F100 flywheel removal

[almetelo]

Hi!

Lately my F100 is not charging like was to be...
Before this occurs just after motor start voltage was 14.6 or so at idle, now after start nothing happen and just after a while at 3500 rpm or so (my crusing rev's) voltage raise to 13.6
In fact I havenīt tested the R/R yet because after had a look under the flywheel I can see some signs of rust (little particles on the motor under the flywheel) so I want to clean it even if the problem is not here.

But now I canīt remove the flywheel
Remove the nut was easy... but not even with one person at the flywheel holder and other at the wrench something happen... even after the flywheel/crankshaft area around the thread been soaped in some kind of WD-40 oil
Carefully hammered the puller bolt after tight as I affaraid of damage the crankshaft...

Came to my mind use a heavy duty compressed air impact wrench but I'm affraid damage the crankshaft and/or the puller.

My next step may be use ICE spray to freeze the flywheel (I hope)

Any suggestions?

[DennisG01]

You probably just haven't gotten to the point where it loosens up, yet. I had the same concern about using a gun as you before I removed mine. I asked a local Yamaha tech and he said they use guns all the time. It sure did make pulling that flywheel easy! I had a charging problem, too.

[boscoe99]

Before removing the flywheel I would check the output voltage from the stator. No since removing the flywheel if the stator is working OK. It sounds as if your stator is working correctly but this should be verified or not.

Maybe you have already done this but take a hammer and pound on the top of the puller bolt. Tighten some more then pound again.

After all else fails you just might have to use an impact wrench.

Before reinstalling the flywheel make sure that both the crankshaft taper and the flywheel taper are clean and free of all oil.

[donsmarine]

Before you run the engine, check what battery voltage is. Start engine and check what running voltage is. If its more, its charging, if its the same, it isn't charging. This is a good place to begin. Use a good digital volt meter and you can see it charge easily while speed increases if you leave it connected. Its regulated so it shouldn't go to high. Also alot of electronics,GPS, Depth Sounder, have voltmeter if you check the menu. Now you have more than one if it does.

[robert graham]

Looks like those puller bolts need some flat washers under the hex heads....that freeze spray seems like a good method to try before the brute force of intact wrench....

[Marc Kruse]

I thought I read somewhere not to beat/hammer on the puller or flywheel for fear of loosing up the glued on magnets with that said I've done it plenty of times over the years on all kinds of different motors( points and condenser days)


I need to change my timing belt on my F80 find out the correct way so as not to damage any think also.

Do you have picture of your flywheel holder?

[almetelo]

Hi Guys!

Thanks for your comments.

Later, after work I'll try again and will try to be carefully as possible to avoid serious damage on the motor by forcing to much...

I'm using $1 flywheel holder made by me.
Bought the metal/steel (25X8mm) at a warehouse and the screws and nuts I had at home.
Screws are M10 and I'm using nuts close to the tips of the screws so the screws dont touch/damage the stator (The screws could/should be short)

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Normally that puller is used by getting it tight and smacking the head of the puller (obviously).

I have some reservations smacking only for potential damage to the main bearings.

An air impact gun (or electric impact-standard hand held air gun, same as used on car wheels) would NOT have the impact to the crank and would pop the flywheel off.

Most likely, you won't even need the flywheel holder as the initial shock will pop it off..

I would make sure you have hardened bolts and utilize ALL the threads in the flywheel. Some grease or oil on the puller threads too..

[almetelo]

Hi!

Thanks for your suggestions
After a freezing spray on the crankshaft/flywheel and hit with the hammer at the puller screw head the flywheel released...

Found the under scene






Rust... lots of rust... for sure this isnīt suposed to happen.
Maybe this was the cause, I'll clean stator and flywheel magnets with sandpaper than will test stator with a multimeter than on motor with a DVA but for now just can test it cranking as the boat for now is stored in my basement/garage and I dont need a flood there.

Fortunately I have a spare stator and R/R however I hope I can fix it with a good cleaning.

[99yam40]

did that motor go under in salt water?

[almetelo]

Hi Yam!

No, motor have not been submerged.
However when rains or is high humidity if I remove the hood I can see some humidity/condensation on the motor and in fact I can't remember seen that on my 30x3 or F4

Maybe is that the cause IDK

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With as much corrosion as you have on those 3 mounting screws, I would definitly pull the stator and clean the block under there. Replace those screws as well.

Putting some battery terminal grease or dilectric grease in those corrosion prone areas should help slowing / stopping further corrosion..

Is that brown "dust" sitting atop the engine just knocked off the stator from you pulling it or has the stator been "friends" with the flywheel?

[almetelo]

With as much corrosion as you have on those 3 mounting screws, I would definitly pull the stator and clean the block under there. Replace those screws as well.

Hi Scott!

Thats exactely what I plan to do.

Grease some points with dilectric grease is a nice tip.

Thanks

[DennisG01]

For future use, once you get this sorted out... Boeshield T9 is a fantastic spray to use on the engine. WD40 (and other similar products) doesn't hold a candle to Boeshield.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

For future use, once you get this sorted out... Boeshield T9 is a fantastic spray to use on the engine. WD40 (and other similar products) doesn't hold a candle to Boeshield.

I use LPS2; http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561 which was recommended by my Yamaha dealer...

I don't believe it has any petroleum distilliates (like some other products) which isn't good for rubber parts, etc..

I can safely say, my engine looks literally brand new (under the cowl). I may spray it twice a year, tops..