2016 F115XB, no spark or injector pulse

[PSConnecticut]

I have a 2016 F115XB with 75 hours on the motor and " 0" hours on a rebuilt powerhead. Motor was submerged salt water. Block was rebored new sleeves. New bearings, etc.
Static compression 155 +/- 2psi all four cylinders. Main relay working HP fuel pump kicks on/off harness test good. ECM harness test good. Injectors and coils have voltage going to them per SM testing. No injector pulse or spark when turning over. PTT works, starter works, obviously. There was no key when we purchased as salvage. Came across in manual YCOP. YCOP shuts off fuel and spark? Is it possible this boat has YCOP on it? Would Yamaha know by VIN if YCOP had been installed on this motor?
I suppose the ECM could be toast, hoping not. 95% of engine connectors were super clean lacking corrosion. Main relay and ECM are potted so no water intrusion.
Any suggestions?

Thanks

[fairdeal]

My knowledge of Y-Cop is scant.

my understanding if it were "installed"
a module would have been connected via the Command Link bus,
and that module would have "written to" the engine ECM

I believe if you connect to the ECM via YDIS
(even the older version)
you would see a diagnostic code "86" for 'immobilizer'
if that were the problem.

[PSConnecticut]

My knowledge of Y-Cop is scant.

my understanding if it were "installed"
a module would have been connected via the Command Link bus,
and that module would have "written to" the engine ECM

I believe if you connect to the ECM via YDIS
(even the older version)
you would see a diagnostic code "86" for 'immobilizer'
if that were the problem.

Traced wiring last night cannot find a Command Link buss where the YCOP would connect. Boat has the dual 6Y8 round gauges not connected to a buss they loop around under the helm and connect to harness, no buss connector.

[fairdeal]

Traced wiring last night cannot find a Command Link buss where the YCOP would connect. Boat has the dual 6Y8 round gauges not connected to a buss they loop around under the helm and connect to harness, no buss connector.

I assumed you obtained the salvaged motor 'by itself"
and that the Y-cop might have been connected in its "previous life"
since Once connected to the Y-Cop module,
the ECM "remembers".

But if it wasn't connected to a Command Link bus & Y-Cop module
when it was last running,
(before it sunk)
then Y-Cop isn't involved now.

[99yam40]

Did you check crank position sensor and any other output to the ECM.
the ECM needs to know what is going on to inject and spark at the correct times.

[PSConnecticut]

Did you check crank position sensor and any other output to the ECM.
the ECM needs to know what is going on to inject and spark at the correct times.

Problem solved. Apparently the 18 pin ECM connector was not fully seated. Motor kicked right off but stalled immediately, repeatedly. Disconnected the ISC connector from the ISC and the hose going to the throttle body ( Read on here about faulty ISC possibly screwing up ECM) fired right up high idle at 1200 rpm sounds good. Manual says you can do stationary and active test of the ISC with YDIS, which I need to buy now. Separated the ISC and applied 12V to see if it would move, no luck. Resistance is good. Possibly rusted shaft. If anyone knows the voltage pinout to operate the ISC I'd appreciate it, the SM schematic doesn't give enough info. Also, does the ISC hold the last position on shutdown? What is the ISC response rate to change RPM? Thanks for the responses.

[fairdeal]

The ISC is a "stepper motor" with multiple coils
you can't "test it" by simply connecting a coil to power and ground

that will not make it 'run'
it needs multiple alternating pulses

you can do that, using a 12V AC wall wart and a capacitor,

but if you have doubts about whether it is good,
probably makes more sense to simply buy an 'aftermarket" replacement from eBay

[fairdeal]

setup for 'bench testing' an IAC

[PSConnecticut]

The ISC is a "stepper motor" with multiple coils
you can't "test it" by simply connecting a coil to power and ground

that will not make it 'run'
it needs multiple alternating pulses

you can do that, using a 12V AC wall wart and a capacitor,

but if you have doubts about whether it is good,
probably makes more sense to simply buy an 'aftermarket" replacement from eBay

Fairdeal you're right. Ordered one last night. I'll play around with this one later with the YDIS or wall wart.