How to Install Fuel Quick Connect on 150

[tperk100]

I would like to install a fuel quick Connect / Disconnect on my 1997 S150 so that I have the option of running from either my on board tank or a "portable" tank. I am not sure what the best way of doing this would be so would like some advice.

I had a 150 Merc once upon a time where the connector was built into the lower casing (lower cowling?), but see no provision for that here (pic attached). The blue hose is just a washdown.

Will appreciate any help with how to and what parts to use.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Something like this?: https://www.ebay.com/itm/quick-relea...UAAOSwJ71abfN1

Un-less your swapping the tank often, I would simply loosen / un-do (before the primer bulb) and hook up to the portable tank (you still have the primer bulb installed to prime the system).



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[tperk100]

What's motivating me to do this is that my engine seems fuel starved when I goose it. (It hesitates ) Maybe I have a collapsed fuel line. My bulb is new so maybe your idea is not only a practical one but an inexpensive one too. I might replace the line from the bulb to the engine mounted filter (its new also) and from the filter to the pumps, connect another tank to the bulb and see what happens when I goose it.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've found the less connections, the less chance for leaks.

IE, just hook your portable tank, with a primer bulb, straight to the engine.. It's not like you have numerous tanks your swapping out daily..

If not already done, check the under cowl fuel filter for any crap...

I have had fuel line INTERNALLY, break down and turn to a "mush like/spaghetti" substance between the primer bulb and under cowl filter. Just happened to see it doing regular maintenance...

Lastly, I'd drain the carbs(should be a drain screw for each bowl) and catch what comes out. Look specifically for any crap, water, etc. Prime the bulb if necessary till you get clean fuel coming out..


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[tperk100]

After sitting last winter the rig was not starting or running hardly at all. I drained all gas and rebuilt the carbs. It started and revved up like a champ with no load (in my 50 gal drum), but hesitated when goosing on the water. I already hooked a 5 gal gas tank to the engine mounted (under cowl) fuel filter (which is new) but it made no noticeable difference. I had to run the engine with the cowling removed. The only other gas line to eliminate is the one from the filter to the pumps. I plan on doing this and running again with a portable tank, eliminating the entire on board fuel system. If no luck here, I will wait until after season and remove and clean carbs again. Engine is perfectly usable....just hesitates with full throttle.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It does sound like a little bit of crap still in the carbs..

I'd suggest running a "shock" amount of Yamaha's RingFree fuel / top end cleaner. The shock amt is 2oz per gallon (vs 1oz/10 gallons normal operation).

If there's just some crap in there and you have a good amount of fuel moving thru the carb, it may very well get it fixed...


I use it in every machine I own as well as customers (small engines, mowers, chain saws, generators, etc)...

Probably 50% of the time, after the machine sits over night(repaired with RF run thru it and tuned with a tach), I can re-tune and get MORE RPMs W/O doing anything else..


Its really cheap insurance, especially for a carberated engine to keep the innerds clean. It is NOT a fuel stabilizer....


https://www.shopyamaha.com/product/d...?b=Search&d=34

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[99yam40]

if it just hesitated and then picks up RPM, I would think there is not a restriction causing the carbs from running out of fuel, but a plugged passage in carbs. off idle port maybe or idle circuit running too lean and has problems transitioning

[tperk100]

if it just hesitated and then picks up RPM, I would think there is not a restriction causing the carbs from running out of fuel, but a plugged passage in carbs. off idle port maybe or idle circuit running too lean and has problems transitioning

Idle.....I am not a real mechanic. When I did the carbs I set idle screws to manu spec , I think it was 1 1/4 turns. Then I played with them to see if I could get any higher RPM. Got none THAT I COULD HEAR. I was told that Idle settings would not affect WOT. Was I told right or wrong? Should I use a tach and try again with the idle?

BTW, I regularly use Yamaha Ring Free. I will try shocking before removing carbs.

[Keithbaja]

Myself like seafoam much better than Yammy ring free.. I have been using it for 40+ years with great success.. the "trick" is to run it a remote tank with about 5 times what the label says.. like in a cleaning skock treatment. Let it sit over night after running and Jabbing the throttle many times to get in all circuits of carb and injectors. Much, much better that ring free.. Have saved many carb rebuilds with Seafoam.....

[tperk100]

I also regularly use Sea Foam!...but not at shock doses.