Removing Steering Cable

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The primer bulb does prime in this position (in this particular boat/motor combo). I do use it rarely if flushing the VST, but for filter changes the fuel pump with this engine WILL pull some serious fuel (with a completly dry transom filter) but thanks for the note.

I am aware of how it should be however, if you look closley my fuel filter is raised ABOVE the transom (to clear the see thru water collector and the deck). I carry a spare steel only filter(should the plastic cup break), a 3/8" male to male brass fuel line adapter as well as a spare primer bumb in the tool box.

Should I trim the engine upwards fully, if the primer was verticle, the fuel line and bulb would bind up..

As a side note, when they re-rigged this engine in 2007, they wrapped not only all the electrical lines and part of the fuel lines in ONE "run" (at the engine) but ALSO the control (shifter and speed) cables as well (quite bound up). I had to re-rig those and spend easily a day "re-rigging" the "rats nest" of wires under the center console (making the CC useless as it was nothing but wires..



(the schrader valve is for flushing the speedometer tube clear)

[bajakeith]

Townsend

you take damn good pics...the W/S with the plastic on the bottom is for inboard motor(s) apps.....myself don't like speedos in the salt..Ive seen a few break under the dash and give a good saltwater bath..first time was many years ago when I was just starting..a guy calls me is freaking out that water is pourin/out of his gauges..wasn't a pretty sight to see..so now I install with av tack or indian head shellac and use two tiny zip ties..but the "nipple" on the guage can/has also broken....question ? what does the speedo hit when you give a shot of air and there is a restriction???

[TownsendsFJR1300]

you take damn good pics...the W/S with the plastic on the bottom is for inboard motor(s) apps.....myself don't like speedos in the salt..Ive seen a few break under the dash and give a good saltwater bath..first time was many years ago when I was just starting..a guy calls me is freaking out that water is pourin/out of his gauges..wasn't a pretty sight to see..so now I install with av tack or indian head shellac and use two tiny zip ties..but the "nipple" on the guage can/has also broken....question ? what does the speedo hit when you give a shot of air and there is a restriction???

Thanks. I wasn't aware of the W/S for inboards only, tks.

Here's a link to the thread I made on the set up and how it works;

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th23159.html


Its a standard Yamaha water pressure speedometer. Its buried way up in the dash (accessable ONLY by removing either the dash, or a side, 6" console stereo speaker) and that hose will NOT come off unless you literally cut it off the nipple. (Extremly difficult to get to).

As for the speedometer reading, with water pressure from a garden hose at the LU, it'll read about 35MPH (to flush ALL the salt water out. Then the mini "Slime" air compressor plugged into the schrader valve to blow all the water out. The speedometer will read about 17 MPH cleared out.




Ever since I installed the set up (again, flush after every use), the speedometer has always worked down to 4 MPH(the lowest designed into it). Should it clog up under way and backing up doesn't clear it, a spritz of the compressor will. I did have issues with salt water blocking, speedometer sticking, etc. When I FIRST blew out the line, I got about 3/4 cup of salt/brackish water that was laid up in the hose under the floor(where the hose routes)





The boat, when NOT being used is under cover so the sun isn't beating on it(especially how strong the sun is down here);

[bajakeith]

Townsend

Good pics as always...nice lift/rack.. where is your boat at ?...BTW,,Ya, I notice stuff....your steering wheel/helm is whats usally used for hydrolic steering...but does look good in that app. ...funny, Ill go over a boat and in a few minutes point out stuff to owners that they never knew or thought about..and just because its factory...DOES NOT MEAN ITS DONE RIGHT !! remember a small simple fact about boats..the "factory are fiberglass boys !! not electrical,propulsion,rigging experts !! nuff said....good Day

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yea, that sized boat is about the cut off for manual steering.

I bought the bought as a demo (steering was stock "Angler") and originally had a 150 V6 Evinrude. This Yamaha is definitly heavier then the V6..

I wouldn't mind hydralic steering but this works fine, still no slop, original everything... When if the cable/box fails, I'd probably look hard at the hydralic systems.

I live In Cape Coral, SW Florida, adjacent to Ft Myers, (about 2 hours south of Tampa). Those pic's are in my backyard, obviously with the boat on the lift. I made all the "walk arounds", etc (as the lift was for a much larger boat).

BTW, This current Yamaha was a re-power in 2007. A private marina/ mostly canvas stuff did the re-power... That was a mistake on my part going there..

However, I did get an extra 1.5 years warranty in ADDITION TO the extended warranty (I bought) as they FORGOT TO MAIL in the paperwork to Yamaha..

