blue wire. The relay should then cause the trim motor to run which will bring the motor up.


I don't have a relay to test. Not sure what that would indicate to you anyway. If the relay is buzzing that is not normal. If and when a ground is applied to the relay control circuit by the ECU the relay should close and nary a sound should be made methinks. There should be a slight voltage drop across the control circuit side because of the diodes that are involved. Across the power side the voltage drop should be nil. First thing that I would do is to disconnect and reconnect the relay multiple times. Thinking being that you might have corrosion build up which can be scrubbed off by disconnecting and reconnecting the relay.

Here is a diagram of the relay. All red/yellow wires have 12 volt power to them from the fuse block. The yellow/green wire is grounded by the ECU to close the relay. On a bench you can apply power and a ground to the control circuit and see if the relay closes without buzzing.

[zenoahphobic]

Test the voltage at various points when you switch, particularly at the relay when it buzzes. I know you need another super long arm to do this.
Another way to find where the "resistance" is to feel for heat build up (back of hand), this is good if there still is sufficient current flowing.

[bacardi23]

Well, my father got a really got price on one to replace the Yamaha 130hp 2-stroke we had before...

When doing the relay check listed on the service manual it says:
MainRelay.JPG

After the last step I get NO continuity between pins 1-2 or 1-3 but get continuity between 2-3.. do they just mean between 1-2 and 1-3? or also 2-3?



I wasn't able to go get the boat from the marina today.. wind is blowing North 35knots and just makes it unsafe for moving the boat...


As for the power trim... what type of jumper cable do you mean? car battery jumper cables or thin cable just like the wiring harness??
So, I got to connect the skyblue cable to positive... and what about the negative cable?? :S

[boscoe99]

My suggestion now is that you take the motor to a marine mechanic and let him fix the problem for you.

If he will, have him explain to you what he is doing to the motor while he is doing it. It will be a valuable learning experience for you. Have him explain how a relay works. Control circuit side and power side. Both the main relay and the trim and tilt relay. You will be getting the motor fixed while at the same time be getting some knowledge.

[bacardi23]

All due respect Sir but I'm no novice at this.
I know my way around engines and electronics.
The only issue between our communication here is simply a language barrier, nothing else.
That's why I ask too many questions.


Plus, as for "marine mechanic" there is only one here and I doubt he knows anything about engines. heck, he must've been self proclaimed one I guess..

My father took the engine to finish putting it back together -as a surprise for me- just a few days before I came from college couldn't make the engine cycle through F-N-R.
On the day I came back from college, Do you have any idea of what he was doing to make it move??
He had a big hammer and a block of wood and was beating the shit out of the main shaft just right beneath the air intakes to make it move! He said it was seized!

That kind of mechanic? or should I say butcher?

[zenoahphobic]

Language difficulty and culturAl differences, even geographical distances can cause misunderstandings. Patience and careful reading , between the lines if need be. Hard.

[greasyshaft]

Just curious but why do you have to jump the trim and tilt?
Does the engine even turn over?

I'm jumping on the voltage drop bandwagon.

That relay has nothing to do with trim/tilt or turning the engine over.
Bypass your battery cables with some jumpers - that will rule out anything in the boat (assuming you have a good battery)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As for the power trim... what type of jumper cable do you mean? car battery jumper cables or thin cable just like the wiring harness??
So, I got to connect the skyblue cable to positive... and what about the negative cable?? :S

The two wires that actually go to the PTT motor. Unplug so you have access to the electric motor wire ends.

+ and - power to them (to the electric motor itself) will raise or lower the engine. Reversing the wires will make the engine go in the opposite direction.

Use at least the same size gauge wire and run direct to a good 12 volt battery.

[bacardi23]

Greastshaft: Since the engine stalled, the power t/t also stopped working and therefore I can't lift the engine out of the water...

Thanks Townsend that's what I needed to know


I'm going right now to raise the engine because it has been sitting in saltwater since wednesday..


Be back in an hour or so!