Yamaha 703 Remote Differences

[Soundear]

A few years ago, I purchased a 1998 Yamaha C115 TLRW motor with a Hurricane Fundeck 226F. By accident about a year ago, I noticed my ignition key was easy to pull out when in the "on" position with the engine running. Last week, I found my key on the floor of the boat. The key ignition is so worn, the key falls out over the first wave I hit. I also notice it is mandatory to push to choke the motor when starting as a simple turn of the key does not work anymore to crank the engine. In short; it's time for a new ignition switch!. After mentioning it to a friend, he gave me one that looks brand new and is the replacement. Before taking my remote apart to replace the switch, I thought to do a bit of research on Boat.net and at least look at a photo of the part to verify the replacement is correct. I discovered there are 4 different ignition switches; two that are 7 pin and two that are 10 pin. I also found two photos that show different connectors at the rear of the switch. Not taking my remote apart yet, I'm not sure which of the two switches I have. It seems the "New" switch my friend gave me has a large connector and buzzer that may not fit in the remote case; and the "old" switch that I believe I have just has a series of bullet connectors coming from the rear of the switch. I'm not quite sure if I should use the new switch if I discover the old one I need to replace is different. Before I tear my remote apart, I thought to ask a few questions:

* Assuming I have the "Old" style ignition, can the "New" switch be modified to fit and operate correctly?
* Of the four types of 703 Remotes available, how can I tell which version I have?
* How does the "7 Pin" version differ from the "10Pin" version?
* Being I have a 1998 engine with analog meters and not digital meters in my boat, is that a factor marking the difference between a 7 and 10 pin configuration?
* Somewhat related to the ignition switch, I have an issue with my Tach not going beyond 2000RPM before it drops to zero. After verifying both the gauge and rectifier are not the cause, is it possible a faulty
ignition switch could cause my tach to malfunction and stop at a certain RPM reading?

Sorry to ask so many questions but..... how else does one learn?!
Thanks for whatever knowledge anyone can share with me to help!

[boscoe99]

A few years ago, I purchased a 1998 Yamaha C115 TLRW motor with a Hurricane Fundeck 226F. By accident about a year ago, I noticed my ignition key was easy to pull out when in the "on" position with the engine running. Last week, I found my key on the floor of the boat. The key ignition is so worn, the key falls out over the first wave I hit. I also notice it is mandatory to push to choke the motor when starting as a simple turn of the key does not work anymore to crank the engine. In short; it's time for a new ignition switch!. After mentioning it to a friend, he gave me one that looks brand new and is the replacement. Before taking my remote apart to replace the switch, I thought to do a bit of research on Boat.net and at least look at a photo of the part to verify the replacement is correct. I discovered there are 4 different ignition switches; two that are 7 pin and two that are 10 pin. I also found two photos that show different connectors at the rear of the switch. Not taking my remote apart yet, I'm not sure which of the two switches I have. It seems the "New" switch my friend gave me has a large connector and buzzer that may not fit in the remote case; and the "old" switch that I believe I have just has a series of bullet connectors coming from the rear of the switch. I'm not quite sure if I should use the new switch if I discover the old one I need to replace is different. Before I tear my remote apart, I thought to ask a few questions:

* Assuming I have the "Old" style ignition, can the "New" switch be modified to fit and operate correctly? Unknown to me but probably.
* Of the four types of 703 Remotes available, how can I tell which version I have? Inspect the casting for any markings and/or numbers or letters. Compare your 703 housing with parts catalog illustrations to try and see what configuration that you have.
* How does the "7 Pin" version differ from the "10Pin" version? 7 pin is used for motors without trim and tilt. 10 pin is used for motors with trim and tilt.
* Being I have a 1998 engine with analog meters and not digital meters in my boat, is that a factor marking the difference between a 7 and 10 pin configuration? Nope.
* Somewhat related to the ignition switch, I have an issue with my Tach not going beyond 2000RPM before it drops to zero. After verifying both the gauge and rectifier are not the cause, is it possible a faulty
ignition switch could cause my tach to malfunction and stop at a certain RPM reading? Possibly but not likely. Key switch provide battery power and ground to the tachometer. Tachometer signal comes via a green wire in either a 7 pin or 10 pin harness.

Sorry to ask so many questions but..... how else does one learn?!
Thanks for whatever knowledge anyone can share with me to help!

See above.

[Soundear]

Thanks for reviewing my questions and providing some good useful information!! I appreciate your quick response as after work tonight, I'll give the change out a shot!