Electric oil pump?

[DennisG01]

I work part-time (I do light mechanical stuff - nothing as in-depth or training-sensitive as Rodbolt) at a Marina and we have something similar to what Rodbolt is talking about, although I think our tank is about 30 gallons It's WONDERFUL to use that (and spoils me for when I'm doing work on the side!). But, yeah, it's not exactly something you'd have for 'around the house'. For my side work, I bought a 2-gallon MityVac unit. Same basic principle as what you currently own, but this one actually works well.

But, I digress - you've got something already figured out. The main reason I wanted to chime in was about putting a hose OVER the dipstick tube inside of sticking a little coffee-straw INTO the tube. This is the only I (and our shop) do it. I'm not yet familiar with the Yamaha 4-strokes (we see primarily stern drives and 2-strokes), but with stern drives the dipstick tube goes extremely close to the bottom of the oil pan. It's a much more convenient (faster) way to suck out the oil. As long as your dipstick tube is long enough, you could consider doing the same. If it was a Mercruiser I could tell you that you'd need a 3/8" ID hose - usually fits snug enough that I don't even need a hose clamp - although I do keep one of the hose, just in case.

[boscoe99]

Good point Dennis.

The F150 like all Yams has a tube that runs to the bottom of the oil pan. Much more efficient to use that tube to suck oil out as opposed to some systems that might have a smaller tube that goes down into the dipstick tube.

Whatever pump is used just have a hose that fits snugly around the top of the dipstick tube. Turn on the pump and let it do its job. I like the HD type pump just because it is small, cheap and so damn fast.

[DennisG01]

I definitely prefer the "flip a switch" approach compared to "pumping". The only reason I went with a pump-it approach was that there are times when I don't have access to batteries and I don't want to carry a battery pack with me as it's "just one more thing" I need to have when doing side work (like winterizations). If I always had access to 12V, I probably would of bought one of these 17850 Series DIY Oil Change System > Oil Change Systems > Xylem Flow Control - Let's Solve Water. It seems like this is pretty much what you are assembling, but at a substantial cost savings. Nice! If you hadn't thought of it already, maybe attach your pump to your bucket lid like that one?

Now... if you had an inboard engine... these are pretty slick (Reverso is another major brand). They get permanently mounted in the engine room: 17820 Series 17820 Oil Changer System > Diesel & Oil Transfer Systems > Xylem Flow Control - Let's Solve Water.

[99yam40]

Saw a lithium jump start/ power supply type of device at Lowes the other day. They are making those things small for the power available out of them now a days. Sure would beat carrying around a heavy battery

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Interestng and thanks for jumping in.

Perhaps thats why(the smaller tube) it took so long (but it did come with the unit).

Question, I understand hooking up directly to the dip stick, obviously a much larger ID to suck thru, BUT, will it suck as much oil down as the small "go inside the dip stick tube"?

IE, if the Yamaha dip stick tube does NOT go all the way to the bottom of the crankcase, more OLD, oil would left behind (and you'd start sucking air sooner)...

Can anyone address that?

BTW, I do have some commercial grade brake bleeding/vac Mity Vac tools, didn't think about them (duh), obviously, way more expensive..

With the electric (drill powered pump), obviously running it thru the smaller tube would take longer but certainly no biggin, a couple of minutes tops, (and the pumps doing the work, I don't have to manually pump this thing)..

Perhaps, sucking thru the DIP STICK itself first, THEN using the smaller ID hose to finish up..

**I just want to get as much of the old oil (as if draining with the drain bolt)


**And BTW, the ID hose I have set up right now, (for the drill pump), is 3/8" hose(its actually washer machine hose that has two female hose ends I cut into two pieces, one for sucking, one for pumping into my "old oil tank". The drill pump would/will go inbetween the two hose pieces.

[boscoe99]

The dipstick tube goes right to the bottom of the oil pan.

I did a test and first vacuumed the oil out. I then removed the drain plug. If another ounce came out I would be surprised.

There will be more oil clinging to parts of the motor than there will be left in the oil pan after using the suction method to get it out. Particularly if care is not taken to trim the motor up about half way for five minutes or so before lowering it to remove the oil.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The dipstick tube goes right to the bottom of the oil pan.

I did a test and first vacuumed the oil out. I then removed the drain plug. If another ounce came out I would be surprised.

There will be more oil clinging to parts of the motor than there will be left in the oil pan after using the suction method to get it out. Particularly if care is not taken to trim the motor up about half way for five minutes or so before lowering it to remove the oil.

Excellent info, thanks...

[99yam40]

You can always test it yourself by sucking what is left out with the small tube after pulling it out of the dip tube just to make sure what is left in there

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can always test it yourself by sucking what is left out with the small tube after pulling it out of the dip tube just to make sure what is left in there

Yepper, I think I'll do that just for S&G's.

I'm not due for a change for a couple of months but I have about 2.5 quarts of old oil (in a 5 gallon container) I can test and see how quick that smaller hose pumps.

