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  • Motor not charging battery

    How do you test the stator on a P200 TLRW, the voltage regulator tested good. Is there a fuse is the charging wiring?

  • #2
    You measure the output voltage from the lighting coil.

    How did you verify that the rectifier/regulator is working properly?

    Usually if the R/R output tests good that means the lighting coil input is good.

    If the R/R output tests is not to specification then one would test the lighting coil to see if it means its specification or not.

    There is no fuse between the lighting coil and the R/R.

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    • #3
      Outboard Motor not charging battery

      the Stator and Rectifier / Regulator both test good.

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      • #4
        I suggest checking and cleaning every connection. A volt test doesn't capture a corroded connection that isn't carrying the service current. If that's the issue it's a cheap fix. If not, it will help find the culprit. You don't want to find a cheap fix after the marina replaces half the system at msrp.

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        • #5
          What did you test the lighting coil , and RR with and what readings did you get?
          Not sure if you are calling the lighting coil the stater or some of the other coils under there
          Saying they tested good does not mean they were tested with proper test equipment and tested properly , so we have a hard time figuring that out from this side of the screen unless you give the info

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          • #6
            Motor not charging the battery

            I tested the R/R using a Fluke multi-meter on the diode function, found: OL-OL-OL, 482-483-485, OL-OL-OL, 486-475-453. The Stator (coil) was tested using the ohm function on the multi-meter, found: 0.7, 0.7 & 0.8 ohms & each lead to ground showed OL and then checked the voltage output, found: 32, 31, 32 VAC at idle.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by RocketEd View Post
              I tested the R/R using a Fluke multi-meter on the diode function, found: OL-OL-OL, 482-483-485, OL-OL-OL, 486-475-453. The Stator (coil) was tested using the ohm function on the multi-meter, found: 0.7, 0.7 & 0.8 ohms & each lead to ground showed OL and then checked the voltage output, found: 32, 31, 32 VAC at idle.
              What is the DC voltage output from the R/R? Where are you checking the output voltage from the R/R?

              By the way, there is a fuse between the R/R and the battery. Does that fuse check good? Maybe I confused you with my original answer. I thought you were asking about a fuse to the R/R. There is a red wire coming from the R/R. It connects to another red wire. The fuse is in the second red wire.

              The manual calls for a peak voltage output test from the lighting coils (green leads) at cranking RPM, 1500 RPM and 3500 RPM. Did you use a peak voltage adapter on your Fluke meter?

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              • #8
                This is why I asked about the testing.
                Ohms may be OK for testing some things, but I prefer voltage tests and you need the proper test equipment to do the tests in the manual to compare to the specs,
                DVA adapter and your regular meter set to DC is what the manual calls for if you do not have the correct peak reading meter made for these ignition systems

                A it was said if you have the proper voltage out of coil and out of RR but not at battery then wiring , fuse, or connections between them is the place to look.
                Last edited by 99yam40; 03-28-2015, 03:28 PM.

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