225HP 2-Stroke restarting problem

[Robert_FL]

Will check the fuel pumps this week and respond. I found it interesting the top carb had a fuel inlet that you can blow into easily, yet all 3 carbs inlets for fuel I had to put air pressure to see any movement of air through the unattached carb, at least they were consistent, but still concerning the fuel did not flow easily.

Robert

[Robert_FL]

Parts ordered to replace the middle and lower fuel pump, as well as gaskets and diaphragm to rebuild the top fuel pump. From boats.net I Will be checking compression, spark, and the new plugs condition in the next day or 2.

[formula29]

you may want to try running on a portable fuel tank as well, sounds like it's starving for fuel under load, water seperator? anti syphon valve?

[Robert_FL]

I checked compression in all cylinders, all were about 110-115.
The spark is there in all cylinders, but looked weak. I installed 2 new Fuel Pumps on the unit. The primer ball goes hard in 3 pumps just fine, before it took many pumps. Started at the house on the hose, ran fine as usual. Took it to the ramp and ran the motor. Stalled 4 times on starting, then ran for a bit. I attempted to get past the 1200RPM stalling mark, it stalled. I then was able to reattempt with a quick throttle move forward and it ran into higher RPM's fine. The batteries seemed low, as the LED deck lights were dimming on startup. I am going to charge the batteries full and retry, thinking it is a weak spark.

[Robert_FL]

Update: I charged both newer batteries ( less than 1 year ) they needed the boost. I took all spark plugs out and cleaned very well (soaked/brushed/sanded etc) and set the gap to spec. I adjusted the pilot screw to be on the leaner side of spec. 1.25 turns open. Took the boat to the dock to run. Primed the fuel with a 1/2 a pump ( those new fuel pumps sealed the system keeping prime - must have had a leak ). The engine started then stalled after 6 seconds. Did this 2-3 times, then continued to run. Ran smoother at idle but lower idle than I like, I like a higher idle. Set the idle to 8-900RPM out of gear and 600RPM in gear. Goes through the RPM range just fine. I did not take out on the water, but will next weekend. So, looks like this problem was bad fuel pumps, fouled plugs, and low charged batteries. Will follow up to confirm all is well on next trip.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Tks for the update.. Sounds like you about got it figured out..

Just curious, did you ever check the charging voltage at the batteries with the engine running?

[Robert_FL]

One battery is a few years old on the shelf, and the other is brand new best battery I could buy AGM large capacity, 6 months old. The voltage meter shows 16V at the meter on the console, which I think has the Alternator voltage in it too not sure.
I never checked the battery with a volt meter directly, at rest or while engine running. The dimming LED deck lights upon startup was the tell for me the batteries needed a charge.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

One battery is a few years old on the shelf, and the other is brand new best battery I could buy AGM large capacity, 6 months old. The voltage meter shows 16V at the meter on the console, which I think has the Alternator voltage in it too not sure.
I never checked the battery with a volt meter directly, at rest or while engine running. The dimming LED deck lights upon startup was the tell for me the batteries needed a charge.

It shouldn't be showing 16 volts, that's bit too high. Normal charging volts is around 14 volts or so. A fully charged battery, just sitting is about 12.8 volts.

I'm not as concerned about the batteries as I am the charging system. If its over charging, it can be frying/cooking your batteries or if NOT charging enough, your running off the batteries until the voltage is too low and not enough juice to operate the engine.. The standard, wet cell battery, is still about the safest /standard OB battery to my knowledge...

Re-charging the battery(s) and getting substantial gains in performance would lead me to at least check the charging voltage at the battery.

The system obviously has to put voltage BACK into the battery as it runs, same as your car..

Also, there (per Rodbolt) are certain batteries you cannot/shouldn't use for certain Yamaha OB engines.. As I re-call, an AGM is one of them but I don't know if it applies to your specific engine. You may want to check your owners manual for that...

[Robert_FL]

Just purchased a new Charger that is more advanced than my manual one. It does the Alternator test you mentioned, and a few more charging options and techniques.

Schumacher SC-10030A SpeedCharge 2/12-30/100 Amp Automatic Charger and Maintainer

My old sears 2 or 6 amp manual charger still works, but with the new AGM Deep Cycle battery prices and the fact I plan on charging up before every trip now this new charger looks like the way to go.

Thanks all for the assistance on working on this outboard.

Robert

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just curious if there's any reason you won't check the charging voltage when the engine is running vs possibly just running off the battery?

[Robert_FL]

I will next time I run the boat this weekend.
When I get the charger end of next week it has the Alternator test on it too, I will do that procedure as well.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Please post your findings re the voltage..

[Robert_FL]

Sure thing.

[Robert_FL]

14.2 ish Volts is what the guage meter showed when running the motor.
I left my Voltmeter on all night and it was not working correctly.

Engine ran excellent for the most part, was able to go through all RPM smoothly. Top end was 40MPH at 5200RPM, best I have seen the boat go.

A new question. What causes the stall at low RPM with a kind of spit out the exhaust at startup?

This stops if I give it throttle real quick and get under way, then idle.
But at a start, it tended to idle then stall and spit out the exhaust.

Is it a lean or rich mixture?

Robert

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Voltage sounds good!

Whats the RPM its idleing at once warmed up?