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Yamaha 115 4 stroke

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  • Yamaha 115 4 stroke

    I need to check my prop for fishing line as I pulled a piece out from the propeller. My boat is on a boat lift so getting to the prop will not be easy. I need to know the prop nut wrench size and cotter pin size so I can order the proper parts and save a long trip to the hardware store. Please give specific information as I do not have sockets nearly that large and this info is nowhere to be found in the users manual.

    Thanks

  • #2
    The nut is a size 27mm. A 1 and 1/16th socket will fit.

    The specific part number for ordering the cotter pin is 91490-40030-00.

    91490-40030-00 YAMAHA PIN,COTTER

    I reuse my cotter pins if they are in good condition but that is just me. If I don't bend the pin so much it is easier to remove and stays reusable. Some folks use cowl pins for ease of removal.
    Last edited by boscoe99; 02-01-2015, 10:14 AM.

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    • #3
      To get to your prop - borrow somebody else's boat for an hour or so, pull the front of theirs under yours, tie off as necessary and work away...give them a beer or two while they wait!!..you can use the trim button on the motor to raise lower your motor as needed......this way if you drop anything it lands on the front of their boat, not in the water. We do this all the time down on da bayou in SE Louisiana!

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      • #4
        Magnets attract ferrous metals but damn if water won't attract all metals. With much more power than any magnet can.

        Just use any tool over water or have any parts anywhere near water and watch what happens.

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        • #5
          Try working inside a large transformer with wrenches tied off to your wrists
          One small metal washer will cause you to cut the top off and pull the core/windings to find that thing

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          • #6
            hahahaaha the ole boat under the skeg trick.
            usually the tool will take an odd hop that defies ALL laws of physics to miss said boat and land in the water.
            OR I will make a swipe at said errant tool and knock it overboard.

            and usually its something made of stainless or zinc.

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            • #7
              In any situation with having tools over the water, I'll literally tape them to a string and tie off to the boat or my wrist.

              Doesn't help with parts but if under the cowl, a decent sized rag, laid out where your working, helps when you loose that part/nut/bolt, from dropping down into the abiss(never to be seen again)...

              Had a large screw driver fall into the canal last week. At least it was low tide and the water clear but it still blended in nicely with the bottom.

              Once fished out, (large magnet on a string), it got painted bright WHITE..(it stays on the lift for popping access hatches, etc).
              Scott
              1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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              • #8
                We have 2 boats in the slips at our camp on "da bayou" -- Mine with the F90 and my brother with the F115. We don't have a launch and it is a PITA to bring trailers down.
                The "boat under the skeg" as Rodbolt referred to is best and easiest method! I've done oil/filter change, lower unit oil change, Dropped lower unit and changed impeller....
                For oil changes I use this "Tilt-n-drain" gizmo and haven't spilled a drop of oil...and by the grace of God haven't sacrificed any parts/tools to the swamp!
                The camp is on a "no wake zone" and the bayou is skinny enough to where waves aren't a problem......

                I used to work on F-4's and F-15's -- nothing worse than being on the top side of the aircraft and dropping a washer.....plinkity, plink, plink, plinkity....followed by some choice F-bombs. Now the aircraft is grounded till you find the damn thing!!! Urrgghhh.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by TownsendsFJR1300 View Post
                  In any situation with having tools over the water, I'll literally tape them to a string and tie off to the boat or my wrist.

                  Doesn't help with parts but if under the cowl, a decent sized rag, laid out where your working, helps when you loose that part/nut/bolt, from dropping down into the abiss(never to be seen again)...

                  Had a large screw driver fall into the canal last week. At least it was low tide and the water clear but it still blended in nicely with the bottom.

                  Once fished out, (large magnet on a string), it got painted bright WHITE..(it stays on the lift for popping access hatches, etc).

                  Many many years ago I was standing in the water at a boat ramp trying to check to make sure all 3 plugs were getting spark on a 65 hp jhonnyrude with a screw driver in one plug wire holding it close to block. I have no idea where exactly that screwdriver went, but I think it went halfway across the river. I believe the spark plug cap leaked . Never tried that again

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                  • #10
                    LOL, too funny..


                    A couple of months ago, my old "dock float" was found to VERY water soaked and slowly sinking with time.

                    I ended up using pretty much using JUST the styrofoam and building from scratch, a smaller version.

                    4' x 8', 2" x 8" sides, 3/4" plywood deck, (not marine grade but PT'ed) with .5" PVC edging (to help prevent water rot and tools, etc from sliding off), cleats on all 4 corners.

                    Not quite as stable as the old, larger one(that weighed easily 4 times as much with the soaked wood), but works for changing the LU oil, working on the lift, etc. It doesn't stay in the canal like the old one did. Easy enough to drop in the water (and NOT loose)..


                    Last edited by TownsendsFJR1300; 02-02-2015, 01:52 PM.
                    Scott
                    1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                    • #11
                      I have seen the foam blocks get tunneled out by marine organisms and loose buoyancy. The floating cabin started listing badly.
                      they wrapped the new ones with something to help preserve them

                      old ones Had little stone crabs crawl out days after being put on dry land

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 99yam40 View Post
                        I have seen the foam blocks get tunneled out by marine organisms and loose buoyancy. The floating cabin started listing badly.
                        they wrapped the new ones with something to help preserve them
                        old ones Had little stone crabs crawl out days after being put on dry land
                        That's EXACTLY what I had (if you look close at the bottom of the float you can see the tunnels), listing too.

                        It took at least 3 days on dry land for all the foam to dry out and crabs, etc to vacate... Added 4" of foam (2" thick, 4x8 sheets) inside the frame, above what's showing..
                        Scott
                        1997 Angler 204, Center Console powered by a 2006 Yamaha F150TXR

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                        • #13
                          Why not just swim out the back on a boogie board? or use a couple of swim rings

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                          • #14
                            I found some of the cotter pins on Ebay. I plan on backing up the boat to the dock on high tide and then raising the lift enough to hold the boat in place. Motor will be trimmed up enough to clear dock and will pin down with trim tilt with board or tarp underneath.

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