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Low oil alarm on starboard engine goes off last weekend. I get home to find engine reservoir at low level, tried the emergecy switch (doesn't work) top it off with a quart of oil alarm goes off. I siphoned some oil out of port engine reservoir (just so I understand how a working system works) try emergency switch and oil transfers to full line. I pulled both boat reservoirs out and drain tanks (nice and clean) filters are clean pumps on the other hand were rusted and corroded but port oil pump still worked when using emergency switch. Ordered two brand new pumps and filters reinstalled reservoirs, oil lines, oil pumps, filters, reconnected pumps to SWB and refilled tanks. When I turned on the battery switches for port and starboard engines I heard the oil pumps run for about 10 seconds and then shut off (this is before I even put the keys in the ignition). Put keys in ignition ALL three bars are solid (not flashing or missing ALL SOLID) start starboard engine and allow to run for 5-10 mins (way past the normal 180 second fill up) and no oil transfer. Run the port engine for 5-10mins (which worked fine before just decided to replace both filters and pumps while I had everything out) and now no oil transfer for port engine either! Both engines tachs show solid 3 bars. I was thinking that it might be air in the oil lines taking even longer for pump to push through oil lines and make it to the engine?, but the pumps are not even turning on now. I can only assume that I have a electrical issue which to be honest I don't have much of any knowledge. Hopefully someone can help me out here. I'm leaving for a Duck Key in 4 weeks and either I will be able to figure it out with some guidance or I hate to admit it pay someone to figure it out for me. Thank you in advance.
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A service manual and the proper testing knowledge will get you to where you need to go.
Need to know if you are getting 12v + to the pump motors. if not find out why.
If there is + then follow the Negative through the circuit.
I am fairly sure the e switch just bypasses the control module and completes the ground for the motor to run. If that does not work then it has to be a problem wih the + or the ground that the e switch usesLast edited by 99yam40; 03-26-2015, 06:08 PM. -
Neither pumps have 12v at the brown wire connection that leads to the oil level gauge assembly. I did find 12v on both harness's that plug into the oil level gauge assembly. Does this mean they are both bad? What else am I missing?Comment
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The source was a grounding stud that had other grounded wires attached to it also. When I found 12v it was on the brown wire, blue harness four wire plug that connects to the boat reservoir oil level gauge assembly. Do I need to go back and find the yellow wire?Comment
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Rather than fool around, do a search on here by Rodbolt, he has covered this in great detail a thousand times.Comment
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how about a quick test,drain the engine oil tank.
turn on the key.
observe the tach and the audible.
what happens?Comment
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Sorry for not responding sooner had a family emergency that had me out of state.
To Bosco99's response...
Port and Starboard engine's at the yellow wire coming out of the CDI read 12v+ while grounded to the starter's grounding stud. Hooked power and ground directly to both port and starboard oil pumps in boat reservoirs and pumps run. I honestly do not understand exactly how, when and where the ground is applied to complete the circuit for the pump to run.
To Rodbolt17's response...
Port and Starboard engine reservoirs drained. Turned both key switches on both tachs read... right bar missing, center bar flashing and left bar is solid. Audibles for both switches were 3 short beeps then a constant beep.
Here is some info that I got after using a multimeter....
Readings are at the harness that comes from the motor right before it plugs into the oil level switch (sub-oil tank) while the engine's ARE running.
Port engine:
Brown wire: 13.66v
Black/red wire: 13.11v
Blue wire: .03v Is this correct? I thought it was a ground but had the same reading next to the yellow wire by the CDI.
Black wire: Ohm setting testing resistance .017
Starboard engine:
Brown wire: 14.09v
Black/red wire: 13.23v
Blue wire: .29v? Tested the blue wire next to the yellow wire coming out of the CDI and read .03v
Black wire: Ohm setting testing resistance 0.10
Plugged in port and starboard harness's to their oil level switch in the sub-oil tank and check the brown bullet wire connection right before connecting to pumps and port has 12.5v and starboard has 12.3 v. Checked the blue wire bullet connection and port has .168v and starboard has .112v.
Something that I noticed while performing the testing on both motors was that on a few occasions I had to disconnect and reconnect the harness's that plug into the oil level switches in the sub-oil tanks for the 3 bars to come back on the port tach and also to be able to get 12v out of the bullet connector before connecting to the oil pump on the starboard side. With that being said I think I should order new oil level gauge assemblies being that the harness is wired directly to it. I know some folks would probably repair these connections but being they're 15 years old I'm ok with buying brand new ones. Is this the right path to take or am I STILL missing something? Thanks again for all the help.Comment
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the easter bunny is still weeks away.
your splatter gunning.
quit.
do a bit of reading then do some testing.
did you ever actually simply drain the engine oil tank and observe the tach?Comment
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Just thought I would see if Rodbolt missed this part of his postOriginally posted by Knot Stressin' View PostComment
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