[bajakeith]

warrenty good..canvas shop doing motors ??

That's a sweet boat lift..never been to fl. I checked a NOAA ( the guy with ark, lots of two animals) chart and from fort myers I can just about make it to the Bahamas and refuel...18.5 Livingston catermaran 1400 lbs dry less motors. w/twin 2004 mercury 75 HP two stroke...can ya say "offshore rocket" Ive always been told I would love florida but not humid weather..my claim to fame is I have dragged a boat mores miles than anyone I have ever met..to Alaska and back,,,to Panama and back and 20 something winters in south Baja mexico...I sorta like to fish...btw I like your "suiside"
steering knob...some I rarely sea...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You'd go across the intercoastal (and Lake Okeechobee ) and come out the east coast of Florida (so knock of half those miles). About 3 hours drive time from one coast to the other. Then head straight to the Bahama's.

Key West is about 90 miles due south from here..

Yes the humidity sucks (in the summer), but not as bad as snow.

Year round motorcycle riding, boating and NO shoveling SNOW!

[ChrisJones]

According to my thoughts When mine frooze, I disconnected the link at the cable, tapped it back into the tube with a rubber mallet and wood block and used a 3/8" socket to drive it out from there. I then cleaned the tube like a zhotgun barrell and renewed all grease.justcoachhire.co.uk

[MarshMarlowe]

Well I did this job again yesterday. As I mentioned, the Steering was still tight after the initial cleaning with the shotgun brush. I've been reading that tight steering can over work the helm, causing it to fail/strip prematurely, and my helm is new so I wanted to keep it working properly.

This time, I had a bastard file and a cylinder hone brush. This made a big difference. After I removed the cable and cleaned out the old grease from the tilt tube, I went in and knocked down the corrosion with the file then ran the cylinder hone through the tilt tube several times. There was so much corroded metal and old solidified grease that came out that was left behind with the shotgun brush. I reinstalled the steering cable using Mercury/Quiksilver 2-4C teflon grease. After I buttoned it all back up, I can tell the steering is much easier now. I feel good knowing that the extra stress on the helm is no longer an issue.

I know I said I would be replacing the tilt tube with an S/S aftermarket tube, but after reading what's actually involved in that process, I decided that was outside of my realm. I run the Key West Boats Forum, and my dad posted his experience with removing and replacing a tilt tube. He also posted a nice writeup on his method of repairing frozen steering. He was an outboard mechanic for 20 years, so he's got a lot of experience. Here it is for anyone that might be interested:

Steering cable freezing up. : Engines, Electronics, and Hydraulics

I've replaced a tilt tube. It can be a pain in the butt. The problem is that normally the tilt tube needs to be replaced because it's corroded and rusted. The engine that it's in is also corroded, and the tube is frozen beyond description in those aluminum brackets. Expect to get the big hammer and the torch to get it out, and then expect to replace the bushings. You're going to destroy them getting it out. Once everything is cleaned up the challenge is getting everything lined up so the new tube can slide back in. If it gets a bit out of alignment you can easily break that new bushing. Been there. I imagine it would help to have another set of hands holding it for you, but I can only imagine that part. I was usually on my own and the engine was swinging from a hoist.

One of the dealers on the forum linked a tool specifically designed for reaming tilt tubes. A little pricey, but nothing like the right tool for the job:

Tilt Tube Reamer / Cleaner - 1-986-600


And here's a picture of all the fun I was having yesterday in 100° heat

[zenoahphobic]

Stainless cable?

Sorry coming in late.
Not libelling Teleflex or Yamaha, but it would be nice if there was a stainless steel tilt tube, and stainless steel cable inside steering cables.
Something can be said about a product that has nice shiny stainless steel visibly outside, but plain steel inside where it can't be seen.
Same goes for nice exterior coatings on the outside but very little on the inside.
Surely the branding as "marine" demands better corrosion protection for a product to be truly for "marine" use!

[zenoahphobic]

NEw

And before anyone might suggest what caused me to write, is that I have replaced a few cables.
The last was about a year ago, where I thoroughly cleaned out the corrosion of the inside of the tilt tube, thoroughly greased it and put in a brand new cable. The engine turned beautifully without resistance.
The boat has been shedded since and has not seen any water (rain or afloat). Guess what , I can't turn the thing, seized up from what corrosion cause? one year of atmospheric water?
Can't tell if it is the tilt tube, or whether it is at the beginning of the cable (which I have found to be the case in the past). UGH!