I've resealed the lower unit on my 1998 25 hp Yamaha two cycle because there was evidence of water in the oil when I drained it. All seals and o-rings were replaced - upper and lower. I had a 15 lb pressure test on the lower unit while it was in a tank of water. No bubbles and the unit held 15 lbs overnight but after a hour test run in the water and another half hour in a drum the lube turned up milky again., I did another pressure test that held again overnight, I'm I missing something here?
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milky lower gear lube
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Yeah, often a pressure test isn't very indicative of things. Truth is, it's not important if the gear oil leaks out (obviously from an eco standpoint it could be), but whether water leaks in. A vacuum test would be a better test. How were the sealing surfaces? If they're worn/grooved, that could do it, too.2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Thanks for the input- Both upper and lower seals are double- back to back in the same direction with the rubber lips facing out as per the manual and that's the way the came out. Also new o-rings and one gasket. I cleaned sealing surfaces they looked ok. unit with pressure held and showed no bubbles in tank even when I rotated drive shaft and prop. I'm thinking 99yam40 idea that there may have been water left in the unit when I did repair could be the culprit but that's a long shot.
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
How does one perform a vacuum test -
meaning,
what is the pass/fail criteria?2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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Originally posted by fisherman363 View PostLooks like I may have gotten some bad advice on u tube- according to service manual first seal lips face down and second seal lips face up.
or Seloc etc?
although the application is obviously identical,
outboard manufacturers have approached it differently -
(so, IMO, there can't be a clear 'right' or 'wrong')
I've seen Mercury specify each of the two seals facing opposite
but I have never seen a Yamaha factory manual
- or parts listing -
where the orientation is "magnified" for clarity,
show anything other than this:
Last edited by fairdeal; 03-16-2021, 12:16 PM.
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Originally posted by fairdeal View Post
outboard manufacturers have approached it differently -
(so, IMO, there can't be a clear 'right' or 'wrong')
If I remember correctly, though, the general idea is that the spring should face the thing that you want to keep out. So in this case, either both springs would face the water or the inner spring would face the oil and the outer spring would face the water. Again, though, that's if I'm remembering correctly.......2000 Yamaha OX66 250HP SX250TXRY 61AX103847T
1982 Grady Weekender/Offshore (removed stern drive & modded to be an OB)
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https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-700...5911218&sr=8-6
I forget the values, but when I did my 225 lowers they said it should hold "X" pounds of vacuum for an hour. It did. So I then doubled "X" and let it sit for a few hours. It held. Put a smile on my face.
You can get one for less if you shop around.
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Originally posted by oldmako69 View Posthttps://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-700...5911218&sr=8-6
I forget the values, but when I did my 225 lowers they said it should hold "X" pounds of vacuum for an hour. It did. So I then doubled "X" and let it sit for a few hours. It held. Put a smile on my face.
You can get one for less if you shop around.
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Seals are installed as fairdeal shows in diagram. I cleaned out lower unit after draining and found about 3 ounces of milky lube that didn't drain. Used a vacuum pump and pulled 29 inches that held for the 15 minutes I waited. I will refill and run unit assuming that the milky oil was just caused by the lube left in unit after draining. Gearcase now has passed both a pressure and vacuum test - I'll report back in a couple weeks unless someone has another idea.
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