Need some help with new to me 1995 P50TLRT

[99yam40]

Thanks - the needle is not broken off sticking down into the hole. It is completely gone, so I have to assume someone took it out knowingly, either thinking it was not necessary, or perhaps they would switch enrichment to "OFF" after starting the motor.

What I am not quite sure if I can test basic functionality of the motor with the emergency fuel enrichment shut off valve set to OFF, or if still needs the needle present to block the extra fuel flow. I think it should work as intended to stop the extra flow of fuel.... I guess I have to give it a try. I can clean all of the plugs and set it to off right after starting the motor.

Here is what I believe to be the correct part number - not cheap but if this is the only major set back I would be fine with that.
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63D-14380-00-00

yes turning the red lever to off will stop all enrichment fuel, even with that needle missing

[95Whaler]

yes turning the red lever to off will stop all enrichment fuel, even with that needle missing

Thanks! I'm going to give it a try. Hopefully this is my "smoking gun" or shall I say smoking motor ha ha ha!

[95Whaler]

Any thoughts as to whether it is fine to run full synthetic 2 stroke oil in this motor as long as it is TC-w3? Trying to have it be as tolerable for my wife as possible in terms of smoke, smell etc. I don't mind paying for it, because a gallon will probably take a very long time to go through.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did it get better with the lever switched???

Are you running straight fuel now?

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[95Whaler]

I haven't gotten there just yet, just thinking ahead. It snowed 6" in the last 2 days (ugh!) but it's all going to melt soon so I'll have some more good testing weather. It is actually going to be 60F this sunday... so if I am feeling adventurous I could do a water test.

Next steps will be to run the injection system test procedure, just because the previous owner had some idea it might not be working, and then put in good gasoline and test the emergency fuel enrichment set to OFF immediately after start up with clean plugs. Assuming that seems to idle well and fire on all cylinders , etc. I'll order the replacement plunger part.

In the meantime I am waiting for the new water/fuel filter, tool for new lower unit gear fluid and cleaning up some of the wiring with new water proof connections.

I have a new water pump kit to install also.

So new fuel filter, new fuel, new plugs, new lower gear unit fluid and new water impeller, and taking care of some wiring I don't love... not sure if I am missing anything obvious for right now.

[boscoe99]

100% synthetic is just fine. Many here in the US use Pennzoil as a preference over Yamalube. Which has been known to smoke and foul some (not all) models.

Make sure that the oil pump is connected to the throttle and that it is set correctly.

[95Whaler]

Sounds good, thanks. The linkage to the oil pump looks good. I'm not actually thinking the oil pump isn't working, but seems worth testing because I know the previous owner was fiddling with it. The oil pump tank return line was disconnected when I received the boat...

[95Whaler]

Is this expected... chunk of metal almost looks like it is missing on the middle carb oil injection thing? It seems like too haphazard to be on purpose, but maybe just weird casting?

50569358918_eb9dd9bbc5_b.jpg

Top carb for reference:
50570241657_cb4ea01b25_b.jpg

[95Whaler]

Oil injection is working as expected, but the little white plastic linkage connecting to the oil pump is cracked.. it's not broken yet and still doing it's job. I think I need this thing... 15 bucks huh!!! https://www.boats.net/product/yamaha/6H1-41237-00-00

I still haven't tested with regular fuel in there, but with the emergency fuel enrichment fully closed, I'm not really seeing any better results. I have no idea but maybe the fuel in there is so oil rich that it is bogging down the motor.

[95Whaler]

Would you guys be able to tell me how to properly set the oil injection pump since I'll be replacing that little white plastic piece? Do I set it so that the oil pump is WOT when the throttle is at WOT?

[95Whaler]

I put good fuel in it. I took apart and cleaned the carbs again.

I found the float height on the middle and bottom cylinders to be off so that when the float was "sunk" it wasn't really getting a good fuel flow. I adjusted and tested by applying vacuum to the fuel barb on the carb with the float hanging down and saw that the vacuum bled off quickly and easily when i turned the carb the other way.

I put it all back together and ran it with water muffs in neutral. It starts very easily and idles OK but seems that cyl #2 isn't really running . Both the top and middle cylinder will idle by themselves with the other spark plugs unplugged but #2 will not start this way.

I tried swapping plugs around and it didn't help. #2 is getting spark by the way.

I am wondering if the prime start system could be causing problems with cylinder #2.. I noticed that when i applied a little bit of pressure to the prime start fuel hoses with the emergency enrichment lever set to "OFF" that a little bit of air went through where the solenoid normally sits. It is not a lot, but it's some. It's not clear to me what implications this would have though. I honestly don't think there is enough vacuum to cause any real issues, given how little gets through but???

Should I try capping off of the hose barbs related to the prime start system on the carb and intake manifold to see if this helps?

Any other ideas??? I was hoping to get out this weekend, it is going to be 60F (it snowed earlier in the week!)!.

by the way I found the plunger... and a cotter pin and a washer in the engine tray .50574121577_9c345d315f_b.jpg

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the prime start solenoid is clearly broken off/ not correctly working, I'd replace that first..


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[95Whaler]

I'd love to see it run normally before spending $200 on prime start plunger just because in theory it should run normally once started with the emergency lever set to OFF so I feel like I am missing something either obvious or not so much. In theory the plunger is roughly doing the same thing as moving the emergency enrichment lever from ON to OFF.

[99yam40]

from what I understand the on position pumps fuel into all 3 intakes,
in the auto position it just sucks fuel and air mixture into all 3 crankcases/intakes
if one cylinder is not hitting like it should, you need to find out why
compression, spark, timing, or fuel to air mixture

can you thread that needle back onto the shaft?
not sure where to adjust it to tho

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the net (which as I re-call via Rodbolt) is correct (not his post). I bolded the important part.
IE, I'm reading that if the tip of the Prime Start is broke off, it can't close off.



The prime start device works like this, there is a small fuel pump on the center carb, (where the manual enrichment is, small red valve) When the engine is cold, the needle valve on the electro thermal valve (the white thing with the blue and black wires in it mounted on the middle carb) is retracted, this opens up a passageway and allows fuel from the small pump to be sent down a hose to the intake manifold, as the motor runs, voltage from the battery charging coils in the stator,warms a wax pellet in the electro thermal device and this pushes the needle valve slowly to it's seat cutting off the extra fuel.

The device can be tested, it is held onto the center carb by two phillips head screws, remove the screws and pull it up and out of the carb, leave the ground wire connected to the block, measure from the body of the device to the end of the needle valve, disconnect the blue wire from the green wire near the rectifier regulator, touch the blue wire to a 12 volt source like the battery positive post at the starter solenoid, it will not spark, hold it there a few minutes, then measure the needle valve again, if it has moved out and your measurement is longer then the valve is working.

In this case I would say that the carbs were not done correctly, they probably did not remove the valve to see if it was stuck or bad, as far as it creating a fire? I doubt it, never heard or seen that. If the engine will not start by just turning the key and you have to use manual enrichment then the valve may be stuck closed or the fuel passageway is clogged.



*Just read you found the plunger, did you install it?

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