Boscoe, (or anyone else) you mentioned tilting the engine, etc.. I've always (for the F150) drained by the drain plug. I have always just had the engine trimmed fully down (drain plug at the lowest point).

Is there more old oil to be found tilting the engine (after the initial drain/suck)?

[Marc Kruse]

Interestng and thanks for jumping in.

Perhaps thats why(the smaller tube) it took so long (but it did come with the unit).

Question, I understand hooking up directly to the dip stick, obviously a much larger ID to suck thru, BUT, will it suck as much oil down as the small "go inside the dip stick tube"?

IE, if the Yamaha dip stick tube does NOT go all the way to the bottom of the crankcase, more OLD, oil would left behind (and you'd start sucking air sooner)...

Can anyone address that?

BTW, I do have some commercial grade brake bleeding/vac Mity Vac tools, didn't think about them (duh), obviously, way more expensive..

With the electric (drill powered pump), obviously running it thru the smaller tube would take longer but certainly no biggin, a couple of minutes tops, (and the pumps doing the work, I don't have to manually pump this thing)..

Perhaps, sucking thru the DIP STICK itself first, THEN using the smaller ID hose to finish up..

**I just want to get as much of the old oil (as if draining with the drain bolt)


**And BTW, the ID hose I have set up right now, (for the drill pump), is 3/8" hose(its actually washer machine hose that has two female hose ends I cut into two pieces, one for sucking, one for pumping into my "old oil tank". The drill pump would/will go inbetween the two hose pieces.

I knew there was reason I didn't throw those old washing machine hoses away when I changed them out. Thanks for the tip.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I knew there was reason I didn't throw those old washing machine hoses away when I changed them out. Thanks for the tip.

Yepper.

When I changed out to SS (for the clothes washer) I figured they'd come in handy for something.

Another handy tip with one of those hoses, a LU, pitot hole cleaner!;

http://www.yamahaoutboardparts.com/f...g-th23159.html

Hook to your garden hose, put the "V" cut atop the LU, pitot hole and flush out the salt water/debris. (I attach that hose to a nozzle so I can turn on and off the water for full pressure).

The speedometer (water/air pressure operated) will read about about 17 MPH with the air compressor turned on, flushing out ALL the water you just squirted in (and whatevers left in the line).

Its part of my regular wash down after coming in (brackish, salt water)

The first time I pumped air from the center console shrader valve out the pitot tube, I got probably 3/4 a cup of salt water which had remained in the line about mid ship..



The speedometer has never been more accurate (reads down to 4 MPH).

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, got the electric drill powered pump today ( Milescraft 1314 Drill Pump 750-13140103 - The Home Depot ) and played some in the garage with it.. It came with a blob of grease inside the pump and is EXTREMLY TIGHT. I poured some oil into it and FINALLY was able to turn it over with a vise grip, then a drill motor.. .It is noted on the pump to prime first for longevity.

Using the smaller tube(that came with my oil tank), that would go down INSIDE the dipstick, sucking is almost nill... .

I then used my 3/8" ID, washer hose (with a regular, female hose end attached to the pump), dipped into a 5 gallon container with 3.5 gallons of used oil. With this hose, it emptied the 3.5 quarts in maybe 45 seconds, (easily 10 times faster). Now we're talking...

I later, did try slipping the 3/8" ID hose over the F150 dip stick tube, a little tight going on but fit good. I later beveled the edge of the hose to make it easier to slip onto the dip stick tube(so I wouldn't scrape any rubber hose into the crankcase).

Bottom line, this lil electric pump works great for $13.00.

Thanks for the input all, hope this helps others...

[99yam40]

sounds like you original problem was the small tube, so the pump should work better with out it

[TownsendsFJR1300]

sounds like you original problem was the small tube, so the pump sjould work better with out it

Yea, I thought the same thing AFTER I cleaned up all the spilled oil on the work bench.. I wasn't about to make another mess trying the original hand pump.

Bringing out the cordless drill, and maybe 1.5 minutes of electric pumping, certainly beats pumping that 2.5 gallon receptable up by hand...

Short of sucking a thin ATF fluid thru that small tube, its not really useful...

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A follow up using the electric pump and purchasing a Yamaha oil change kit (F150)...

The electric pump worked very quickly (45 seconds maybe).

Being the oil change kit came with the filter and drain plug gasket, I pulled the drain plug for S&G's and see how much was left in the pan. Exactly 2/3 a cup and of course being at the bottom, was the nastiest.

Several other things, the drain plug gasket (at least in this kit) is NOW solid aluminum and torques down firmly, quickly and easily to 20 ft lbs.

And lastly, the oil change kit comes with FIVE quarts of oil. Having the shop manual, owners manual and changing the oil for the last 8 years, I know it takes 5.5 quarts. That's with start, run for a couple, let drain with the engine tilted slightly forwad (for oil on the casting webs to drain), then trim back to verticle. Oil level with 5.5 quarts puts the level dead smack in the middle of the stick..

**The parts guy looked it up and said, yep, the F150 takes exactly 5 quarts. (that's NOT whats in MY manuals). I already had an extra half quart, used that and have a spare quart now..